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Discuss Unsure how to stop a leak. in the Plumbing Jobs | The Job-board area at PlumbersForums.net

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Wooloff

I have no plumbing experience and to be honest, I'm pretty useless at DIY.

I've changed the arm fill valve in the cistern and was careful to install it the same way the original was in.

I'm having an issue with the the water leaking from the main pipe where it meets the new part. Do I just need to tighten this brass nut up as much as possible? It took a fair amount of effort to undo but I fear I'm going to break it if I keep trying to do it up any tighter. Is there supposed to be seal in there?

Thanks for any help.

IMG_20170417_174400.jpg
 
You should have a red fibre or rubber o ring this needs replacing each time you replace the fill valve

Be careful you don't overrighten/ cross thread the brass to plastic connection
 
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You need a fibre washer in it mate , when you nip it up it has to be tight but that doesnt mean go mad , just check you didnt cross thread it, looking again the threads look damaged , if you buy another valve make sure you buy one with a brass inlet , loads better
 
Why isn't @townfanjon a TA? Something he said? Lol

Looking through your posts mate i can see you seem to know what you're talking about (said by a guy who doesn't know it must be said).

Leave that one with me. :)
 
If you undo the plastic fill valve nut a bit it will give you some play whilst you do the tap connector up a couple of turns, then re tighton the fill valve before nipping up the T/C.
 
You live and you learn! :)

Many thanks for the help everyone. I'll go grab another valve and some washers tomorrow and have another go.

Thanks again.
 
Why isn't @townfanjon a TA? Something he said? Lol

Looking through your posts mate i can see you seem to know what you're talking about (said by a guy who doesn't know it must be said).

Leave that one with me. :)
TA @Dan , you mean TT , top town fan
 
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Reactions: Dan
You live and you learn! :)

Many thanks for the help everyone. I'll go grab another valve and some washers tomorrow and have another go.

Thanks again.

Seriously go for the brass tailed ones , best one is the fluidmaster, screwfix do them , sorry I dont know how to do the link .
 
Gonna stick my head on the block here.

You do not need to change the fibre washer everytime and a 50p brass tap extension will fit on that plastic stem with a couple of wraps of PTFE giving you a nice new brass face to mate the fibre washer to.
 
or another route if you would like to keep the existing inlet valve 1/2 female iron to 15mm
 
That will take up to much space.

If it's not too much trouble or taking too much of a liberty. Could you link the brass tap extension that would do the job please? I'm really pretty useless with all this. :(
 
Hopefully I'll be able to pick an extension tomorrow and I'll report back with how it went.

Thanks for the tip with the PTFE. I'm literally that clueless, I've never even used PTFE tape before.
 
or you can use a 1/2 rubber washer (not a tapwasher)

inside the brass female iron

Rubber Washer 1/2" - Toolstation

any local place should have something like this
 
Hopefully I'll be able to pick an extension tomorrow and I'll report back with how it went.

Thanks for the tip with the PTFE. I'm literally that clueless, I've never even used PTFE tape before.
No worries, you need around 6 - 8"" and you`ll have a whole reel to play with, just keep it straight like any other tape.
Don`t need scissors to cut it just a finger nail. lol. As moonlight said start with fingers and keep the piece square to the stem.
 
or you can use a 1/2 rubber washer (not a tapwasher)

inside the brass female iron

Rubber Washer 1/2" - Toolstation

any local place should have something like this

At the risk of sounding even more stupid, what part in the iron? Is that the part on the main water pipe or the extension?

And you say "or you can..." What would this be instead of and how come a rubber washer and not a tap one?
 
At the risk of sounding even more stupid, what part in the iron? Is that the part on the main water pipe or the extension?

And you say "or you can..." What would this be instead of and how come a rubber washer and not a tap one?

the bass female iron
brass-compression-female-iron-coupler.jpg


that goes on your inlet valve with either ptfe on the threads or a rubber washer on the inside

and yes bigger hole in the centre

tbh i would change the inlet valve for a brass tail fluidmaster pro much easier in the long run

only stupid question is the one you dont ask
 
Part of me just wants to pay someone to do it, but that's why I've got to my age and being unable to do most DIY jobs. Part of me wants to replace it with a brass valve and another part of me wants to fix the mess I've made of this one :)

If I were to get a new one with a brass tail. What washer/tape would I need for that?
 
Part of me just wants to pay someone to do it, but that's why I've got to my age and being unable to do most DIY jobs. Part of me wants to replace it with a brass valve and another part of me wants to fix the mess I've made of this one :)

If I were to get a new one with a brass tail. What washer/tape would I need for that?

Arctic Products Prestex Tap Connector Washers ½
 
Just a new fibre washer on the fitting you already have, a small amount of jointing compond on the fibre washer will help also. Job done.
 
From the look of the picture the 15mm copper pipe into the bottom of the inlet valve is at an angle. Even though personally I do not fit Toilet inlet valves that do not have a brass shank, before buying a new one I would loosen the nut that holds the valve to the cistern, attach the valve to the 15mm copper making sure the washer inside is in good condition (if not change it) then tighten the nut back onto the cistern. This should work. Dependant on the pressure caused from the angle of the 15mm. Sorry for the long response.:D:D
 
From the look of the picture the 15mm copper pipe into the bottom of the inlet valve is at an angle. Even though personally I do not fit Toilet inlet valves that do not have a brass shank, before buying a new one I would loosen the nut that holds the valve to the cistern, attach the valve to the 15mm copper making sure the washer inside is in good condition (if not change it) then tighten the nut back onto the cistern. This should work. Dependant on the pressure caused from the angle of the 15mm. Sorry for the long response.:D:D

I think it just looks bad in the photo. When it was connected there's no pressure or angle on the pipe, there's actually quite a bit of movement in it. Not sure if that's a good thing or not.
 
As long as it is straight and the washer is good it should seal nicely. But the plastic shanks aren't that great, which is why we all recommend brass shanks. The thread on yours does look a little damaged but if your gentle and don't force it, it should seal.
 
You may be lucky, wrap ptfe around your valve and try to tighten gently.
 
From the look of the picture the 15mm copper pipe into the bottom of the inlet valve is at an angle.

Also noticed the pipe angle but the pipe below the iso valve I think is plastic and the pipe above the valve is White painted copper.
 
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