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The HW tank below must be about 50 perhaps 60 years old. The less than a year-old element appears to have failed (not giving a consistent 20 ohms or thereabouts, in fact the reading on the multi-meter jumps around). The owner tells me the element was installed by an electrician who had quite a bit of trouble dealing with the amount of scale in the bottom of the tank. What is clear is that he did not attempt to remove the access panel, presumably thinking that it could prove very difficult to reseal back in position after changing the element. No doubt there is a gasket of some sort which presumably will disintegrate upon dismantling.

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It might be entirely preferable to replace this steel tank with a more current GRP equivalent but I am off on holiday in a couple of days and am pretty short on time. Also I am not sure I can source this sort of thing very quickly. It is probably going to be bloody heavy anyway. I would replace element with a titanium equivalent.


Would anyone have any views as to the best thing to do here?


1) Replace tank with something more contemporary?


2) What would be the best way to reseal the access panel once the element is replaced? LSX or something similar?


Thanks in advance for any contributions.

 
Thats had its day bud condem it really depend on what it's supplying I would probably put a copper cylinder in temporary till you can get back and strip the old tank out and do a proper job . Cheers kop
 
The immersion heater will come out without removing access door.
However is looks like an essex flange it screws into, you may loosen that when attempting to unscrew immersion heather so act with care.
 
My advice would be to bite the bullet on this one, and fit a new copper cylinder in place of this, let's face it, museum piece. It's done it's time and will not be a serviceable item for very much longer. Time to say tubby byebyes. :p:p
 
Hi guys

Thanks greatly for all of the comments. Sorry for the late reply but I have been way on hols. Despite the best advice given here I simply did not have sufficient time to provide an alternative heating vessel so just cleaned out most of the scale (about 1 bucket full) and popped in a new element.

I will return to provide a full replacement in the spring or summer assuming the new element lasts that long. Just a couple of questions in the meantime:

1) What is the best way to remove this old tank? Give it a good seeing-to with an angle-grinder presumably?

2) Is it possible to obtain those sorts of ‘square’ HW tanks that were once popular in local authority properties? It is just that replacing with a cylinder will inevitably loose some capacity but there may be no option here.
 
:D depends if there's any stairs / special access requirements

And no they don't make square ones

But what you will loose in cavity you will gain in insulation qualitys
 
1) What is the best way to remove this old tank? Give it a good seeing-to with an angle-grinder presumably?

Not an angle grinder. A reciprocating saw and a suitable blade for cutting metal. Hire one. Take a couple of spare blades on use or return just in case. Ear defenders and eye protection absolutely essential too. Watch for sharp edges.
 
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But what you will loose in cavity you will gain in insulation qualitys
Good point, thanks.

Not an angle grinder. A reciprocating saw and a suitable blade for cutting metal. Hire one. Take a couple of spare blades on use or return just in case. Ear defenders and eye protection absolutely essential too. Watch for sharp edges.
Thanks for this, Chuck. I can get hold of a reciprocating-saw without too much difficulty. In addition would a jig-saw have any use here as they are rather less bulky than an r-s?
 
In addition would a jig-saw have any use here as they are rather less bulky than an r-s?

Provided you have the right blade a jig-saw should do the job. The problem is less bulky also tends to mean less cutting-capacity. Success will depend a bit how thick the tank is. I'm assuming two or three millimetre not something that's come off a submarine.

Tell the homeowner to go out (or provide ear plugs) and take it slow.
 
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Provided you have the right blade a jig-saw should do the job. Depends a but how thick the tank is. I'm assuming two or three millimetre not something that's come off a submarine.

Will be thick mate 4-5mm I would say by the hand hot formed rivets
 
Not an angle grinder. A reciprocating saw and a suitable blade for cutting metal. Hire one. Take a couple of spare blades on use or return just in case. Ear defenders and eye protection absolutely essential too. Watch for sharp edges.
Be careful not to damage your reciprocating saw. I burnt out an expensive Hilti saw recently by chopping up something similar!
 
WHPES Trusted Plumber GSR
Be careful not to damage your reciprocating saw. I burnt out an expensive Hilti saw recently by chopping up something similar!

No worries, WHIPES, it's my dad's reciprocator. :mad:

Thanks for the info, guys.
 
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