How can this kitchen tap be replaced?

[cable_guy]

Hi,

Disclaimer: I'm not a plumber, i'm a customer who uses this forum for advice.

https://i.*********/aEJAYle.jpg

The newer taps I see on guidance videos like this one do not have flexible hoses going through the nut like mine, but are instead like this:

https://i.*********/hYvIVN9.jpg

what should I do?

 

[rpm]

Remove the other ends of the flexi`s from the pipes, remove the nut and washer shown in your photo and retrieve the tap & flexi`s from above.

 

[ShaunCorbs]

As above also if your lucky the flexis should unscrew from the tap body

 

[cable_guy]

thanks. do you mean to bin the existing nut and use the new style tap fittings which will (hopefully) come with the new tap, and attach the flexis to that?

 

[ShaunCorbs]

Correct but replace the flexi connections as there x amount of years old

 

[rpm]

As above also if your lucky the flexis should unscrew from the tap body

I`d use new flexi`s.

thanks. do you mean to bin the existing nut and use the new style tap fittings which will (hopefully) come with the new tap, and attach the flexis to that?

Yep, bin everything in the photo, the new tap may have different fittings on the flexi`s.
Buy the new tap and check the new flexi`s are long enough before doing any removal work.

 

[oz-plumber]

It must be a tap of some quality if it is supplied without flexible connectors.
I didn't think you would be able to buy a tap that didn't have the connectors supplied.

 

[fixitflav]

thanks. do you mean to bin the existing nut and use the new style tap fittings which will (hopefully) come with the new tap, and attach the flexis to that?

With the new style tap, the threaded rod is likely to be too long to get a socket on the nut, and there's no room to use a ring or open-end. I keep a box spanner for the job, plenty long enough to take the threaded rod and you can put a socket and extension on the other end so you're completely clear of obstructions. Alternatively, you could use a distance piece under the nut, and a socket spanner. I use a piece of 1/4" steel pipe cut to length. The threaded rod is usually M8, and your pic looks like that, but I have seen M6.

 

[Moffski72]

With the new style tap, the threaded rod is likely to be too long to get a socket on the nut, and there's no room to use a ring or open-end. I keep a box spanner for the job, plenty long enough to take the threaded rod and you can put a socket and extension on the other end so you're completely clear of obstructions. Alternatively, you could use a distance piece under the nut, and a socket spanner. I use a piece of 1/4" steel pipe cut to length. The threaded rod is usually M8, and your pic looks like that, but I have seen M6.

Or...https://www.NoLinkingToThis/p/rothenberger-monoblock-tap-spanner-set/40102

 

[Welder]

I just use (so would recommend) a thin walled combination spanner cut in half. Use either end till its sufficiently tight.
If you can take a picture you can get at it.
Ignore the old, its simply a different fixing but also very common.
No big deal really and certainly no need to worry about it.
Have fun.

 

[rpm]

With the new style tap, the threaded rod is likely to be too long to get a socket on the nut, and there's no room to use a ring or open-end. I keep a box spanner for the job, plenty long enough to take the threaded rod and you can put a socket and extension on the other end so you're completely clear of obstructions. Alternatively, you could use a distance piece under the nut, and a socket spanner. I use a piece of 1/4" steel pipe cut to length. The threaded rod is usually M8, and your pic looks like that, but I have seen M6.

That`s ok as a spacer providing both ends are cut square.

 

[Welder]

My apologies but I would not recommend a spacer out of copper tube as its too soft.

It will never tighten properly as it begins to collapse when tightened right up hard.

 

[fixitflav]

Or...https://www.NoLinkingToThis/p/rothenberger-monoblock-tap-spanner-set/40102

That's very similar to what I have, I call them box spanners. Mine is a set of 4, cost £5 from local ironmonger, and it didn't say Rothenberger on them. Screwfix are often on the pricey side, I've found.

 

[fixitflav]

I just use (so would recommend) a thin walled combination spanner cut in half. Use either end till its sufficiently tight.
If you can take a picture you can get at it.
Have fun.

Looking at the pic, and from the ones I've done, I would say that's pretty awkward to do with ring or open-end spanners, cut in half or not.

My apologies but I would not recommend a spacer out of copper tube as its too soft.
It will never tighten properly as it begins to collapse when tightened right up hard.

No need to apologise. Neither would I, that's why I use 1/4" steel pipe. It's 13.5mm OD, bore is a good fit on an M8, 2.7mm wall. Does the job fine.

 

[fixitflav]

That`s ok as a spacer providing both ends are cut square.

That's right, but if it's not sawn square, file it till it is!

 

[Ric2013]

Personally, I hate those horseshoe shaped backwasher things with the single stud and nut, but they do work. That said, the type of fixing on your old tap is probably superior in my opinion.