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jonna

Im planning to remove an existing rad in a bathroom and replace with a towel radiator.

Was going to mount the new rad, fill it in situ, then connect whilst depressurised (without draining the first floor).

I'd have done this myself in the last house, but the place we're in now has an invented system. Question is, should I even attempt this on and invented system or should I get someone qualified in?
 
I don't think anyone can understand your wording tbh.
Invented system? Do you mean - Unvented, and if so, on the heating side, or the hot water?
Unvented hot water is nothing to do with the heating system.
Unvented heating system (known as a 'Sealed system"), can be easily worked at when pressure taken off, but only is working on compression joints etc and not soldering
 
Apologies, yes, I did mean my system is an unvented (sealed) heating system. Auto-correct seems to want to change this to 'invented' for some reason.

The question still stands though, should I attempt this job on a sealed system, or does all work require someone certified?

Thanks.
 
Not sure if it's relevant or not but I'm in a new build that has either 8 or 10mm plastic microbore.
 
Is the space between the old radiator and the new the same size? The old radiator will be fed from the sides the new probably from the bottom. You will most likely need to change the valves to straight ones. With micro bore plastic you will probably have room to manipulate the pipes to get the correct position for the valves. Drop the pressure, fit new valves and then the new towel rail. If you get stuck there is always a professional plumber at the end of the phone.
 
Is the space between the old radiator and the new the same size? The old radiator will be fed from the sides the new probably from the bottom. You will most likely need to change the valves to straight ones. With micro bore plastic you will probably have room to manipulate the pipes to get the correct position for the valves. Drop the pressure, fit new valves and then the new towel rail. If you get stuck there is always a professional plumber at the end of the phone.

The old radiator was fed from the side as you say, but as the new one is a chrome towel radiator, I've bought angled valves and plan to run 15mm copper in the wall, then marry up to the plastic in the wall (I've ripped a vertical section of board out and have studded the wall with timber). Not decided on how I'm going to connect the 15mm to the microbore yet - may use a good quality wras approved isolation valves. Was planning on putting a plasterboard hatch low on the wall to access the fittings at the joint between the pipework....
 
Hi Jonna,

I would not attempt of installing a rad as you do not seem very confident about it. Why not getting a plumber in to install the missing rad?

But, if you do feel confident then yes just do it as recommended above ( @moonlight ). Do you know how to refill the system afterwards ?
 
The fitting where the valve is will be 15mm. Not the neatest of jobs but you could fit a compression straight to that. Try not to use isolation valves. Then you could continue in copper.

As Matchless.plumb says do you know how to refill your heating?
 
I wasn't planning on emptying the system. Was going to depressurise it, connect the supply, then repressurise and bleed.
 
As above replies say, you do not seem too confident and also definitely do not use isolating valves to connect on to the original pipes! What good would they be and also they could give trouble.
Just take pressure off system and connect one pipe at a time, using push fit connectors or elbows (whatever is correct) and make sure if you have to cut pipes that you use cutters and also use pipe inserts for that brand of pipe.
 
Save yourself a load of grief mate get a plumber in will be done in half the time cheers kop.
 
Thanks for the advice. The reason I was planning on putting ISO valves in place is that it would allow me to leave the radiator off the wall so I can make good the reboarding etc, then connect the rad (to exposed 15mm pipe) at a later date. I take the point regarding potential for issues in future though so will avoid if I can.

As for the previous q's, I'm aware of where the refill loop is (thumb valve on flex hose attached to exp vessel).

I'll deffo consider getting a plumber in though. What's a typical cost out of interest?
 
A two hour job probably as you have pipes exposed already.
 
As above replies say, you do not seem too confident and also definitely do not use isolating valves to connect on to the original pipes! What good would they be and also they could give trouble.
Just take pressure off system and connect one pipe at a time, using push fit connectors or elbows (whatever is correct) and make sure if you have to cut pipes that you use cutters and also use pipe inserts for that brand of pipe.

What's the best way to connect 10mm hep2o to 15mm copper? From what I've seen, I'm looking at using a 10mm pipe into 10mm/15mm reducer, into 15mm straight coupling attached to copper. Was hoping there was a 15mm to 10mm fitting but hep don't appear to do it (and I'd rather stick with hep fittings on hep pipe - but aware mix/match is possible so long as inserts match the pipe)...
 
Is yours like this
20170515_184018.jpg

As you can see 15mm compression to valve, you could take off the valve and push gently the excess micro bore back into the wall. Rotate the elbow as necessary and fit straight TRV, new towel rail. Sorted. Re-pressurise and test
 
Is yours like this
View attachment 29844
As you can see 15mm compression to valve, you could take off the valve and push gently the excess micro bore back into the wall. Rotate the elbow as necessary and fit straight TRV, new towel rail. Sorted. Re-pressurise and test

I've got exactly the same setup actually - same TRV as well. Thanks for the suggestion, will definitely consider that as it avoids concealing a fitting in the wall. Thanks.
 
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