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Back in the real world, do you flush or not?

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Ric2013

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I have a job coming up with a local builder wants to subcontract me for some works to heating systems he comes across.

Basic stuff: replace radiators, relocate radiators, add a new radiator type of thing.

The nth degree would dictate drain down, do work, refill, possibly drain again, and refill with MC3 or similar and then drain and refill. Or powerflush. To remove flux residues and and oil used in the manufacture of the new radiator that may be lurking and that may go on to rot EPDM rubber seals used in pushfit or in boiler assemblies.

Realistically, I'd be surprised if most plumbers would get any contracts if they quoted for all that.

How far would you lot go?
 
This is something i wouldnt mind knowing. On a new system with plastic pipework, some copper soldered joints and new radiators throughout. Whats advised, powerflush or just a chemical clean.
 
I would let the builder advise the customers that some jobs might require a full powerflush if they prove to be dirty and others strictly speaking should have a basic flush with a cleaning chemical. It is the builders jobs after all, and his responsibility to pay you the extra.
In real world I would only flush dirty systems or use a cleaner on new systems or if installing a new boiler. I wouldn't bother if piping a new rad on a clean system.
 
also make sure the system works and all the rads get hot before you start draining down just been caught on one was in a rush so drained down cut in a pair of valves filled back up vented best I could fired up nothing temperature sat in the boiler 21/2 hours later managed to get some rads going , getting back to your dilemma I would drain it down whilst hot and then a cold flush once work is completed , refill , vent add inhibitor cheers kop
 
Ric2013 said:
That's a really good tip. Cheers!
Click to expand...

This is so important. In my earlier days of plumbing/heating work I got caught out on an oil boiler service, in a hurry with too many to do in a day and inexperienced, did the service and fired the boiler apart from it wouldn't. Turns out the photocell was faulty and it really was a breakdown, not a service as the customer requested. Anyone else have a customer call for a service when really their boiler has actually broken down?

I always, always, always fire up a system before I do any work on it (as I have done ever since that early mistake and take a FGA reading before I start any work), to make sure there are no problems already there so I can't be told by a customer "It was fine before you touched it!"
 
Stigster said:
Anyone else have a customer call for a service when really their boiler has actually broken down?

I always, always, always fire up a system before I do any work on it (as I have done ever since that early mistake and take a FGA reading before I start any work), to make sure there are no problems already there so I can't be told by a customer "It was fine before you touched it!"
Click to expand...

I don't let the oil boiler fire much more than a few seconds to test it works before I touch it, and I never use the analyser until after I do the service.
I prefer the baffles and rest of boiler to be cool
 
Best said:
I don't let the oil boiler fire much more than a few seconds to test it works before I touch it, and I never use the analyser until after I do the service.
I prefer the baffles and rest of boiler to be cool
Click to expand...

I only run the boiler for a couple of minutes, make sure it actually fires and isn't making any weird noises so I know it's at least running OK before I service. I don't check the heating system because that's not part of a boiler service. I do a quick FGA to see if it's running cleanly before I go adjusting anything.

The boiler does heat up in that time but I turn it off, do my tank and lines check, change the oil filter, connect pressure gauge to pump, remove burner, open the door to the baffles, fill in the paperwork that I can up to that stage and by then the boiler is cool enough to work on the baffles.

At the end I fire up again and get it up to temperature, completing my paperwork before finally making any adjustments and write in the FGA results.

Maybe I'm over cautious but I used to get an hour to do a boiler and nowhere is more than 20 mins drive away here.
 
Stigster said:
I only run the boiler for a couple of minutes, make sure it actually fires and isn't making any weird noises so I know it's at least running OK before I service. I don't check the heating system because that's not part of a boiler service. I do a quick FGA to see if it's running cleanly before I go adjusting anything.

The boiler does heat up in that time but I turn it off, do my tank and lines check, change the oil filter, connect pressure gauge to pump, remove burner, open the door to the baffles, fill in the paperwork that I can up to that stage and by then the boiler is cool enough to work on the baffles.

At the end I fire up again and get it up to temperature, completing my paperwork before finally making any adjustments and write in the FGA results.

Maybe I'm over cautious but I used to get an hour to do a boiler and nowhere is more than 20 mins drive away here.
Click to expand...

I sometimes just run the circulating pump with the boiler itself off. Then, as you say, by the time I clean the burner then the boiler shell and baffles will have cooled hopefully
 
JCplumb said:
From the title of this thread, did anyone else think this was going to be a post about whether you flush after every toilet visit, or just when you have a poo?
:D
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I noticed it, after I had posted lol.

Thanks for helpful comments. Builder has confirmed that a basic will be all I need to quote him on and if customer wants extra then they can pay for it. The house I'll be working on has drops on microbore in every room and no drain offs so it'd take for ever. Drops from loft on first floor inside stud walls... makes me appreciate how good my house is.

In fairness, I've not used cleaner in my own house after doing work. I have done a full water gravity flush though. That's easy when you only have two drops and they are both in the same room and both have working drain-offs. And no carpet.
 
I dont subcontract but i use the adey water test kit (just add £35 to the quote)
Then flush until it's clean. Either basic or power flush until its clean. you send it off and the customer gets a certificate from an independent laboratory.
 
I always put inhibitor in after a drain down but only flush and use cleaner after fitting a new system or new boiler.

I'd powerflush if the system was really dirty with cold spots on radiators.

I think the lack of inhibitor is the main reason people have problems rather than flux and oil residues imho
 
Also depends on what your areas water is like

Ours is spotless so don't tend powerflush

But if doing boiler or a new system adey magna for 4 hours

You would be surprised at how many rads don't get flushed from manufactur
 
Michael1960 said:
Working for builders..... dont get me started
Click to expand...
I'm just waiting for him to say that that waste run I installed yesterday is too high for the appliances that only arrived today. Because I installed it with a fall of 18mm/m (minimum for 40mm pipe according to ADH) and connected to the existing boss (as agreed).
The previous waste didn't have this problem as it just sagged on the floor unclipped behind some boxing, half full of stagnant water, so the new one is a massive improvement. This house was a part of a major development in the former army quarter of Colchester, so I'm surprised how shoddy the existing plumbing was!
 
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