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Belfast sink jig angle

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Bogart

Bogart

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Might be off target posting here buy here goes. All the jigs I see to route out the worktop for a Belfast/Butler type sink have an internal radius of 25mm. I find this odd as the internal radius of the one have I removed and the replacement have an internal radius of half this, as do all those I have measured in the shops. Am loathe to spend £50 plus on a jig for a one off use
if I can cobble up something myself.
 
Make one, 12mm mdf, match the corner radius with the corresponding hole saw, use a track saw or circ saw against a straight edge to cut between the hole edges. Sand to finish. Remember your adding 9mm as the offset form the guide bush.

Easy. Done plenty of Belfast’s, I don’t like the factory jigs. Although the drainer groove jig is a must.

Stu
 
Oh and answering your original question, the internal radius of 25mm won’t give a finished internal radius of 25mm, it will pretty much be the radius of the cutter only (12.7mm) because he cutter is offset 9mm by the guide bush
 
Totally off topic, but why has the Belfast sink made a return? They were being ripped out not so long ago and used as flower beds. Best place for them, IMO. :)
 
@firemant Resurgence in traditional style! The sinks are great, when installed properly......! Very deep and sturdy. You wont see many stainless sinks sat in a garden as a flower pot!

Think of all the traditional style bathrooms and decor going in....! Shaker style bathrooms/kitchens are a massive thing again as well.

Also I suspect because people have realised stainless steel sinks look naff!
 
Never thought of the jig having an allowance for the radius. As you say must be easy to cobble one up using 2 holes of the radius of the sink and cutting between. Pop in a drip groove using a router. Now am not sure how this drip groove works as most people suggest using mastic between the underside of the worktop and the top of the sink.
 
Worktop Over hangs by 15mm, drip groove done with a 6mm radius grove cutter 5 mm in from edge, then silicone goes in the remaining 4-5mm. All approx. If you don’t drop groove, youl get a trashed worktop.

Also don’t use danish oil, use OSMO polyx or OSMO topoil
 
Am going to use Woca oil. A final thought does one set the worktop into some sort of mastic, original was on brick piers laid onto a mortar bead? This one though will be sitting on a plywood base, even though it is damn heavy I think it could still slide around.
 
Screw it down drill a 10mm hole in the carcass/ply, pilot hole into the worktop then use a penny wash and lightly screw it up. It needs to be able to expand and contract, silicone the back gap to the wall. Then silicone underside of the sink
 
it wont need anything mate, just its weight will hold it then the silicone round the top will stop it going anywhere.
 
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