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Discuss Using a yorkshire fitting end instead of olive in compression joint in the Plumbing Jobs | The Job-board area at PlumbersForums.net

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Has anyone come across this? I've searched a lot and I can't find any instance of it. I'm redoing the plumbing in several rooms for different reasons and I've noticed that a previous plumber has used what appear to be solder ring fittings straight into 15mm compression fittings (no olive). There have been no leak problems and we've lived here for 21 years.

As I'm not familiar with this procedure, I'm not comfortable with using the same fitting. Trouble is, one of the fittings is right up against the wall & there is no olive to replace..
 
you got a pic of the joint?
 
Has anyone come across this? I've searched a lot and I can't find any instance of it. I'm redoing the plumbing in several rooms for different reasons and I've noticed that a previous plumber has used what appear to be solder ring fittings straight into 15mm compression fittings (no olive). There have been no leak problems and we've lived here for 21 years.

As I'm not familiar with this procedure, I'm not comfortable with using the same fitting. Trouble is, one of the fittings is right up against the wall & there is no olive to replace..
Pic would be useful. The solder ring is in the male part. I suppose you could solder a pipe end into a compression joint (end feeding it), and leave the nut off as it wouldn't be doing anything. But why you would want to I can't think. If you have a compression fitting might as well use it, with advantage that it can be dismantled.
Unless I'm barking up the wrong tree.
 
you got a pic of the joint?
Thank you. Yes. The first pic is the one I would like to reuse if I am advised it is likely to be secure. The second and third pics are of the one I removed and cut to reuse the compression fitting (shown). I am realising now that it is likely to be a pre-made solder ring connector. My main question now is "is the one on the wall OK to connect with the compression tee in the pic. I've only had cases before where there has been an olive which I have always replaced.
you got a pic of the joint?
 
Not one of theses is it, or an elbow version?
https://www.screwfix.com/p/yorkshire-yps62-solder-ring-straight-tap-connector-15mm-x/94280

Alternately there used to be a forming tool for pressing an olive out of a piece of 15mm pipe.
Thank you. It does look similar, only it is end feed connected to the pipe and solder ring inside the nut of the compression fitting. I think you've answered my question. But would it be OK to connect the compression tee back. I've only done this with ones with an olive you can replace.
 
Thank you. Yes. The first pic is the one I would like to reuse if I am advised it is likely to be secure. The second and third pics are of the one I removed and cut to reuse the compression fitting (shown). I am realising now that it is likely to be a pre-made solder ring connector. My main question now is "is the one on the wall OK to connect with the compression tee in the pic. I've only had cases before where there has been an olive which I have always replaced.

no pics?
 
Pic would be useful. The solder ring is in the male part. I suppose you could solder a pipe end into a compression joint (end feeding it), and leave the nut off as it wouldn't be doing anything. But why you would want to I can't think. If you have a compression fitting might as well use it, with advantage that it can be dismantled.
Unless I'm barking up the wrong tree.
Hi, thanks. I posted pics to ShaunCorbs. Can you see those? I wasn't sure if this type of fitting can be put back safely after undoing. I always change the olive on compression fittings but am not sure about these. If not I could desolder the elbow at the wall and endfeed what I need. I do prefer to endfeed but use a lot of compression fittings for isolation valves etc. As you say, why not reuse. Would it be safe in my situation then do you think?
 
Here they are. Thanks!

Pic 3 sml.jpg


Pic 2 sml.jpg


Pic 1 sml.jpg
 
yea used tap connectors

upto you but i would replace them

if you dont you will need new fibre washers
 
yea used tap connectors

upto you but i would replace them

if you dont you will need new fibre washers
That's great. Thanks so much. My plan here then would be to desolder the whole thing so that I have an inch or so of 15mm pipe at the wall to work with, clean it and then just endfeed my constructed pipe arrangement to that. Would you agree? (did they originally use the wrong type of connector then?)
 
Sounds about right
Depends on what your plan is but you will need an endfeed elbow

And guess that's all someone had :D
 
Sounds about right
Depends on what your plan is but you will need an endfeed elbow

And guess that's all someone had :D
Most helpful, thanks. That goes from the downstairs loo to the garage tap. I'm making plans for a "foolproof" system to 100% drain the latter for cold spells (with a type A inside), bearing in mind it has an oblig. non-return valve which might hold water in the tap (I think I'll need to suck water through from the garage tap). Am I right? Also, the garage tap is placed about half way up a vertical 15mm pipe & I'm guessing that was some kind of "diy" anti-water hammer attempt?
Inside, rather than an elbow I think I may have room for an end feed straight connector and 15mm pipe bent to the tightest radius I can get on my new pipe bender (needs to be boxed in). I read that is best where feasible?
 
Oh the great thou shalt not use elbows.

Let's be clear: I avoid them because it's quicker to pull a joint than clean, cut, prep, solder, and clean again; because a pulled bend looks nice; if you need slightly over 90 or slightly under, you can have it; you get better flow rates; there is no joint to leak, ever; and finally because I feel more like a plumber than I would putting elbows all over the place.

How often, though, do the flow rates actually matter that much? If it's on mains pressure, the small drop in flow/available pressure caused by an elbow rather than a pulled 90°C bend really is neither here nor there in most cases and unless you are running a lot of water through the pipe on a regular basis, the turbulence and cavitation risk is unlikely to cause trouble. After all, how many houses have a tee directly above a stopcock?

By all means leran [EDIT: learn] to pull bends. It is very satisfying and gives you a passport out of all sorts of dead ends you'd end up in without one, but don't get obsessive - if you can't pull a bend, use an elbow.
 
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I prefer to bend copper and got my own lever bender from the uk a couple years ago. That said, here in the states only a small fraction of plumbers bend pipe. Almost every plumber uses premade elbows.

If you run 3/4" lines to a bathroom and 1/2" lines in the room itself you won't have an issue with pressure loss, fittings or not.

For those who dont bend pipe frequently fittings are faster/easier.
 
Also you can't get as tight a bend with a bender as you can with a fitting which can make things neater in the end
 
Also you can't get as tight a bend with a bender as you can with a fitting which can make things neater in the end
 
The problem with using tap connectors is that the fibre washers will wear out eventually and long before any compression olive. The modern plastic washers are a wee bit better, but I'd use compression or end feed fittings and not tap adapters on pipe work. Of course they are perfectly fine on basin taps etc, where access to them is readily available. Under a floor or in a concealed space, I'd say is a big no.
 
The problem with using tap connectors is that the fibre washers will wear out eventually and long before any compression olive. The modern plastic washers are a wee bit better, but I'd use compression or end feed fittings and not tap adapters on pipe work. Of course they are perfectly fine on basin taps etc, where access to them is readily available. Under a floor or in a concealed space, I'd say is a big no.
Yes, definitely tap connectors only on taps. Also on taps there usually isn't any choice as the tap has a flat end for a washer, but no taper for an olive. Tap connectors only need moderate tightening, and they're often difficult to get to and apply the torque needed for an olive.
 

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