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Washing Machine Water Valve

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fadsarmy

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Hello, I'm preparing for my new washing to arrive and trying to disconnect the old one. I'm having problems turning the hot water valve off. The red lever won't turn either way like the blue one does. Do I need to get a plumber in or should I leave it for the delivery guys who are going to install it? Thanks in advance.

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If you take the red lever off , you will be able to turn the brass piece underneath it with a pair of grips.
However , if you dont feel confident leave it to the delivery guys
 
If you must turn it off yourself, do not use force as you will likely break the valve as most seem to be made from substances as strong as tinfoil. WD40 and patience is good (WD seems quite effective on limescale for some reason). Capping close to the tee would be the best option, however, as it means you don't have a length of redundant pipework in which foul toads can knot and gender (and where bacteria can breed).
 
fadsarmy said:
Thanks for all the replies. I think I'll cap it off close to the tee. Is it easy to do. Shall I just use a hack saw? What are the caps called?
Click to expand...
Yes it is easy to do. I’d personally use a pipe cutter, however if all you have is hacksaw it will do the same job. Just make sure to cut the pipe as straight as possible, then you can either use a push fit jg cap or a compression stop end (15mm).
 
Use a 15mm compression stopend isolate the hot water supply and open up your hot taps to drain beware there will still be water in the pipework , cut the pipe square leave 20mm straight pipe and debur slide on the nut and olive add a smear of pipe sealant screw the compression stopend on and tighten with 2 spanners. Kop
 
Thanks for all the help guys, really appreciated. I've decided to leave it for the pros. I spoke to a reputable local plumber who said he'd get rid of the tee for me completely. Whilst he's here, he might as well change the cold washing machine valve since I found some water leaking on it when I turned it a few days ago but none since. Is there a good quality one that I could get?
 
fadsarmy said:
Thanks for all the help guys, really appreciated. I've decided to leave it for the pros. I spoke to a reputable local plumber who said he'd get rid of the tee for me completely. Whilst he's here, he might as well change the cold washing machine valve since I found some water leaking on it when I turned it a few days ago but none since. Is there a good quality one that I could get?
Click to expand...
All of them will seize up eventually if not turned. You may be better off just getting the plumber to supply the valve.
 
Ric2013 said:
If you must turn it off yourself, do not use force as you will likely break the valve as most seem to be made from substances as strong as tinfoil. WD40 and patience is good (WD seems quite effective on limescale for some reason). Capping close to the tee would be the best option, however, as it means you don't have a length of redundant pipework in which foul toads can knot and gender (and where bacteria can breed).
Click to expand...

Ric. Something for you to note, NEVER use WD40 on that type of valve. WD40 is hydrocarbon based so will attack the single nitrile o-ring that the thing relies on for its seal. Once exposed to it it WILL cause it to fail.

If you're to use anything, use a silicone based lubricant as silicone is inert.

HTH
 
YorkshireDave said:
Ric. Something for you to note, NEVER use WD40 on that type of valve. WD40 is hydrocarbon based so will attack the single nitrile o-ring that the thing relies on for its seal. Once exposed to it it WILL cause it to fail.

If you're to use anything, use a silicone based lubricant as silicone is inert.

HTH
Click to expand...
Cheers. Only ever used it on old, fibre glanded, stopcocks, but will bear that advice in mind.
 
The regs define a deadleg as something e than 1.5 times pipe dia. Think about that. It means no T can be capped it must be removed...
 

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