Rayburn 400K

[SJB060685]

You’re right, I’ve a good selection of tools but I’m missing the exhaust gas analyser. I’ve found a local guy on fb that does oil boilers so I’ll give him a ring on Monday.

I appreciate you're a hands on type of person and I know it's frustrating when your primary energy source fails and you struggle to find someone but as the old saying goes "a little knowledge is dangerous knowledge".

There wasn’t the clicking sound of the spark. I’ve checked the electrode position and it’s ok. Plus the leads are securely pushed in/on and tight.

By the sounds of it then you may have more than one problem. If it's genuinely not sparking and I would confirm this by running a specific test (which I won't explain what) then you could have a control box, box mounting plate or a dodgy transformer. You could also have a breakdown in electrode insulation and it's arching across the blast tube. You really need someone to start at the tank and work their way in.

 

[Uncle Nick]

It did cross my mind that it could be more than one fault but it was working ok and seems odd that a couple of things fail at the same time. It’s frustrating as hell, especially as sometimes it fires up and sometimes goes straight to lock out.

 

[SJB060685]

Without being in front of a troublesome burner it's hard to say what is the fault, we can only speculate.

 

[Uncle Nick]

Without being in front of a troublesome burner it's hard to say what is the fault, we can only speculate.

Exactly. I just wish you were in the north east and could come and see it.
Thanks for your help, appreciate it.

 

[Uncle Nick]

Hi again all, quick update, a local guy came out, (reluctantly - he doesn’t normally work on Rayburns and only agreed as this is a burner issue)
At first he agreed it was probably the pump but first checked the solenoid on the top, which was faulty.
A new solenoid fitted and everything working as it should. Touch wood rapidly!

 

[SJB060685]

I thought you said all solenoids were replaced?

 

[Uncle Nick]

I thought you said all solenoids were replaced?

No I replaced the electrodes and nozzle.

 

[SJB060685]

No I replaced the electrodes and nozzle.

Ah, sorry there's been a few range cooker posts recently and I got mixed up.

 

[Uncle Nick]

Ah, sorry there's been a few range cooker posts recently and I got mixed up.

No problem. I appreciate you taking the time to help.

 

[SJB060685]

Do you have a multimeter?

 

[Uncle Nick]

Yes, I used it to rule out the photocell.

 

[SJB060685]

Ok. Did you check cell to see what microamps you were getting?
The Danfoss coils on that burner are a common fail point. Usually when they fail they do so within in 10-15 minutes after ignition. They break down internally where you would get a zero resistance reading or no continuity, often they can fuse back together and you get the problem you had, alternatively they remain OL (open loop) and never work again. The new Danfoss diamond coils are supposed to be a lot more robust but still not without their problems. If you find you're going through several coils then I would consider changing the stem on the pump. I can explain to you why if you'd like or you can just bare it in mind.

 

[Uncle Nick]

I’ve just checked and there’s no continuity between any of the three terminals on the solenoid. Was that what you meant?
As far as I know, it’s the original coil so will be 8 or 9 years old. Hopefully I’ll get the same from this new one, although the engineer did recommend keeping one as a spare, which doesn’t bode well for his ideas on future reliability.

 

[SJB060685]

Danfoss coil yes?

 

[Uncle Nick]

Yes, Danfoss 071N0051 which has been replaced by the 071N1006
“Danfoss Upgraded Replacement Solenoid Coil

Offers better reliability than standard BFP Coils”