Discuss Bizarre thermostat boiler problem in the Plumbing Jobs | The Job-board area at PlumbersForums.net

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Hi :)

Since about midday today we've been experiencing a very odd problem with our boiler (Main Combi 24 HE). Got in earlier to find the place sweltering, with the radiators red hot and the room temp showing at about 27C. We have a Salus RT300RF room stat and this was set to 15C - but the little burner symbol that usually shows when the heating is on wasn't lit.

The receiver's green light just seems to come on when it wants to - and nothing will stop it, short of switching off the power at the wall. Even with the heating and hot water settings to off and the batteries removed from the thermostat, the green light on the receiver still comes on.

The boiler and stat are a month old and have worked fine up till today. I'm absolutely stumped but didn't want to fetch the installer back if it turned out to be something silly. Wondering if anyone here has any ideas. Any help or advice much appreciated :)
 
I did wonder if it could be something of this nature. We're in a middle flat here. But there had been no problem up till now. I've been looking around the place in case something one of us has brought in is somehow interfering with the receiver - can't find anything of the kind. It's very strange.

If the problem hasn't gone away by tomorrow, I think getting the installer back is the only option, though I think he'll probably point out something very obvious that we're somehow missing lol It's very annoying because the place quickly becomes like a sauna unless the boiler is kept switched off.
 
good boiler very poor quality stat your installer may have fitted the salus in good faith but they are rubbish if it is communicating with another wire free device the frequency can be altered via dip switches in the receiver
 
good boiler very poor quality stat your installer may have fitted the salus in good faith but they are rubbish if it is communicating with another wire free device the frequency can be altered via dip switches in the receiver

Yeah, I've been seeing quite a few people have issues with Salus stats. My knowledge of such things is nonexistent. The installer has a good rep and I know others who have recommended him highly - which begs the question of why he uses a stat with a poor reputation. We would have paid extra for a decent one, it's not like we were trying to penny pinch ;)

Just had a read of the little manual for the thermostat. Not sure if I could alter the frequency without breaking something. Can't for the life of my work out what the problem could be, unless it's a device not inside our property but nearby.

I liked our old Worcester Bosch - no wireless malarkey, just nice and simple and reliable. I don't suppose there's any easy way (or any at all) of not having the boiler controlled by the thermostat?
 
YOU DONT HAVE TO HAVE A THERMOSTAT BUT you will use a lot more gas,get a wire free honeywell if it continues to play up,your installer would need to do the dip switches for you its with the wiring part of the receiver myself like your installer used to fit a lot of salus stats once but i went over to honeywell for reliability no one wants callbacks for product issues so your installer probably wont fit salus if they start to give him/her agro
 
YOU DONT HAVE TO HAVE A THERMOSTAT BUT you will use a lot more gas,get a wire free honeywell if it continues to play up,your installer would need to do the dip switches for you its with the wiring part of the receiver myself like your installer used to fit a lot of salus stats once but i went over to honeywell for reliability no one wants callbacks for product issues so your installer probably wont fit salus if they start to give him/her agro

I can't understand why the installer didn't give us the option of having a Honeywell (or other reliable thermostat). It would have been well worth the extra fifty or sixty quid not to have this kind of hassle.
 
Unfortunately many installers try to keep the price down by fitting these type of items - false economy really. Salus are not great and I would ask the installer to change it for you if you pay the price difference.
 
Hi there,

Apologies about hijacking this old topic. I'll try to be brief.

I have a Sunvic RF1206 and the receiver, which is attached to the boiler, started buzzing. I disconnected the receiver as this is obviously a sign of a fault. I still have hot water but no central heating.

I need to get a new receiver and thermostat combination however I've been reading bad things about the Salus ones, including this thread! I guess my two questions are: which receiver should I invest in and can I install it myself? I am capable of addressing most problems of a simple nature by no means gifted in the inner workings of DIY.

Oh, I'm sure this isn't important but it's a Biasi combi boiler.

Thanks in advance.
 
I have just fitted an RT300 RF Wireless SALUS thermostat to my system an have experienced the exact same problem and have managed to the problem so hopefully I can help - I know you raised this over 4 years ago but hopefully the post will help others. You do not state what system you have but the problem effects Y-Plan configuration - systems with a 3-way zone valve. The problem exists because you have removed the fixed room stat, which incorporates a resistor, whereas the SALIS you have added does not. This is described in detail in my blog (cantEnerWebAddessesInPosts:) but basically the missing resistor is responsible for switching the boiler off after the required temperature has been reached. You will need 330k resistor to make the SALUS work in a Y-Plan system (see blog).
 
the problem effects Y-Plan configuration ... The problem exists because you have removed the fixed room stat, which incorporates a resistor, ... basically the missing resistor is responsible for switching the boiler off after the required temperature has been reached.
That's a new one!

I assume this affects Salus stats only as my Y plan system with a Honeywell 2-wire stat has never exhibited this problem.
 
That's a new one!

I assume this affects Salus stats only as my Y plan system with a Honeywell 2-wire stat has never exhibited this problem.

Having spoken directly with Salus since making the original post I think it would be fair to say it may be related to particular zone valves rather than the stat per se. My system will only work with the resistor in place. I have a strong electrical background but am not too hot at plumbing but wat I have metered out is that:
- applying 230v to the white wire energises the motor to the correct CH position
- a neural is required at the white terminal to return the motor back to it's original position
As I say, the system operates perfectly with the resistor in place but the motor will not turn back without it.
 
- applying 230v to the white wire energises the motor to the correct CH position
- a neural is required at the white terminal to return the motor back to it's original position
As I say, the system operates perfectly with the resistor in place but the motor will not turn back without it.
Which motorized valves do you have? (Make and model no)
 
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