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Discuss Byelaw 30 kit in the Plumbing Jobs | The Job-board area at PlumbersForums.net

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JCplumb

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Quick question that's niggled me for some time.
If you go to service a valve in a loft tank and there's no byelaw 30 kit, do you have to fit one?
I never have to be honest but have always advised the customer and told them what 'could' be coming out of their taps.
 
I am pretty sure that all you can do is a recommendation
 
All you can do is advise. If they don't want to pay for it you can't make them pay for it
 
I also thought that you need a bylaw kit on a CWS but not a F+E??
 
you have as much chance of billing for the kit if not requested, as them charging you for parking your van outside their house.
i just do it, mention it, get my money and go.

oh, by the way sir. you need a loft ladder and your loft boarding out as per regs for maintenance of tanks....so...plus the ÂŁ3 ballcock that will be ÂŁ378. check or cash?.
 
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oh, by the way sir. you need a loft ladder and your loft boarding out as per regs for maintenance of tanks....so...plus the ÂŁ3 ballcock that will be ÂŁ378. check or cash?.


It always amazes me that when I go to quote for new boilers, that they want relocating to the loft, as soon as I mention that most manufacturers own service guys wont go into the loft, unless it is boarded, lighting and loft ladder, they say either " oh just quote for it to go in the same place" or " the last guy never told me that".
Got into quite a heated debate once when a potential customer accused me of creating more work by insisting on these things.
When I told him, that if I fit you a boiler in the loft without these things, and you need a warranty call, and they wont go into the loft, you are going to be dragging my name through the mud saying I installed it incorrectly.
Needless to say never got the job.
 
The mouse bones I found in the bottom of the last water cistern I serviced convinced the customer of the benefits of having a byelaw kit fitted, and also got me additional work in the village after he told his neighbours and they asked me to do theirs as well..
 
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The mouse bones I found in the bottom of the last water cistern I serviced convinced the customer of the benefits of having a byelaw kit fitted, and also got me additional work in the village after he told his neighbours and they asked me to do theirs as well..

aah the old dead mouse trick, i never leave home without one!:wink5:
 
On all new installations they must be fitted (not a requirement in Scotland, though I fit them as good practice), but on existing installations you should advise the customer of the current regs and the benefits of having one fitted.
 
Related I guess guysd (DIYer here if you can't guess).

I have to add ano 25 gallon CWS tank to eh existing one i have there already, so will link them at the bottom.

But does the 'new' one have to be Bylaw 30'd in it's own right (own mains feed & ball cock, air vent over flow etc etc) or can it just link & 'run' off the other one plse?

I suspect it needs the full monty in this day and age but thought i'd ask.

Also, does it need to be a 22mm or 28mm link between them?

(It is the additional cpacity required for a Salamander shower pump BTW.)

Thanks.
 
have you considered just getting one bigger tank and doing away with the existing? quicker easier and less hassle particularly for the diy'er than linking in an extra cwsc
 
Sorry, i should have said on OP, that i have the obvious catch 22 - the coffins that fit through the loft hatch are too long for the platform for the CWS tank(s) & re-jigging that, due to the layout & cost is just going to be impractical, and the 50 Gallon ones that will fit the platform are too big to get through the loft hatch (again not worth a 'rebuild' on that).

Thanks anyway.

By the way, what's CWSC stand for? I know what it is obviously.
 
Cheers ears :)

I might sound like i know what i'm on about when i go to the merchants.

But probably not.
 
When linking two or more c/w cisterns you have be careful to plumb them in correctly so that one does not sit stagnant
 
When linking two or more c/w cisterns you have be careful to plumb them in correctly so that one does not sit stagnant

OK, i think i get that:

I will keep the ball valve in the original one, link it to the new one and have the cold feed to the shower off that one (away from the ball valve) so it draws the water through.

Is that what you mean?

Or is it more complex than that Scotty?
 
theres a diagram about this in the water regs. will see if i can find it and pop it on here for you
 
you are pretty much on the right lines though, basically leave the existing ball valve in place and take the feed for your shower from the new tank. connect the two in 22mm copper.

don't attempt to fit the new tank at a different height from first as once connected the water will find a level and if uneven height one will overflow
 
Cheers both.

Salamander actually spec 28mm for the link.

Needs to be copper though you say?
 
I would use copper. Connect in 28 if that's what manufacturer specifies

Sent from my GT-I9100 using Tapatalk 2
 
I would use copper. Connect in 28 if that's what manufacturer specifies

Sent from my GT-I9100 using Tapatalk 2

Ok cheers.

Anyone got 30 cm of 28mm going spare then :)

Or,

anyone want to buy 1.7m of it after i get a length? : )
 
Use two 22mm connections instead of a single 28?


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD
 
Use two 22mm connections instead of a single 28?


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

Sounds good.

I assume you can't have too much 'capacity flow' between the the tanks (i.e. 2x 22 is 44 mm 'flow capacity' isn't too much compared to 1x 28mm 'flow capacity' is it) ?

The more the merrier here?

Or twice the risk of a leak?
 
No it will be fine, just make sure you line up your holes spot on.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD
 
Use two 22mm connections instead of a single 28?


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

Hi again TB,

can i use 2x 22mm PEX for this (i know people will say copper) but i'd literally have to get a length for those tiddly bitd whereas i'd have 22mm PEX for the other pipework.

I intend to use speedfit connectors anyway.

Thanks.
 
Sounds good.

I assume you can't have too much 'capacity flow' between the the tanks (i.e. 2x 22 is 44 mm 'flow capacity' isn't too much compared to 1x 28mm 'flow capacity' is it) ?

The more the merrier here?

Or twice the risk of a leak?

As TBServices said, you'l be fine. But on a point of pedantry, the relevant factor is cross-sectional area. Using a nominal 22mm and 28mm (actual values slightly smaller as those figures are for outside diameter and don't take into account the thickness of the pipe wall),

2 x 22mm tubes will give 760mm[SUP]2[/SUP], 1 x 28mm will be 616mm[SUP]2[/SUP] so it's actually quite close!
 
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