Drainage waste question

[mo7]

Hi

Can someone help me understand what this drainage connection is made of?

WP_20170427_17_14_20_Pro.jpg

Firstly there is the strap on boss which looks welded on - as does the plastic inset - it is not a rubber insert.

What is the next thing before the first 90 degree bend?

I need to dismantle this and re-do and I am guessing I am stuffed if the boss and the first connection is glued on.

Is it possible to have the 90 degree immediately after the boss? essentially there would be a straight bit of pipe but you wouldn't see it as it would just join them directly.

I have had a play and the first 90 degree rotates which suggests it is not solvent welded but the fist pipe out of the boss appears tighter - cannot get a grip on it but feels welded.

 

[stani]

It's all solvent by the looks of it, the fact you can move one means the glue either didn't take or was forgot.

 

[snowhead]

Are you redoing it because of a leak or replacing the waste?
Is it from a bath?
It needs to be higher up into the stack if possible, it risks freezing at ground level.

Stack pipe--Solvent boss--Solvent adapter (insert )with push fit end where the staining / leak shows.

If you need to replace the lot, break the solvent boss off carefully with a sharp chisel, it doesn't look to be stuck on too well.

Clean up the soil pipe well before you glue the new boss on.

No problem with an elbow, bend would be better, straight out of the boss.

 

[mo7]

Hi

Bit of a long story - which I will spare you the details.

The joints I have shown serve my downstairs kitchen - sink/washing machine/boiler. The reason I need to change it all is because I am having my paving done and we need to move some of the pipes higher up the wall (not shown in the photo).

The particular boss had to go there because there is a toilet downstairs which is above that joint and the pipes serving this joint go under my kitchen door - so basically stuck a bit with levels.

As I am doing it I would rather just do it from scratch - I don't mind spending a few quid on new joists etc as it means I can do it exactly how I want.

With the joint in question I want it to bend upwards as soon as it leaves the boss.

I have done some research and spoken to the original plumber. It appears that the boss is solvent welded on and the first connection is one of these.

OsmaSoil 2S399B 40mm Ring-Seal Boss Adaptor Black | Travis Perkins

On the plus side it means the joists that come out of it are push fitted in rather than solvent welded.

Now my issue is that if I want to make it neat and least bulky as possible so I leave that joint in and work away from it or do I take the whole boss off and start again.

The less bulky joints I can use on a boss appear to be these

OsmaSoil 2S299B Solvent Weld Boss Adaptor 40mm Black | Travis Perkins

I presume a 40mm pipe then directly welds into it.

Or I can use one of these rubber ones

http://www.floplast.co.uk/uploads/downloads/SP319_Installation_Layout_1.pdf

It seems to me that whichever way I do it (if I put a new boss on) the amount the boss will stick out will always be roughly the same?

=========

If I want to get the bend as close as I can shall I bung one of these in:

40mm Solvent Weld Waste 90' Spigot Bend - Black | Nationwide Supplies: Builders & Plumbers

That will save me having to get a bend and put a short piece of pipe on it - as I can just stick the long bit into the existing boss.

 

[mo7]

I should add I intend to re-do everything in solvent weld where possible when I replace but I may have to keep the rubber bit on the boss which is already there.

 

[mo7]

OK thinking about it more I reckon I could get a tidier finish with a newer boss. I can see now why the guy used a rubber one because it allows some play with the angle of the next joint which makes sense.

Suggestions on here are to take it off with a chisel and using heat.

Once it is off use sandpaper to flatten it back and then solvent weld a new one on.

That easy?