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After reading various forums on the installation of an Essex Flange, and getting opinions from brilliant and easy to install, to don't touch one with a barge pole, I found this site and would like to know if I fit one, which is recommended with the new shower pump I need to install, should you use any sort of sealant on the rubber washers during fitting. And how do you hold it when doing up the olive nut when fitting the 22mm tube?
I intend to clean the HWC first with Fernox DS3 to make sure there is no scale of the wall to ensure a better seal.
It's quite an extensive job as I have to amend a fair bit of the pipework but this is the only thing that give me any real concern and I would like to be sure that what I do is best practice
Any info on this greatly received.
 
Use the correct size hole cutters specified for the flange.
Before drilling the hole mark the outer circle using the brass washer provided. ( this helps to line up the flange)
Drill hole and file off any sharp edges.
Unravel the metal wire and fit the split washer , rubber washer and then the brass inner flange. ( never use any sealant, paste , or anything else that would make the washer slide)
Insert the wire tail into the cylinder , then the split washer and rubber washer.
Pull the insert back towards you and hold onto the insert.
Fit the rubber washer, brass washer and backnut.
Pull out the wire.
Line the washer up with the pre marked circle and tighten.

Hope I've not made it too complicated as I can fit one quicker than this text.
 
Many thanks for your speedy reply. Definitely no paste or sealant it is then !
I have to replace the immersion heater at the same time so I had thought of drilling the hole as close to the diameter of the thread as possible to get maximum sealing area, and installing the internal parts of the flange through the IH aperture. (Carefully so I don't drop them inside !!!!)
 
Many thanks for your speedy reply. Definitely no paste or sealant it is then !
I have to replace the immersion heater at the same time so I had thought of drilling the hole as close to the diameter of the thread as possible to get maximum sealing area, and installing the internal parts of the flange through the IH aperture. (Carefully so I don't drop them inside !!!!)
There will be a place laid out in the instructions. I would say stick to that mate
 
You are supposed to use sealent paste on the fine threads. Instructions state that.
As to your question about how to hold the flange when doing up the "olive nut" for the pipe, - good question and it just proves what a useless designed fitting it is! It hasn't got anywhere to hold with a spanner and all you can do is use grips on the end of the large threads. Will damage the threads obviously. One tip I would add is have your copper pipe nut & olive connection already compressed using another fitting so you just have to later nip it up without disturbing the Essex flange much.
Personally I wouldn't use Essex flanges as they are leakers. The soft rubber seals cannot take much heat and also go rock hard.
If you have an immersion heater connection on your cylinder, it can be used for putting a standard brass tank connector through a tight fitting drilled hole using just fibre washers or similar.
Edit, - I have just noticed the OP stated he intends replacing the immersion heater at same time. There is the answer to it - Don't use a useless and expensive Essex flange, - just buy brass tank connector, couple of fibre washers and use a piece of wire to drop the tank connector through to a tight drilled hole! That is the professional job, and cheap! Only method I ever use, besides new cylinder with extra tapping.
 
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I like the idea of the tank connector, but I thought tank connectors have a stop so you can't feed a pipe through them. The Essex flange will allow the pipe to pass through such that the end of the pipe is in the middle of the HWC.
 
I have, but shower recommends the Essex, and on a Surrey/Warrix instruction sheet it said you need at least a metre between the flange and the bottom of the cold water tank. As the HWC and CWT are both in the loft space (in a bungalow), I don't have the height to get this separation. I think there is only 550mm.
 
I have, but shower recommends the Essex, and on a Surrey/Warrix instruction sheet it said you need at least a metre between the flange and the bottom of the cold water tank. As the HWC and CWT are both in the loft space (in a bungalow), I don't have the height to get this separation. I think there is only 550mm.

Use an Essex.
I can't remember them not having a full socket stop to be honest but you may be right.
Even if you can push the pipe through the fitting, the end of it does not need to be in the centre of the tank/Cylinder.
 
You might be able to modify a brass tank fitting to allow the copper pipe to pass through
 
You might be able to modify a brass tank fitting to allow the copper pipe to pass through

Even easier if you have a lathe
 
Thanks to all for info....I think I will go with the Essex. ( clean everything, deburr hole, and no sealants)
I am half tempted to see if I could solder the pipe into the fitting and save the problem of having to do up an olive. Good idea in theory but probably not very practical
 
Thanks to all for info....I think I will go with the Essex. ( clean everything, deburr hole, and no sealants)
I am half tempted to see if I could solder the pipe into the fitting and save the problem of having to do up an olive. Good idea in theory but probably not very practical

Yes you could just need to watch the length of the piece of pipe (in regards to fitting and positioning inside the cylinder)
 
Thanks to all for info....I think I will go with the Essex. ( clean everything, deburr hole, and no sealants)
I am half tempted to see if I could solder the pipe into the fitting and save the problem of having to do up an olive. Good idea in theory but probably not very practical

You could have a pipe for inside the tank connected to a tank fitting and you also can cut the end of the pipe at 45 degrees and mark the outside of the tank fitting to show the pipe cut is upwards. (So it is correct position for avoiding drawing in air)
 
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Thanks Best....I'll incorporate that into my final method. Definitely getting there now. Think I'll write the sequence down just to make sure when I do the job I don't forget anything and get it all in the right order.
 
You could actually do it a different method - by using a 28mm brass tank fitting.
Then you just use a 28x22 solder connector, or solder reducer fitting, with the 22mm pushed on through the fitting (by filing the inner stop away). Very easy solution, cheaper, won't leak and perfect.
Or am I a smart bum? :)
 
F1EE3772-3B9B-47D1-BD0F-DC306B6B5C98.jpeg
A91A01C9-7AB8-4580-A16E-64477922192B.jpeg
After all this time have installed the Essex Flange. New immersion heater, and new shower pump. Revised all associated plumbing and hey presto....it all works. Shower is really good and even better no leaks. I still keep checking even though it’s been done over a week ago. Should have more faith in my ability!!!!!
 
Looks good, you sure your not a plumber :)

Also if it hasn't leaked by now it won't
 
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