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leeroy_25

So a couple of months back my heating system pumped packed up. Called a plumber out to fix it and he swapped it over and advised he would change the zone valve while doing the job as this was also quite old and might fail at some point down the road. He also replace the manual air bleed for an auto bleed valve.
So we have a regular old heating system not combi. As in head tank up in the attic, cold water tank up in the attic, hot water tank in airing cupboard on second floor and boiler downstairs.
All was working fine up until the point the pump seized. Straight after the system was running I had a lot of air in the radiators where it had all be drained. but the more I bled the more came back and the tank was bubbling away like a good and the auto bleed hissing air out. We then started getting water coming out of the heating header tank overflow outside. it Turned out where the tank had been drained during the repair the lid had fallen in a jammed the ball valve from shutting properly. But it was not continuous water coming form the overflow. Just when the heating and hot water came on mainly. It appeared as though the hot water tank overflow/vent had become submerged in the over filled tank water and was trying to circulate all around. I mention all this in case it could be related to the remaining issues. with the lid sorted and tank level correct the vent seems to be fine with no fluid coming out. but the tank still bubbles a lot and seems to create air inside which gets bled from the autobleed. The plumber came back thinking maybe some kind of blockage was in the system so put some cleaner in and left it a week or so then came and neutralised it. Still the same. At this point I discovered that the bubbling only occurred when the hot water was switched on. as in boiler.. not immersion. If you ran hot water on it's own as well the bubbling would start. Heating switched on on it's own and all is rosey and the heating is a lot more efficient. Air does not see to get drawn into the system now since bleeding it off and now running the hot water off the immersion so we don't have to put up with the kettling noise coming from the hot tank.
It is hard to say if it originates from the hot tank or boiler as the pipework carries the sound but it is like a surging, kettle boiling kind of sound and definitely pulling air in somewhere as the auto bleed hisses periodically when it is happening. The plumber seems at a bit of a loss what to check next. I have asked if it could be the zone valve somehow he thinks not.. The other thing I would say is the new pump seems to whoosh the water around much faster than the old one to the point you can hear it going around the pipes when it first fires up and sometimes in the night when the house is quiet there is a dull kind of hum from it. Could the pump working to fast cause and issue? Like cavitation or something?
I really hope someone can help shed some light on this as I am not looking forward to the electric bill if we have to stay on the immersion for much longer!
The last point I would like to bring up again as it maybe related is I have noticed that hot water tap on the upstairs basin seems to splutter for a couple of seconds with air the first time you turn it on after running a bath. I am pretty sure it did not do this before. Also the hot pressure downstairs is pretty poor. It has never been great but I am thinking it might be a little worse. We had a strange incident a couple of weeks back.(after new pump bits fitted) where we went to run a bath and ran out of hot water. I think around the time we first switched over to the immersion. In fact I think the day after the noise had been so bad in the night I had to switch off the hot water heating. So the first day we properly went over to immersion. When I say we ran out of water I mean the tap went down to a dribble!
I had this before when the ball valve on the cold tank blocked and the tank drained. I could not check quick enough that day but after the tap managing to clear it's own air lock later in the evening and being able to run a bath again I check the tank and although the level was quite low and the ball valve a bit slower than I would expect to see there was still water there a good few inches above the outlet pipes to the hot water tank. Since then I really noticed this spluttering on the basin hot tap after running a bath?

I think I just wrote a dissertation so sorry if there is a lot to take in but I wanted to get it all out at once in case things are related.
Really hope someone can help.

Thank you
Lee
 
whats the pump speed set on (1,2 or 3) ?
 
Short safe answer _if it sounds dangerous get a pro in .

(I may have a read later - but need to be in right frame of mind ! - Busy day)

( Don't despair - others may be more keen )
 
Whats the mains pressure like ?
Maybe the pump is set to high and when the cws is trying to fill, the hot draw off from the combi can pull air in back through the float valve ...
 
Whats the mains pressure like ?
Maybe the pump is set to high and when the cws is trying to fill, the hot draw off from the combi can pull air in back through the float valve ...

He hasn't got a combi, and how would mains pressure affect the CH pump and vice versa?
 
Whats the mains pressure like ?
Maybe the pump is set to high and when the cws is trying to fill, the hot draw off from the combi can pull air in back through the float valve ...

He hasn't got a combi, and how would mains pressure affect the CH pump and vice versa?
 
Initial thoughts , gurglings have dislodged crud in cylinder near cold incoming feed ,
explaining poor hot water flow .
(Old system many will want to rip out rather than work on )

System drain down may have disturbed plenty.. many possibilities
 
Thanks for the replies.. First of all I will have to try and loom at the pump to see what setting it is on.. It is hard to see where it has been refitted. I assume the suggestion will be to turn it down if it is set on 2 or 3?
As for dislodged crap.. My plumber mentioned something could be stuck near the hot water side of the zone valve? But does not want to drain it to check right now? Due to winter as I said. I am just weighing up potential loss of heating vs massive electric bill for immersion?! Are they that costly to run by comparison? I put it on a few hours each evening to heat water for bath and next morning.
And to confirm about the water pressure the upstairs taps have comparatively good pressure once the basin upstairs stops spluttering that has good pressure. It is just the sink downstairs that hot water pressure is not great? Tried cleaning tap filter out too but even with it completely off pressure is not amazing. Maybe the tap assembly so clogged up?
Any thoughts as to why the upstairs basin splutters for a second each time you turn it on after the bath has been run?
Thank you
Lee
 
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Considering Tap splutter , is immersion heated water any hotter ?
Thinking dissolved air displaced when left to cool .
( more to likely to be an old fashioned air lock - trapped in pipe work )
May need to watch cold tank feeding cylinder , when bath is left to run
(can be hot tap running cool - cylinder no hot left )
...Some splutter is normal ,there is no pressure to keep oxygen dissolved .
 
My plumber mentioned something could be stuck near the hot water side of the zone valve? But does not want to drain it to check right now? Due to winter as I said.
--vs-- Hi Electricity cost

Too true , ( price up an electric shower -if MAINs pressure cold available ! )
 
(after more mulling over)
Ignoring the issues about getting cylinder to heat up , spluttering is probably about attempting to get last bit of water out of cylinder , before attic tank has refilled .
This will introduce air into the hot water pipe work . When flow of hot begins to slow , close tap a little and be patient . Or shut it and wait , sadly running in some cold as you wait may rob the attic tank of its refill water . ( These systems were a work around for poor water pressure) .If you have good cold mains pressure , an electric shower is useful backup .
Flow rate may improve a little if repeated air locks are avoided but a blockage/furred pipes may be the problem !
 
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Thanks for replies.. So the hot water comes out nice an hot from the immersion heated water and I would say hotter than when it is heated but the boiler a bit but that could just be temp setting on the boiler? It has not run out of water again since it did it that day after all the gurgling and air noise in the hot tank? it could just be a coincidence. I checked the cold attic tank and although it gets low after a bath it is not empty and well away from the outlet level to the hot cylinder. The level has been raised slightly to be sure. Maybe that day we just happened to run a really deep bath after running one for the kids not long before? I am not so worried about that though.
The hot doesn't get slow upstairs. it is just downstairs where pressure permanently seems a bit low on the hot side when in theory it should be more due to additional pressure head.
Is there any other way a small bit of air could get into the basin taps when the bath is run. it clears it so I assume it is not an air bubble in the pipe from when it previously went low or could it be? to back pressure it with mains water I need to run a hose up onto the garage roof and in through a window.. not exactly a winters evening job!
As for the bubbling in the tank is it worth turning pump speed down or do you think it is more likely crud in the coil of near the valve or something?
Looks like the pump has 3 lights on it and a button above. I presume the lights come on when it is powered up and the number of lights tell you the speed? It was not running when I had a peep earlier.
Thank you
Lee
 
Thanks for replies.. So the hot water comes out nice an hot from the immersion heated water and I would say hotter than when it is heated but the boiler a bit but that could just be temp setting on the boiler? It has not run out of water again since it did it that day after all the gurgling and air noise in the hot tank? it could just be a coincidence. I checked the cold attic tank and although it gets low after a bath it is not empty and well away from the outlet level to the hot cylinder. The level has been raised slightly to be sure. Maybe that day we just happened to run a really deep bath after running one for the kids not long before? I am not so worried about that though.
The hot doesn't get slow upstairs. it is just downstairs where pressure permanently seems a bit low on the hot side when in theory it should be more due to additional pressure head.
Is there any other way a small bit of air could get into the basin taps when the bath is run. it clears it so I assume it is not an air bubble in the pipe from when it previously went low or could it be? to back pressure it with mains water I need to run a hose up onto the garage roof and in through a window.. not exactly a winters evening job!
As for the bubbling in the tank is it worth turning pump speed down or do you think it is more likely crud in the coil of near the valve or something?
Looks like the pump has 3 lights on it and a button above. I presume the lights come on when it is powered up and the number of lights tell you the speed? It was not running when I had a peep earlier.
Thank you
Lee
 
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