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Discuss How to connect to toilet plastic valve in the Fittings & Pipes area at UKPlumbersForums.co.uk.

  1. kasser

    kasser Member

    I have a flexi pipe currently connecting the isolating valve in the cold feed to the plastic valve at the bottom of my toilet cistern.

    Even I can see that the flexi pipe is bent way too much and way too sharply. Sooner or later, it's going to spring a leak. However, due to the location of both ends, it is not possible to have the flexi pipe any other way. In any case, flexis have a very bad rep on this site.

    So what fitting should I use to connect to the plastic end? The isolating valve will take a compression fitting with female thread at one end I think? Pictures or links will be helpful.
    Thanks.
     
  2. Matchless.plumb

    Matchless.plumb Trusted Plumber Top Contributor!!

    Hi Kasser,

    Welcome along.

    Could I ask you to upload a picture? Perhaps the best way would be ridgid pipework.
     
  3. Harvest Fields

    Harvest Fields Trusted Plumber GSR Top Contributor!!

    Agree with above. A picture would help massively.
     
  4. kasser

    kasser Member

    I don't seem to be able to post a pic. Let's try this dropbox link to the picture:
    Dropbox - toilet.JPG

    Otherwise, it's a very standard connection. Nothing new or unusual at all with the current setup.
     
  5. ShaunCorbs

    ShaunCorbs S. Mod Trusted Plumber GSR Top Contributor!!

    Works ta

    How are you at plumbing diy ?

    You will need 1m length of copper tube (15mm)

    2 x 15mm compression elbows

    1 x 15 -1/2 tap connector compression

    1 x 15mm compression ISO valve (rob the nut and olive off)

    Piece of pipe around 3-4" long out the valve

    Compression elbows like in the pic (the pic is of guttering as I wasn't on my computer to draw it up)

    And then the rest in straigh pipe and tap connector

    Hope you understand if not just shout

    IMG_2782.JPG
     
  6. Harvest Fields

    Harvest Fields Trusted Plumber GSR Top Contributor!!

    Don't mean to sound undermining here. but if you are an advanced DIYer I would solder the fittings and not use compression. It will look much smarter. But if you are not that confident then as above use compression.
     
    • Like Like x 1
  7. ShaunCorbs

    ShaunCorbs S. Mod Trusted Plumber GSR Top Contributor!!

    Or the pro way using a bender :)
     
  8. Harvest Fields

    Harvest Fields Trusted Plumber GSR Top Contributor!!

    I struggle to put 2 x 90 degree bends in 12 inches apart.:p:p I wouldn't attempt that. :p:p:pI would give 2 x 45's a go on a bender though. That might work.
     
  9. ShaunCorbs

    ShaunCorbs S. Mod Trusted Plumber GSR Top Contributor!!

    Problem is most diyers don't have access to trade grade tools
     
  10. Harvest Fields

    Harvest Fields Trusted Plumber GSR Top Contributor!!

    I understand mate. Was just trying to say that even before I was as GSR I would have given soldering a go. However the cost makes no sense if you are only going to use it the once.
     
    • Friendly Friendly x 1
  11. kasser

    kasser Member

    1 x 15 -1/2 tap connector compression - is that what goes on the plastic valve end?
    Is it this one? Why is it so cheap at less than a quid?
    Toolstation sells it at 2 for £4.34.
    Do they always come with a washer inside?

    Compression ISO valve - this one?
    There is already such a valve in place, are you asking me to replace it?

    The only problem with all this is that the 2 elbows next to each other will take too much space. The vertical pipes are nearly aligned to each other. But that wasn't my question anyway - the tap connector was what I was after.

    Bending the pipes would be the solution here I guess, but I don't have one. I might use a piece of plastic pipe and try to bend it ever so slightly, though the pipe will be so short it's going to be hard to, and there won't be clips holding it in place. It might put too much stress on the plastic valve end too.

    Regarding soldering - I don't have the equipment. I'm too nervous too to have a big naked flame like this in the house.

    Thanks.
     
  12. rpm

    rpm Trusted Plumber Top Contributor!!

    If the valve works then there is no need to replace it.

    If you can buy a shorter good quality flexi then loose fit it to the cistern then add a short piece of copper pipe between the flexi and the isolating valve to suit.
    Wouldn`t try and bend plastic pipe to suit that.
     
  13. steadyon

    steadyon Active Member

    Buy a longer flexi and put a loop in it. Crude but effective.
     
  14. Harvest Fields

    Harvest Fields Trusted Plumber GSR Top Contributor!!

    I don't like that. But each to there own.
     
  15. jtsplumbing

    jtsplumbing Plumber GSR

    Cant see where the copper pipe starts, if coming up from floor just lower service valve by 2" (50mm) or so
     
    • Agree Agree x 1
  16. kasser

    kasser Member

    I like that. I'm not a pro plumber, so a quick and easy solution suits me.

    Last night I broke the toilet though! I had changed the siphon for one with an internal overflow. I used the same doughnut washer but it leaked after I put it all back. So I went out and bought a new washer. Still leaking. I over-tightened the bolt and the cistern cracked. Time to get in a proper plumber...

    Is it OK to replace the cistern only? There are not many replacement cisterns out there and they are quite expensive compared to the price of a whole toilet. It would be a shame to throw away existing pan as there is nothing wrong with it. Same with the new siphon I bought as new toilets/cisterns come with siphons I believe.
     
  17. JCplumb

    JCplumb Plumber

    You can just get cisterns, they're not standard though so might not fit properly against your pan.
    New cistern about £40, you can get a bog to go from the big sheds for £50, or a nicer looking one from a merchants for about £80.
    The issue with replacing toilets though is the pans' footprint, sometimes you're left with gaps in the floor covering.
    If the footprint isn't going to be a problem then I'd go with a new loo. If your new valve is a fluidmaster or another decent make you might want to use it in place of the one that comes with the new loo.
     
    • Agree Agree x 1
  18. kasser

    kasser Member

    Footprint no problem. I'm worried about the cistern not fitting properly against the pan. This is what happened last time, it was leaking just there despite replacing the doughnut washer and I ended up overtightening and breaking the cistern.

    I saw a toilet selling at £40 on Cheapsuites. Not worth buying a cistern at £80 which may not fit right. If you think the quality of a £40 toilet is going to be rubbish, I saw others at around £80, some more, some less.

    Yes, I did replace with fluidmaster.
     
  19. Harvest Fields

    Harvest Fields Trusted Plumber GSR Top Contributor!!

    You would be better off just changing the whole toilet. Cuts all the hassle out of I am honest.
     
  20. kasser

    kasser Member

    Anything specific I should look for in a new close-coupled toilet?
     
  21. rpm

    rpm Trusted Plumber Top Contributor!!

    A decent sized cistern to flush things fully away first time
     
  22. kasser

    kasser Member

    Aren't they all 6 L now? The one I broke was massive. Shame it's gone.
     
  23. rpm

    rpm Trusted Plumber Top Contributor!!

    As I non pro do you want to be spending time screwing brackets to the floor to fix the pan to?
     
  24. kasser

    kasser Member

    I wouldn't be changing the toilet myself :)
     
    • Like Like x 1
  25. Harvest Fields

    Harvest Fields Trusted Plumber GSR Top Contributor!!

    Yes mate all new toilets have a smaller water level.
     
  26. rpm

    rpm Trusted Plumber Top Contributor!!

    Fill valve on the right (same as the old one).
     
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