leak on cylinder HELP

[katedolly]

hi,i have a indirect vented cylinder which has a leak coming from between a flanged nut and the cylinder itself on the flow inlet of the indirect coil.It is a pre insulated telford cylinder about ten years old.Is it possible to get this flanged nut undone without damaging the cylinder or coil to replace an 1 1/4" washer.Where can i get one as no b and q type shops have them and are they just fibre washers

 

[Barry98]

hey kate welcome to the forums , can you post a pic up so we can have a alook

 

[SafeGasInstall]

off course mate ,pls post a picture of airing cupboard were the leak is we might be able to help

 

[katedolly]

hope this will help

 

[itspaul]

the problem is the washer is on the inside of the cylinder it may tighten but it could make the leak worse ....... are you sure its not the compression nut and its tracking along the threads ?

 

[katedolly]

No its defo coming from the top of the flanged nut.Any suggestions or is it a new cylinder.

 

[SafeGasInstall]

last call will be drain down and apply LSX , i would not disturb it when cylinder is full !

 

[Barry98]

i recon your looking at a new cylinder imho , i think you will struggle to not do any more damage if you tried to replace, but wont hurt to try

 

[secret squirrel]

I agree with the new cylinder, if you bear that in mind when someone comes round to quote you on it.

Once you drain it out, fill it up and it still leaks, you'll have to start again etc. Sometimes its just easier to go for the more expensive option at least that way your starting with everything new.....

 

[SPH]

If it is only a small leak and you dont want to fork out the price for a new cylinder i would recommend draining the cylinder dry up the joint and apply fernox Lsx let it dry and then refill cylinder slowly if it hold then great stuff but keep an eye on it as could poss start leaking again, if it does leak then it time for a new cylinder where about are you located will can quote if you need replacement cylinder.

www.shawsplumbingandheating.co.uk

 

[SPH]

if i want to save money i would try the the drain down with Lsx if doesnt work new cylinder required.

 

[Hardy1]

agree with SPH^

 

[scotty plumber]

I agree with the new cylinder

 

[WHPES]

New cylinder for that? Just for a leaky washer? You gotta be joking man! Would you replace a toilet every time the cistern was overflowing?

Drain it off, remove the cylinder, cut back a bit of the foam and put a bit of heat on the flaged nut. Undo carefully, remove debris of washer, fit new washer with some jointing paste and hemp and boss white round the thread (or use hemp and boss white instead of the washer) Tighten up, put cylinder back and job done.

 

[REDSAW]

for less than a fiver get some lsx and apply in thin layers giving 10-15min per application with the tank full.
may need upto 8-10 go's untill it stops or even the whole tube depends on the rate of the weep.
you may also require a new cylinder in the future looking at the corrosion at the bottom of flange?
if you live in nottinghamshire, forget that and give me a call, it may be serious....

 

[WHPES]

You need to undo the flanged nut whatever. Can't see anything sealing without doing it properly.

There may be some corrosion round the fitting but nine times out of 10 it just needs a clean up and new washer.

 

[REDSAW]

done one or two now on dodgy cylinders where you cant access the joint.
keep the first layer or two moving around before it sets eventually seals.

 

[Best]

If no corrosion, I would fix the leak. Better to replace the washer with a new fibre one outside, or just flax & boss white as Whpes has said, rather than a temp repair. Boss White will seal just about anything that has hot water through it. I have fixed a lot similar leaks & they will last.

 

[Puddle]

You need to undo the flanged nut whatever. Can't see anything sealing without doing it properly.

There may be some corrosion round the fitting but nine times out of 10 it just needs a clean up and new washer.

As Whpes say's,follow his advise and do the job properly,start bodging and it always end in tears ,can not see a problem in repairing the cylinder,normal plumbing task

imho

 

[WHPES]

BG would probably advise a powerflush and replacing the cylinder :devilish:

 

[tamz]

i would not disturb it when cylinder is full !

Fearty :lol:

 

[SPH]

At the end of the day it all comes down to cost if you want a proper job done change the cylinder, to keep the cost done just shut down the supply to the cylinder drain it down apply Lsx around the flange let it dry then repeat let it dry and refill cylinder slowly job done.
But if the leak is leaking alot then dont bother i would just change the cylinder, what you dont want is to mess about trying to repair the flange seal /nut and poss make it worse.

 

[Megaflo-Experts]

I would suggest trying the LSX which is easy to do and you'll know if it works or not without any risk of making it worse...if that makes sense!

 

[SimonJohns]

personally i think lsx used in that way is such an amateur job,

walk away or replace imo

 

[REDSAW]

guys, guys, guys......

i appriciate what you are saying, do the job properly and strip it down etc.

i mentioned smearing some lsx around the flange nut as i believe it is just weeping, which may or may not solve it.

however, without judging the abilities of the original poster, do you think messing around with tank unions and a cylinder full of water is wise at the best for diyer when for £3-4 SHE can try a temp solution HERSELF before calling in a plumber?????????