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Discuss Loft Tank renewal question a bit urgent as our ceilings have collapsed lol in the Plumbing Jobs | The Job-board area at PlumbersForums.net

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hi

I have a leak in the bottom of my loft water tank, I think it's a 50 gallon one but I'm not sure. The measurements are 45inches by 23inches wide,23inches deep
It's going to be really hard to get it out and to replace it as it seems to have been built into place I might get it out if I remove the heating header tank but I'm not sure.

I am thinking of using a smaller tank to make it easier to fit. There is only myself and my wife so I think that would be ok.
I am just a bit worried that we would lose a lot of hot water pressure I only have about 1 metre of head to the shower.
So I was wondering if it would make a lot of difference, what do you think?

I have rung 4 plumbers so far and told them that our ceiling have collapsed but in two days none have returned my call??
so it looks like I'll have to do it myself. :banghead:

I have done a fair bit of plumbing in the past so I'll be all right doing it. Its just I'm getting on a bit now and It would be nice not to.

thanks in advance for any advice

Mike
 
Hi Mike and welcome to the forum. There's a lot of reliable and quality tradesmen on this forum. Why not put an ad here...[DLMURL="http://www.ukplumbersforums.co.uk/im-looking-plumber-gas-engineer/"]I'm looking for a Plumber or Gas Engineer[/DLMURL]

Good luck
 
Sounds like you got the old square galvanised one ! if so these are quite heavy, and don't try to cut it up fumes are very nasty, if space is tight then go for a coffin tank ! have you informed your insurance co about your problem ??
 
Most people leave the old tank in the loft, tuck it away in the corner somewhere.
Modern plastic tanks can be folded up a bit to get them through a small loft hatch. But round tanks are particularly easy to squeeze through. Fold the sides down into the tank and tie it with rope, then a bit of brute force and ignorance will do the rest.
 
Sounds like you got the old square galvanised one ! if so these are quite heavy, and don't try to cut it up fumes are very nasty, if space is tight then go for a coffin tank ! have you informed your insurance co about your problem ??

Not sure I'm going to claim yet, will wait and see what the quotes are like.
Last time we claimed they put our insurance up so much It wasn't really worth it.
 
Most people leave the old tank in the loft, tuck it away in the corner somewhere.
Modern plastic tanks can be folded up a bit to get them through a small loft hatch. But round tanks are particularly easy to squeeze through. Fold the sides down into the tank and tie it with rope, then a bit of brute force and ignorance will do the rest.

I've ordered one from screwfix now. It just squeezes through the loft hatch I hope,
It's a bit longer than the old one but again I think I can get it in by moving the C/H header tank.
Thanks
 
Mike, if the the old tank can be turned down end ways it sometimes will fit through the trap door. It can involve first removing any batons that hold some of the doors. That's if the hole is big enough. You need a few extra hands to do this though. The water needs siphoned out of old tank and also best to get all the leftover water and rust removed. This will mean the tank will be much lighter and no risk of rusty water going everywhere.
I personally like the round tanks because they are far superior to rectangular designs as evenly strong. The base for plastic tanks needs to be flat and well strengthened and supported.
Do not be rough pushing a plastic tank into attic as they are very easily damaged if folded or scratched.
 
I forgot to mention that pipe connections must not be drilled close together! You really need to keep them far apart and on rectangular tanks keep each drill hole on one section of the tank.
You will probably need new tank fittings, new valves (preferably lever) and part 2 ball valve etc.
 
Thank for your advice much appreciated.
a round tank wouldn't fit I think.

I have ordered all new fittings and The tank comes with a kit with new ball valve etc.
 
You might want to have a look at water bylaw 30 regs before fitting the tank. Just google water bylaw 30.
 
Thanks for that link
I think I knew most things but I was surprised that I should not use any jointing compound as I do usually use a bit of 'Tru-Blu' thread sealant on most fittings just to be on the safe side.
I won't now obviously!
 
Thanks for that link
I think I knew most things but I was surprised that I should not use any jointing compound as I do usually use a bit of 'Tru-Blu' thread sealant on most fittings just to be on the safe side.
I won't now obviously!

You can use ptfe tape on the threads of brass tank connectors to seal that joint, (although the inner washer if it is rubber will seal fine).
Obviously no ptfe tape should be used on compression threads (an obvious DIY pointless mistake).
Use paste on olives on compression joints no problem though. It is only the plastic of the tank that the manufactorer doesn't want any chemicals near, so to stop the slight possibilities of damage to tank. I have never seen sealants causing damage, but definitely Boss White damages plastic ball valves on toilet cisterns.
 
When you consider the age of the housing stock in the UK and how many properties don't have insulated and sealed bylaw 30 tanks it's a wonder more folks don't come down with tummy bugs in the summer. Especially when the weather is like it is now. I was in a loft last week and it was 110F and they where using tanked water to brush teeth with!
 
Yes my old one is full of muck, new one looks good, hope to get it in today!
I'd rather ll my cold water was mains I might do this as I can route the tank supply mains round to the taps outlet from the tank and do away with it.
 
do I need a plastic washer on the outside of a tank connector?
if so why do they not supply them?
they supply the rubber one for the inside!

if I need the plastic washer i cant do the work today I will have to wait till the shops are open tomorrow:ack2:
 
do I need a plastic washer on the outside of a tank connector?
if so why do they not supply them?
they supply the rubber one for the inside!

if I need the plastic washer i cant do the work today I will have to wait till the shops are open tomorrow:ack2:

Yes, you really should be using plastic washers on outside of tank fittings.
They not only add another seal to the joint, but they allow the brass nut to spin against the washer, rather than the tank. Because your fittings have a rubber washer on the inside, I must admit it would work without a plastic washer on the outside though.
B&Q or Screwfix would probably have washers and open today. As are some plumbing merchants
 
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Bear in mind you need to leave some room between cistern and rafters for maintenance, insulation and open vent pipe.
 
Yes Tank is in awkward place but I suspect most are.
The new tank is not a high as the old one so ther is more room than before

Thanks
 
I wouldn't worry excessively about the pressure. The 'static pressure' is relative in direct proportion to the height of the water level above the tap. The actual flow rate from the tap will be relative to the working pressure and this is dictated by the staitic pressure AND the length and bore of pipework, any restrictions through valves, joints etc and I doubt you'll be changing the latter significantly.
 
Yes my old one is full of muck, new one looks good, hope to get it in today!
I'd rather ll my cold water was mains I might do this as I can route the tank supply mains round to the taps outlet from the tank and do away with it.

I would definitely do that if you can, also would mean less time to fill cwt when using the bath.
 
I would definitely do that if you can, also would mean less time to fill cwt when using the bath.

Turns into a big job when you find the cylinder is connected to the tank tho
 
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