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Hi guys,

I have been having an issue with my toilet blocking for the last few days and I am hoping someone with some experience can offer some advice.

The toilet seems to block over time (1-2 days) It can be solids or toilet paper, it doesn't seem to matter.
I can always plunge it out but it always comes back after 1-2 days (the longer I leave the block the easier it is to plunge)
The block is basically the water filling to the bowl and slowly draining out.

My manhole is shared (neighbors garden) so I have called my water company who came out and checked their piping system and they have stated that it was all clear and must be a problem internally to the house.

What should I do next? Is this a job for a plumber or a drain cleaner?

Thanks
 
any chances in your plumbing system / drainage in the last week?
 
I sealed this shower literally the day before but I cannot see how it could be related? other than that nothing...

Gap between shower frame and tray?

Initially the shower and bath did cause the toilet to "gurgle" when it was blocked (doesn't seem to do it anymore though) but after some investigation they both look like they exit the building via different pipe to the toilet.
 
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Have you changed the toilet ?

Also what type of pan connector is it ?

(If you don't know can you take a pic of the drain connector to the toilet)
 
I once wiped excess silicone off with bog paper and flushed it - well you can guess the rest...

How much silicone was on it ??
 
I'd rather not say :mad: - well actually very little, but I think it caught on the S trap and held there a while, it actually just made the pan fill for a day until presumably the paper fell apart?
 
I think there's your problem esp if it was fine before that

Best to remove the toilet and have a look at the trap from both ends
 
Have you changed the toilet ?

Also what type of pan connector is it ?

(If you don't know can you take a pic of the drain connector to the toilet)

No, its the same toilet. I'll get a picture of it.

I once wiped excess silicone off with bog paper and flushed it - well you can guess the rest...

This has crossed my mind but I am 99% sure I didn't do this.... and even still surely it wouldn't last this long
 
I think there's your problem esp if it was fine before that

Best to remove the toilet and have a look at the trap from both ends

Is it straight forward to do, removing a toilet? do I need to prepare my self with anything other than the obvious? Wax ring?
 
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Picture of connector

IMG_4655.JPG
 
Depends on what type of toilet you have but you shouldn't need anything unless you split the base from the cistern
 
The flexi police will be along shortly...

Why will they ?

Aslong as there not under stress and aren't kinky there fine
 
Looks to me it fails on both counts then?

Looks fine to me don't forget it reflects light so looks like it is kinked but it's not
 
Just the reverse curve then, not that I object to flexi use for even hot hidden use for me personally, as I know I'm taking a risk, but for punters it's really only for cold unpressurised if hidden and 'secret' - so not many uses really?
 
Just the reverse curve then, not that I object to flexi use for even hot hidden use for me personally, as I know I'm taking a risk, but for punters it's really only for cold unpressurised if hidden and 'secret' - so not many uses really?

??
 
No smooth curve from isovalve to inlet so curves beyond and back, that isn't strain free. Flexi's aren't good for pressure or heat so only good for cold tank water - if hidden sods law will have it blow within a month of plumber retiring/moving/changing co. name.
 
No smooth curve from isovalve to inlet so curves beyond and back, that isn't strain free. Flexi's aren't good for pressure or heat so only good for cold tank water - if hidden sods law will have it blow within a month of plumber retiring/moving/changing co. name.

It's only to fill a toilet so no high demand and pressure there fine upto 10 bar and think it's 80dc but agree don't hide them eg using them for shower valves etc is a Nono
 
Right guys so to update this.

The toilet last night blocked again but this time I couldn't plunge it out!!

Anyway after some investigation it turns out we have a HomeServe policy which covers this.

Their plumber came out this morning and after pulling the toilet out he couldn't find a block.

After some thinking he decided to pull the air admittance valve (located in the extension roof) and it worked, the toilet instantly drained and was back to normal.

He had a spare in his van which he replaced the old one with and initially the block returned :(
He then played around with it for a bit and now everything is working again, fully flushing.
He stated that he had to tilt the valve slightly which has allowed more air in but the rubber pipe was still fully connected so no smells can escape so should be fine.
He also said his valve has been in his van for a long time so it could also be faulty and if it does happen again I should buy a new one and try that.

The other option is to re-route the pipe through the extension roof and back up to the original position on the roof. Is this a big job for a plumber? and would I also need a roofer for this?

Apart of me thinks there is a block somewhere... the plumber says there isn't one in my system because if there was, it wouldn't go down the waste pipe which makes sense and the water company couldn't find a issue with my external system from the neighbors manhole.
So could there be a block further down the line? Looking at my neighbors house they all have there waste pipes leading to roof so I guess if there was, my house would be see the issues because of the air admittance valve.

Any thoughts on this?

Anyway my toilet is back working so fingers crossed it stays this way..

Thanks
 
Id say you still have a partiall blockage in the line fron your toilet to your manhole...
You could flush a good bit of paper down and have someone watch the line at the manhole to see if the paper flows through
 
Yeah I kind of think the same but because we have a shared manhole (next door) it is making it much harder to diagnose unfortunately.

How do drains companies usually clean drains? Jet from outside or could they also do it via the air admittance valve?

Could I use a snake or something from the top of the waste pipe?

Thanks
 
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They could jet back from your manhole to your toilet. Or jet down from the aav. Personally flushing a few loads of toilet paper down and checking the manhole, 2 man job. Would show if your line is blocked. Next door will have a seperate line
 
Hi all,

I thought I would update this in case anyone else has the same issue.

It turns out sammathias was correct, there was a partial block somewhere on the line.
About 1 month later (when I noticed anyway) our outside drain gully started backing up and slowly draining away (this links to the main soil stack)

So I got the Pros back in and this time the gully was jetted and eventually "whoosh", down went the build up of water.
Along with that came the sewer stench where the plumber had incorrectly fitted the aav!
I assume the blockage was stopping the smells coming through.

I have now refitted the valve correctly and so far everything has been fine since (touches wood)
 
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