Pressure testing - how do I do this ?

[edwardk]

Hi there - currently putting in copper / yorkshire 15mm / 22mm pipework in my house for hot/cold and central heating.

How do I pressure test this ?

Should I be testing it in sections as I go or do you cap it all off at the end and then pressure test ?
Or both ?

Also my brother mentioned that you can do this by hand with a hand pump but another mate used a compressor I think ?

Any tips on kit to buy for this ? So far have tectite compression fit caps.

Presumably this is something that I can do myself ?

Thanks,
Ed

 

[Plumbstar Tom]

depends on your experience with regards to whether you test in sections or at the end

and again price wise for the test kit, normally i use a hydraulic action pump

 

[Alanc]

You could link all your pipes together then leave off a Tee for a pressure gauge/ hand pump.

your home should NOT be occupied during the test for safety reasons.

Al

 

[edwardk]

I am inexperienced so I guess if I test twice that would be a good failsafe ?
i.e. test in sections as I go then test each full line once completed.

As for a "hydraulic action pump" do you mean something like this :
Monument Dry Pressure Test Kit - NoLinkingToThis, Where the Trade Buys

I guess I would need something like a bike pump with a schrader head ?

Or is there a better bit of kit to buy ?
I need something reliable but after this house the only bit of plumbing I'll be doing is maybe helping my brother with his house.

I guess dry testing is what I want. Easier to fix the joins.
In the case of a leaking join can I just heat it up again and add more solder or should I heat it up - remove it - clean the pipe ends and then re-flux and solder in a fresh fitting ?
Ed

 

[Alanc]

This pump here would do the job, you may be able to hire it for the day.
Rothenberger RP30 Pressure Testing Pump - NoLinkingToThis, Where the Trade Buys
Al

 

[edwardk]

Any thoughts on this one ? : Rothenberger Dry Pressure Testing Kit - 6.7105 Se::Tools4Trade.com

Just need a foot pump now...

 

[WHPES]

You could probably do it with a bike pump or a car foot pump.

In the trade we usually use a wet test pump such as a Hilmor or Rigid pump as it is easier to see pressure drops when the system is full of water (water doensn't compress).

 

[migoplumber]

or an air compressor from shed for 30quid.

 

[edwardk]

Guess I could go the route of a little wet pump thing for about £150.
Then try and pass it on or flog it on eBay.

Will have a look for Hilmor or Rigid etc.

Guess wet test is better - should have thought of the air/water compression thing... doh !

Ed

 

[migoplumber]

you do the air pressure test first, that way of you have a leak nothing gets wet !
then a good 6 bar water test !

 

[edwardk]

Thanks - from looking at the hand ones with a tray/dial/pump it looks like you could do the air test with the same kit then put water in the tray and do the wet test ?

Can you do the dry and wet test with the same kit ?

Sorry prob an obvious question but all new to me

Ed

Is this one ok ? http://www.tradecounterdirect.com/p...71&cat=PLUMBING TOOLS: Pressure Testing &pg=1

[DLMURL]https://www.coopersdirect.com/pageview.php?page=category_show&ecommerce_category=Rothenberger+Pressure+Test+Pumps[/DLMURL]

Went for the RP30 from these guys (£93 with p+p in the end) - they wanted £141 locally...

 

[edwardk]

Right - got the Rothenberger RP30 and had a quick question about it. The end is a screw thread - how is this connected to the copper ? I have a spare locksheild kicking around can I just screw the tapered end of the lockshield into the RP30 then attach it to the copper ?

Or is there a compression fitting that I should be using ?

I was going to cap off the rest of the pipework with Tectite caps and test each run individually by pressuring it with air to about 4 bar for about 30 minutes - correct approach ?

Then do the same with water.

Cheers
Ed

 

[fuzzy]

I have never bothered with a dry test or ever seen it done on a wet system. Makes sense i suppose. Have you never had the problem with it holding air but not water? I have seen un soldered fittings hold for years!!!!!!!!!!

 

[john.bell55]

Right - got the Rothenberger RP30 and had a quick question about it. The end is a screw thread - how is this connected to the copper ? I have a spare locksheild kicking around can I just screw the tapered end of the lockshield into the RP30 then attach it to the copper ?

Or is there a compression fitting that I should be using ?

I was going to cap off the rest of the pipework with Tectite caps and test each run individually by pressuring it with air to about 4 bar for about 30 minutes - correct approach ?

Then do the same with water.

Cheers
Ed

You can use a JG Speedfit straight, easy to disconnect from the tested pipework.
Pushfit end caps will do for the ends, (easy to disconnect after the test)

 

[tackleburger]

If you are going to do the air test only raise it to 1 bar at the very most and 30 minutes is plenty. Test the pipework to 5 bar wet and leave for a good couple of hours if you can. You need a 1/2 bsp mail iron to 15mm compression fitting for the roth cost about a quid from any merchant and no you can't air test with the rp 30 it only works with water.

 

[edwardk]

Got a 1/2" BSP male / 15mm tectite straight join and it seems to fit - not sure if they saw me coming but it cost 4 quid ?!

Will have a go at wet testing tomorrow.... might end up a little drenched... not overly confident with my joints but see what happens.

Thanks for the advice.
Ed

 

[Plucky]

I dry test with a compressor first. Cost about £40 from B & Q.

I have on a couple of occasions found a small drop on a test with air but once full with water system is fine. Odd.

 

[oilman]

an easy explanation is air think of 02 ie 2 molecules side by side ie narrow x wide
h20 water is triangular in construction so will always be bigger and not get out of tiny gaps

 

[WHPES]

You need to do your tests in accordance with BS 6700 (if my memory serves me right).

The reason why wet testing is used as opposed to dry testing is that liquids cannot be compressed in everyday life (as opposed to quantum physics) and so it is easier to see a pressure drop.

 

[tackleburger]

Using a compressor is foolhardy, dangerous (air compresses) and wholly unecessary. A quick air test with a footpump to 1 bar is more than enough if it passes that get the wet tester on it and raise the pressure nice and steady.

 

[WHPES]

Yes I missed that post. I would change "plucky" to "foolhardy"!

There's too much stored energy in compressed air which would make it dangerous if it failed!

Use the proper kit!

 

[edwardk]

Sorry for all the 'probably-obvious' questions but here is another one...

Anyone care to write a few lines on a step by step approach to wet testing ?
My plan was to cap off and then fill from the highest point - then compress with the wet test kit (Rothenberger RP30).
Leave it at 5 bar wet for two hours.
Bit stumped on releasing the pressure as I can see me doing this wrong and drenching the house...
lso obviously drain off from the lowest point - guess you just take the cap off and fit a hosepipe to drain outside?

Also - what is the easiest way to ease off tectite caps ?

Ed

 

[WHPES]

The test pump has a wheel valve which lets the pressure out.

You need to follow the British Standard for testing. Can't remember exactly off the top of my head but there are different tests depending on if you have any plastic components in your system. Will look for it later tonight as I need to refresh my own memory anyway.

The test pump should have a wheel on it to let the pressure off at the end.

 

[john.bell55]

Non plastic...1 1/2 times operating pressure for 1 hour.
Plastic.... Here is a lift out of John Guest Site
On completion of the plumbing and heating system it is essential that system checking and a hydraulic wet test takes place. Connections to boilers, radiators and sanitary ware should first be capped or plugged.
Testing Should be carried out at 2 bar for 10 minutes followed by 10
bar for 10 minutes.
This testing combined with other relevant checks, should reveal most system problems. Any components within the system not designed to
take these pressures should be disconnected.

Cheers
P.S. check mains pressure, e.g. 3 bar then test would be 4.5 bar

 

[edwardk]

All copper with yorkshire fittings - no plastic.

Guess you cap off at rads rather than include them in the test ?

Thanks
Ed

 

[sparky]

Link the whole system to be tested with plastic. Link hot and cold at at least one point and link rads to hot and cold somewhere. All other open ends put a stop en on.

 

[fuzzy]

Sorry for all the 'probably-obvious' questions but here is another one...

Anyone care to write a few lines on a step by step approach to wet testing ?
My plan was to cap off and then fill from the highest point - then compress with the wet test kit (Rothenberger RP30).
Leave it at 5 bar wet for two hours.
Bit stumped on releasing the pressure as I can see me doing this wrong and drenching the house...
lso obviously drain off from the lowest point - guess you just take the cap off and fit a hosepipe to drain outside?

Also - what is the easiest way to ease off tectite caps ?

Ed

5bar is too much. Rule of thunb is 1.5times the working pressure for an hour. If this is a heating system the direct cold will give you the pressure you need often and enough without needing a test pump.
drain offs at the bottom of the system are for draining off

 

[edwardk]

Right only just got round to doing the pressure test due to one thing and another.

Have it set at 4 bar and am planning on leaving it for an hour.

This approach ok ?

(central heating - all copper)

So far no leaks Give it time - am expecting a few...

Ed

 

[kirkgas]

register with ukcopperclub, they have tons of download info, great section on pressure testing, hire a pressure tester dont buy one, if it costs £150 you will be lucky to get half back, speedy, HSS etc will have the correct machine, rough guide is to test at 1.5 x actual pressure for 1hr (if no plastic pipe or connections on the system) i would test once when finished as long as there is access to all pipe and connections (a "just in case" emotion), if other work will mean pipework being boxed in etc then best to test as you go,

DOH, dont know why i didnt read/notice the rest of the posts on this, all my advise is too late (apart from ukcopperclub which is superb, and will come in handy for something else) only thing i would add is dont test plastic fitting at 1.5 x pressure for an hour, it might blow off and take someone's eye out

 

[edwardk]

Thanks - I am currently testing at this very moment with an RP30 at 4 bar pressure.

Been that pressure for the last hour so am guessing that the flow circuit is ok.

Off to test the return circuit now.

Was going to link it all up but I thought that I could control a leak in each run more easily and have the time to test.

As for 1.5 times actual pressure - what is normal / standard actual pressure ?

All the local plumbers say pressure is 'quite high' where I am located and recommend having a pressure regulator.
Am going to fit one but am guessing that this is on the cold only in pipe - either just after it enters the house (eie under kitchen sink where it changes from outside alcathene to copper) or just at the boiler connection end of the cold feed ?

 

[oilman]

The mains pressure is different all over the area to identify your local pressure you need to get a tester most come with a 3/4" female thread to connect to a garden tap. Just had another thought on your RP30 connect that to the supply mains after the check valve and it will indicate the incoming mains pressure, do check that the thumbwheel is turned off first though.

 

[Colin2010]

Hi Guys
First post and its a question regarding a Rothenberger RP-50 test pump
What type of grease do you use to lubricate the piston via the grease nipple? silicon, lithium or something else?
I don`t see anything mentioned in the destructions and i didn`t want to risk using the wrong type in case it eats the seals. I`m not 100% sure how to tell when it needs greasing. The handle seems to require a decent old upward jolt to get it moving initially so i guess thats probably a good indicator?

Would appreciate some advice from someone who has the t-shirt and hat

Best regards
colin

 

[Bernie2]

Err!

We did not pressure test much of our work in many of the companies I worked for, except when asked.

The companies outlook seemed to be simple "Your a professional Plumber, your work should be of such a quality it doesn't leak" and "If it does leak you are responsible!"

Basically it meant you would probably get the sack if you had leaks.

Bit crazy really, how could you test pipework to 1.5 times max working pressure without a test?

But there you are!

And I may add, the Plumbing companies where often big specialist contractors, doing industrial/commercial work, not small domestic contractors.

Funny really, after working on the industrial for a few years with industrial sized pipes, going back on to domestic was like working with string for pipes.

But then the only difference really was the size of pipe. They would throw a "comic" at you and say "Go do that". Sometimes there would be nothing there bar an empty field and you where required to imagine and work out before the building was built where your first fix pipes would wind up. And of course you where also required to install them.

So you either got it right or you didn't. If you where to far out, it was time to think about looking for another job.

So if your going to work on the likes of new build industrial work, try to pick up some basic surveying techniques, they are always handy anyway.

 

[Dan]

I'm just bumping this thread for no particular reason. If it isn't a current topic, don't worry about it, just ignore it and it'll move off the forum list before long. If it is a topic you'd like to reply to though, go ahead.

 

[jambo]

Quick question on this how is the braided hose on RP30 connected to hit & cold pipe work for testing same question for central heating pipe work