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newbuild100

Long story. Im about to do a bit of work on my hot water system at home. The system whilst old, works fine but im about to replace a gate valve (to the rads) with a electrically operated valve. (If I want hot water to the rads, I simply open the gate valve which allows hot water to the CH system) Theres is a danfoss 715 timer installed to fire up the pump/boiler

Im confident of doing the pipework but ill be unsure about the wiring in the timer, when I come to wire up the new valve.
Ive made drawings of the present wiring in the timer, and have pictures.
Theres three lots of wires at present by the way, (boiler wire) (wire from a wall socket to fire the timer itself,) (and a wire to the pump)

Can anyone help re which wire (on the new valve) should go where in the timer please ??????

Much obliged
 
Yes. Post a pic, Let us know what you have.

Type of system
Which Boiler
Is it fully pumped or gravity etc
 
Yes. Post a pic, Let us know what you have.

Type of system
Which Boiler
Is it fully pumped or gravity etc
 
The system is fully pumped, and with a Gloworm boiler. The system is old BUT it works fine apart from the slight hassle of said valve. I intend selling the house in about a year so dont want to spend lots on upgrades. I can post pics and sketches ive made on here, tomorrow probably. Im a mech fitter with 40 years expereince so im confident of doing the pipework BUT the wiring up of the new valve in to the present timer is another matter.
 
Here goes then. Included are some pictures of what ive got and a small wiring diagram of the timer from the danfoss brochure. Whilst the timer works for the system as it is, once I wire up the new valve, I think it may need altering slightly (??????!!) If I can explain more about the wiringat present. Theres the cable coming into the timer to actually power the timer itself. (brown to live/blue to neutral/yellow to earth)
The cable to the boiler . . . .(yellow to earth/blue to neutral/brown to terminal 4). The cable to the pump. . . .(red to terminal 4/green to earth/black to neutral)

When the timer and new valve are wired up corrctly, should the brown and red (boiler wire and pump wires to terminal 4) be switched to terminal 3 ? (ie to fire up "On DHW"), and then use terminal 4 to fire up the valve im putting, ie, to open said valve. (Even if im right, and theres four wires on the new valve, my loose theory doesnt tell me where any of those 4 wires go in the timer ???????!


 

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image.jpg

1 live
2 neutral
6 live heating (on)

That's what you have at the timer
 
Last edited:
Yes I can see that but that's been inside my head for the last thirty years Shaun LOL

It's the OP pics I wanted to see. Do you know how I get to see them ?

I don't think it's me, a lot of people say they struggle seeing pics

Thanks for trying Shaun
 
Yes I can see that but that's been inside my head for the last thirty years Shaun LOL

It's the OP pics I wanted to see. Do you know how I get to see them ?

I don't think it's me, a lot of people say they struggle seeing pics

Thanks for trying Shaun
 
Well folks, all the work i wanted to do has now been done. Old gate valve changed for electrically operated one. I drained the full system completely, BUT theres another problem. The bolier will only stays lit for a few minutes before cutting out. Many moons ago, after draining the system down to change a rad, the same thing happened and i took a while to suss out that the ballcock was stuck in the tank (in the loft), thus starving the boiler of water. A quick tap solved that and the whole system has been fine since. Not this time though. The tank has adequate water.
Clues are as follows . . . .
I have bled all rads.
I have taked the little bleed screw out of the middle of the pump, the pump spins ok.
Its a Glow worm (Space saver) boiler and at its lowest point, there is "bleed screw". If i connect a hosepipe to the screw and undo it (and put the other end of the hose in water) there seems to be air in it. A lot of air ! I left the screw undone for 30 mins or so, and whilst i can hear/see water being replaced in the tank, still air is coming out ! I get the impression air would continue to be expelled if i left it !

Any clues anyone ????
 
Sounds like air lock , keep draining the air out
 
Make sure the valve is opened before trying to fill the system. Also check that the valve does not isolate any vents or cold feeds while on hot water only.
 
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