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SimonG

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Been to look at a job this afternoon. Workshop being converted into a house.

Current floor is 3" concrete on top of 3" of kingspan.

Customers looking for best options.

I was thinking of an overlay system to directly on top of concrete floor.

Opinions?
 
I would think the same if they can take the height rise
 
The only concern for me is the insulation.

They have allowed for 3 to 4" floor height increase.
 
What are they looking at for floor covering ?
 
Engineered oak flooring throughout the ground floor and tiles in the bathroom.
 
Engineered oak flooring throughout the ground floor and tiles in the bathroom.

Overlay then

You could marmox insulation board it first with 20mm depending on how thick your panels are

For extra insulation
 
But don’t forget due to wooden oak floor you will loose quite a bit of heat I believe it was about 23-26watts on a meter square. I was wrong before so don’t judge if I am a little wrong.
 
Been to look at a job this afternoon. Workshop being converted into a house.

Current floor is 3" concrete on top of 3" of kingspan.

Customers looking for best options.

I was thinking of an overlay system to directly on top of concrete floor.

Opinions?
Perhaps gypsum boards with ready grooved runs for the pipe. On top of it you could use self levelling compound and then oak wood on top. Uheat is very good with the low profile ufh
 
Why o why use engineered oak on top of underfloor heating its got to be the worst conductor of heat there is, theres a maximum floor tempreture you can heat the stuff to aswell , may look good to start with but gaps will soon open up and the planks will swell and will become uneven , a far better option would be a overlay system with a cement based board on top with either a tiled finish or a Karndean type floor finish these look really good when done professionally hard to tell the difference from a wooden floor . cheers kop
 
Why o why use engineered oak on top of underfloor heating its got to be the worst conductor of heat there is, theres a maximum floor tempreture you can heat the stuff to aswell , may look good to start with but gaps will soon open up and the planks will swell and will become uneven , a far better option would be a overlay system with a cement based board on top with either a tiled finish or a Karndean type floor finish these look really good when done professionally hard to tell the difference from a wooden floor . cheers kop

You can lead a horse to water.......
 
Why o why use engineered oak on top of underfloor heating its got to be the worst conductor of heat there is, theres a maximum floor tempreture you can heat the stuff to aswell , may look good to start with but gaps will soon open up and the planks will swell and will become uneven , a far better option would be a overlay system with a cement based board on top with either a tiled finish or a Karndean type floor finish these look really good when done professionally hard to tell the difference from a wooden floor . cheers kop

Customer is always right :D and aslong as they don't get you to lay the top floor, it's down to the floor layers to tell them finally
 
Got to dissagree with you there Shaun i have actually done this fitting 20mm underfloor heating under a junker wooden floor nightmare bud and most definately would not do it again luckily for me a heating consultant did the design and it was fitted as manufacturers instructions, client was the guy whos company fits the cameras to Formula 1 racing cars so had the last say but it did cause alot of bad feeling when it all went pear shape and we all took a financial hit on the job, so why take put yourself in that position ? Simon put it in writing that you do not recommend they do this cover your back mate thats all i am saying. Best of luck with it kop
 
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