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Discuss Unsure how to stop a leak. in the Fittings & Pipes area at UKPlumbersForums.co.uk.

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  1. Wooloff

    Wooloff New Member

    I have no plumbing experience and to be honest, I'm pretty useless at DIY.

    I've changed the arm fill valve in the cistern and was careful to install it the same way the original was in.

    I'm having an issue with the the water leaking from the main pipe where it meets the new part. Do I just need to tighten this brass nut up as much as possible? It took a fair amount of effort to undo but I fear I'm going to break it if I keep trying to do it up any tighter. Is there supposed to be seal in there?

    Thanks for any help.

    IMG_20170417_174400.jpg
     
  2. ShaunCorbs

    ShaunCorbs Trusted Plumber GSR Top Contributor!!

    You should have a red fibre or rubber o ring this needs replacing each time you replace the fill valve

    Be careful you don't overrighten/ cross thread the brass to plastic connection
     
    • Like Like x 2
    Last edited: Apr 17, 2017
  3. townfanjon

    townfanjon Trusted Plumber GSR Top Contributor!!

    You need a fibre washer in it mate , when you nip it up it has to be tight but that doesnt mean go mad , just check you didnt cross thread it, looking again the threads look damaged , if you buy another valve make sure you buy one with a brass inlet , loads better
     
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    • Agree Agree x 1
  4. JCplumb

    JCplumb Plumber

    Agree with above, you've chewed that thread up by cross threading. Get a new 1/2'' fibre washer and a new fill valve with a brass shank and try again
     
    • Like Like x 1
  5. Dan

    Dan Admin Top Contributor!!

    Why isn't @townfanjon@townfanjon a TA? Something he said? Lol

    Looking through your posts mate i can see you seem to know what you're talking about (said by a guy who doesn't know it must be said).

    Leave that one with me. :)
     
    • Like Like x 2
  6. Ch4 plumbing

    Ch4 plumbing Plumber GSR

    If you undo the plastic fill valve nut a bit it will give you some play whilst you do the tap connector up a couple of turns, then re tighton the fill valve before nipping up the T/C.
     
    • Like Like x 1
  7. Wooloff

    Wooloff New Member

    You live and you learn! :)

    Many thanks for the help everyone. I'll go grab another valve and some washers tomorrow and have another go.

    Thanks again.
     
  8. Scott_1979

    Scott_1979 Member

    Just cut the chewed thread off clean and go again, I would try that first if the valve is new.
     
    • Like Like x 1
  9. townfanjon

    townfanjon Trusted Plumber GSR Top Contributor!!

    TA @Dan@Dan , you mean TT , top town fan
     
    • Funny Funny x 1
  10. townfanjon

    townfanjon Trusted Plumber GSR Top Contributor!!

    Seriously go for the brass tailed ones , best one is the fluidmaster, screwfix do them , sorry I dont know how to do the link .
     
    • Like Like x 1
  11. rpm

    rpm Trusted Plumber Top Contributor!!

    Gonna stick my head on the block here.

    You do not need to change the fibre washer everytime and a 50p brass tap extension will fit on that plastic stem with a couple of wraps of PTFE giving you a nice new brass face to mate the fibre washer to.
     
    • Like Like x 1
  12. Ch4 plumbing

    Ch4 plumbing Plumber GSR

    • Like Like x 1
  13. moonlight

    moonlight Plumber GSR Top Contributor!!

    Close up of the picture, you have cross threaded the valve.

    This is a good valve to use that Ch4 Plumbing recommended but there are other brass tailed valves. Good luck.
     
    • Like Like x 1
  14. Wooloff

    Wooloff New Member

    Thanks for the input again guys.

    So in the interest of not throwing out the new valve right away, although I am tempted to get one the newer design ones, mines the old ball float jobbie. Would cutting a bit of the tail/shank and then using one of these http://www.screwfix.com/p/p903sf-1-straight-tap-connector-15mm-x-12mm/58294 with a new washer do the job?

    I do appreciate all the help.
     
  15. ShaunCorbs

    ShaunCorbs Trusted Plumber GSR Top Contributor!!

    or another route if you would like to keep the existing inlet valve 1/2 female iron to 15mm
     
  16. rpm

    rpm Trusted Plumber Top Contributor!!

    That will take up to much space.
     
  17. Wooloff

    Wooloff New Member

    If it's not too much trouble or taking too much of a liberty. Could you link the brass tap extension that would do the job please? I'm really pretty useless with all this. :(
     
  18. rpm

    rpm Trusted Plumber Top Contributor!!

    • Like Like x 2
  19. Wooloff

    Wooloff New Member

  20. moonlight

    moonlight Plumber GSR Top Contributor!!

    Just make sure it goes on square. Tighten with fingers first. Then nip up with spanner.
     
    • Like Like x 2
  21. rpm

    rpm Trusted Plumber Top Contributor!!

    No worries, wrap the PTFE tape around the plastic stem in an anti-clockwise direction about 4 times then add the extension piece, if it goes wrong remove all the tape and start again. Firmly tight not gorilla tight mind you.
     
    • Like Like x 1
    • Agree Agree x 1
  22. Wooloff

    Wooloff New Member

    Hopefully I'll be able to pick an extension tomorrow and I'll report back with how it went.

    Thanks for the tip with the PTFE. I'm literally that clueless, I've never even used PTFE tape before.
     
  23. ShaunCorbs

    ShaunCorbs Trusted Plumber GSR Top Contributor!!

    or you can use a 1/2 rubber washer (not a tapwasher)

    inside the brass female iron

    Rubber Washer 1/2" - Toolstation

    any local place should have something like this
     
  24. rpm

    rpm Trusted Plumber Top Contributor!!

    No worries, you need around 6 - 8"" and you`ll have a whole reel to play with, just keep it straight like any other tape.
    Don`t need scissors to cut it just a finger nail. lol. As moonlight said start with fingers and keep the piece square to the stem.
     
    • Like Like x 1
  25. Wooloff

    Wooloff New Member

    At the risk of sounding even more stupid, what part in the iron? Is that the part on the main water pipe or the extension?

    And you say "or you can..." What would this be instead of and how come a rubber washer and not a tap one?
     
  26. ShaunCorbs

    ShaunCorbs Trusted Plumber GSR Top Contributor!!

    the bass female iron [​IMG]

    that goes on your inlet valve with either ptfe on the threads or a rubber washer on the inside

    and yes bigger hole in the centre

    tbh i would change the inlet valve for a brass tail fluidmaster pro much easier in the long run

    only stupid question is the one you dont ask
     
  27. moonlight

    moonlight Plumber GSR Top Contributor!!

  28. Wooloff

    Wooloff New Member

    Part of me just wants to pay someone to do it, but that's why I've got to my age and being unable to do most DIY jobs. Part of me wants to replace it with a brass valve and another part of me wants to fix the mess I've made of this one :)

    If I were to get a new one with a brass tail. What washer/tape would I need for that?
     
  29. ShaunCorbs

    ShaunCorbs Trusted Plumber GSR Top Contributor!!

    Arctic Products Prestex Tap Connector Washers ½
     
    • Like Like x 1
  30. moonlight

    moonlight Plumber GSR Top Contributor!!

    Just a new fibre washer on the fitting you already have, a small amount of jointing compond on the fibre washer will help also. Job done.
     
    • Like Like x 1
  31. Harvest Fields

    Harvest Fields Trusted Plumber GSR Top Contributor!!

    From the look of the picture the 15mm copper pipe into the bottom of the inlet valve is at an angle. Even though personally I do not fit Toilet inlet valves that do not have a brass shank, before buying a new one I would loosen the nut that holds the valve to the cistern, attach the valve to the 15mm copper making sure the washer inside is in good condition (if not change it) then tighten the nut back onto the cistern. This should work. Dependant on the pressure caused from the angle of the 15mm. Sorry for the long response.:D:D
     
    • Like Like x 1
  32. Wooloff

    Wooloff New Member

    I think it just looks bad in the photo. When it was connected there's no pressure or angle on the pipe, there's actually quite a bit of movement in it. Not sure if that's a good thing or not.
     
  33. Harvest Fields

    Harvest Fields Trusted Plumber GSR Top Contributor!!

    As long as it is straight and the washer is good it should seal nicely. But the plastic shanks aren't that great, which is why we all recommend brass shanks. The thread on yours does look a little damaged but if your gentle and don't force it, it should seal.
     
  34. moonlight

    moonlight Plumber GSR Top Contributor!!

    You may be lucky, wrap ptfe around your valve and try to tighten gently.
     
  35. rpm

    rpm Trusted Plumber Top Contributor!!

    Also noticed the pipe angle but the pipe below the iso valve I think is plastic and the pipe above the valve is White painted copper.
     
  36. moonlight

    moonlight Plumber GSR Top Contributor!!

    You could use Thomas Dudley Hydroflo float valve with brass tail.
     
  37. ShaunCorbs

    ShaunCorbs Trusted Plumber GSR Top Contributor!!

    still have the same issue tho, the tails arnt any longer
     
  38. moonlight

    moonlight Plumber GSR Top Contributor!!

    It's not the pipework that's short, it has dropped down. The original post with the picture, shows cross threaded float valve.
     
  39. Wooloff

    Wooloff New Member

    All done are sorted now. Thanks everyone for the help.

    Went with the new Fluidmaster valve and some jointing compound on the washer. All seems good, no leaks :)
     
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