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Tommys86

Hi all,

I'm new here, basically I have a situation whereby I'm wanting to move the washing machine out of kitchen into the utility room (which is basically a boiler room). Problem is I have a door to get past to access a foul waste pipe. I have rainwater gulley outside but advised I can't go into that - rainwater drains into a overspill pond at the front of my house so think that's a no brainer. Other thing worth noting but can't see is the boiler is a new combi boiler and I've been told it's got to drain condensation into foul waste pipe as it's acidic?

Worth noting house isn't finished being built it's coming up in the next month so sorry I only have diagrams!

I think I have 3 options but various chatter with friends etc means I need some proper advice!

Option 1 and 2 involve cutting a trench in the concrete and sealing the pipe in. Option 3 is going over a door. Please see picture attached and thanks for any advice anyone can provide!

Cheers TomWashing Machine Drain Problem.jpg
 
Waste pipe below floor with continuous slight fall towards basin waste. Needs trap on a standpipe arrangement. The condense pipe can be joined to the pipe
But your washing machine waste will usually be 40mm and basin waste might be entirely 32mm.
You need to be sure where the basin waste is terminating. Ideally need to be separate and going into 110mm sewer pipe or to a gulley.
 
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Thanks for the reply - my drain hose is probably a 21mm flexi style? Not hard 40mm drain pipe or does it need to be that?

So Option 1 was that flexi hose all the way to sink and Option 2 was flexi upto the down pipe (which'll need a trap as you say) that would be std plastic hard 40mm.

Is one more preferably to the other?
 
Option 3 IF the pump in the washing machine can do the intial lift so check with the manufacture as I believe some can only do 0.5 - 1m lift plus I`m concerned about backflow to the washing machine (guessing there is a non-return valve) so ask about this as well.
Failing this then as Best above with the standpipe being around 600 - 800mm tall.
 
thank again - so think the attach photo is correct now?
Think option 3 is out unless I do something special - it's got to pump over 1 meter high.

Option 2 - with a trap stop sewer smells coming up, down pipe to be 600-800mm.

Do I need to put a check valve in around the "???" because am I going to get smells from the line under the floor over time?WashingMachineIssue v2.jpg
 
You want the 600mm high standpipe close to the washing machine and think McAlpine do a fitting for the top of the standpipe which seals the pipe and the hose is clipped to a spigot.
 
Ah so do it otherside of the door (side of the washing machine) then use hard pipes all the way across - will it be ok going back up and then down again when connecting to the sink? As along as its not massively high like less than 400mm? I assume siphoning affect will pull the water thru? Or am I creating a long trap under the floor?
 
Ah, thinking again yes there will be a long trap under the floor - Back to the drawing board.
 
Oh dear. So why not option 1?

So my current setup is flexi into my kitchen sink - it goes up thru cupboard unit and into sink.

If i have it all downhill under the door level then raise up 300mm-400mm into a standard under sink connection (possibly meaning two traps for my bathroom sink but hey why not!) - wont that work? Line length would be 1.75 - 2 meters long?

So no down pipes or open to air connections. Sealed 2meter extension hose direct to sink but has a 300-400mm rise in it as it comes out of the ground?
 
The 300 - 400 rise at the end is the problem and the horizontal before the rise will have water in it until new water comes along and moves it.
 
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This has been discussed before, search in the little box top righthand corner.
 
Having a washing machine as close to the door as you've drawn is not ideal.

Consider taking a step back. What are you gaining by moving the washing machine? If it's cupboard space, for example, why not just put a cupboard in the utility room. Keep stuff that is not used frequently in it. If the house has not been built yet, could the door be moved to the RHS so the boiler and W/M are both on the left next to the drain connection?
 
Yeah unfortunately its build to plan, build to plan - cant change anything which is annoying. I prefer my washing machine out of the kitchen as its a social space i don't want the sound. Plus being a "life time home" i have to have under counter fridge, freezer which with dishwasher and potentially washing machine just chews up space.

Ideally I'd like to know where the boiler condensation drain goes and tap into that but suspect itll be small in diameter.

Kinda stuck with whats best solution?
 
Ideally I'd like to know where the boiler condensation drain goes and tap into that but suspect itll be small in diameter.

It may go to a small limestone-packed soakway, whcih neutralisec the acid. If so it isn't useful for anything else.
 
Why can you not run the drainage around the room i would not do any of the options you have drawn you cannot go down and then up again it will block in no time my advice is dont do it , as a last resort use a grunfoss waste water pump to pump it to the stack cheers kop.
 
Yeah I've started looking at pumps it feels that's the safest way - then i dont need to cut into concrete, then there is zero concern about the lift. Seen this... was hoping for a cheaper pump as its having little demand (no toliet waste etc) any thoughts recommendations or pumps to avoid?

AquaBest 3 in 1 Macerator Pump £139
 
Screwfix do a good selection you dont need a macerator just a grey water pump as the sololift 2 c3 dont put the condense from the boiler into though unless you fit a neutralizer inline to turn it from acidic to alkaline or use a plastic soakaway with limestone chippings externally you will also need to fit a LCA2 Alarm which is acoustic alarm and sounds the pump fails to empty i would still try and find another solution though to drain conversationally. cheers kop

1495709615787191124188.jpg

1495709921505-984442973.jpg
 
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Yeah I've started looking at pumps it feels that's the safest way - then i dont need to cut into concrete, then there is zero concern about the lift. Seen this... was hoping for a cheaper pump as its having little demand (no toliet waste etc) any thoughts recommendations or pumps to avoid?

AquaBest 3 in 1 Macerator Pump £139
Cheap option is this in a plastic bin.
Draper 61668 350W Clear Water Pump 230V - Toolstation
 
.....you cannot go down and then up again it will block in no time....
I have child hood summer time "Smell" memories of a shower with this kind of defect .
With any solution you use , don't scrimp on the occasional Hot wash to flush undisolved stuff thru !
Need a Grey water pump (as others have mentioned)
and may be a supplemetal , Flood fail safe (cost ! )
 
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would you not consider a sanlflow this will take wc and sink and washing machine for boiler use a 4 inch pipe with holes and lime stone or if it is not built yet use a p trap pan boss for sink and boss for WM all would have to be deep seal traps not ideal failing that run sewer seperate and wastes in to gully and run condensate off boiler in to washing machine trap dont for get to run condensate into tune dish or safety valv for that matter seperate both Regards Dave 01
 
would you not consider a sanlflow this will take wc and sink and washing machine for boiler use a 4 inch pipe with holes and lime stone or if it is not built yet use a p trap pan boss for sink and boss for WM all would have to be deep seal traps not ideal failing that run sewer seperate and wastes in to gully and run condensate off boiler in to washing machine trap dont for get to run condensate into tune dish or safety valv for that matter seperate both Regards Dave 01

There is no WC Dave and is there was which Saniflo would you recommend?
 
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