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Really hoping someone could help please. Plenty of background info to start:

Two years ago, we bought the house we are in now. I noticed then the radiators all seemed to be making a whooshing noise, comparable to the sound you sometimes hear in the pipes when running say a cold water tap at full pelt.

From my limited knowledge and looking around on google, I noticed that when I turned the lock shield down on a particular radiator from fully open ( as they were when I'm moved in) to just a quarter turn open, it reduced the hissing/water velocity sound down to an acceptable level. Doing this seems to create an even louder pressure sound of the other radiators nearby, so I repeated the process all over the house and that seemed to do the trick, sort of!

The problem was still there if say, my little girls room (coldest room in house), was the only radiator demanding heat. From my limited knowledge, it seemed that because the other rads had reached temp, the pressure from the pump was still trying to squeeze pressure through my daughters radiator at a water velocity speed greater than necessary. Turning the lock shield down from a quarter to an eighth, reduced the hissing noise to an acceptable level, but by this point the radiator just isn't getting hot enough to warm the room efficiently. If I open the lock shield valve past a quarter turn or even fully open, we're back to that whooshing fairly loud noise. So I keep it to a quarter turn as a happy medium.

Moving on, the boiler is a 42cdi Worcester Bosch. We have 6 radiators downstairs and 6 upstairs.

Today I had the Worcester Bosch engineer out and to start with he was skeptical. He asked me to open all the valves fully with all rads on. Doing this seems to cure the problem, however once a few radiators switch themselves off because they've reached the desired temperature in that room, then the other radiators were giving out thus whooshing sound again. He admitted that it isn't right as it is.

Great to hear from someone else that it isn't all in your head!

The boiler we have has a self modulating pump. The engineer kindly offered to switch over to a replacement pump (inside warranty), just in case the pump wasn't correctly modulating, however this hasn't fixed the issue at all.

Other things I've done over these last two years is balance the rads, but that was just a waste of time because the noise was just increased again in rads demanding heat.

Also tried down rating the boiler with Bosch on other end of phone, they talked me through that one.

The main problem with having the lockshield down to a quarter turn is the heat output isn't always enough and I'm basically having to compromise by turning the boiler thermostat to the max level.

I'm definitely missing something here. I've put up with it for two years, if it can't be fixed them I'm just going to get someone to fit a completely different boiler and pray that is the cause.

Any suggestions please?
 
There's definitely no air the in the system?
 
Hi Shaun,

No air in respect of bleeding all rads a couple of times per year and they're always fine.
 
What brand of thermostatic radiator valves have you? And come to think of it, - do you know what brand the lockshield valves are?
 
Trvs in the house all had westherm on them, then a pal of mine fitted a couple of danfoss to see if that helped. Bidirectional I think he said.

I've since got Tado this year, loving that, working with 5 motorised trvs effectively giving me 5 of the 12 rads full temp control.

I don't know what brand the lockshield valves are. Sorry. Any easy way of finding out?
 
Perhaps, it's air even though you got water from the bleeding point. Sometimes it needs a hose attached to the get rid of the air. I don't know how comfy you feel to do the bleeding with the hose. Perhaps it could solve the wushhhhhh sound
 
TRVs are all bidirectional nowadays I think.
Danfoss TRVs can be set for water flow direction to suit any pipe they are connected to help with reducing noise.
I have a couple of Westherm TRVs and I notice a lot of flow noise on one of them when room is up to temperature. Otherwise good valves.
Some lockshield rad valves have a brand name on their plastic cover, but other than that a photo would show type. Only reason I mentioned lockshield valves is that some have poor flow.
 
Perhaps, but just let me add that I also recently had a radiator changed to something with a higher btu and the guy doing it drained system took old rad off, put new rad on and bled.

I just would have thought with 3 different people now having taken a look, this surely would have been looked at already, but nevertheless all suggestions have to be tried.

Just been reading through this forum and someone said reducing the kw output down enough will help the pump modulate low enough. Is this worth considering?

We have already reduced it from default 78 down to level 55. Could go lower perhaps?
 
As mentioned above, I'm pretty sure it will be air due to the fact it has been drained recently.
 
The white cap on the lockshield on the new radiator I had installed recently says Central.

Pretty sure they'll be 2 or 3 different types of lockshield valves across the 12 rads though.
 
TRVs are all bidirectional nowadays I think.
Danfoss TRVs can be set for water flow direction to suit any pipe they are connected to help with reducing noise.
I have a couple of Westherm TRVs and I notice a lot of flow noise on one of them when room is up to temperature. Otherwise good valves.
Some lockshield rad valves have a brand name on their plastic cover, but other than that a photo would show type. Only reason I mentioned lockshield valves is that some have poor flow.
I find that the cheap ones are not bidirectional.
 
IMO, if the system has been filled and bled correctly, either (a) the pump 'speed' is too high or (b) the system doesn't have a correctly set automatic bypass valve.

If a specific room is always 'too cold', either its radiator or the connecting pipework have not been correctly sized. If you can get a sufficient flow to hear turbulence in the radiator it's more likely to be the radiator.

Systems with lots of TRVs work best when they are correctly balanced and have a correctly installed and set automatic bypass. Having the pump operating in constant-pressure mode at the lowest setting that gives statisfactory circulation is normally best. By 'correctly balanced' I mean that in normal operation the thermostat that controls the boiler cuts demand just before the TRVs start closing. Aim for temperature drops across each radiator of 10-15°C and a flow temperature of 65°C for good fuel economy. The TRVs should compensate for things like solar gain varying over the course of a day.
 
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