Securing Toilets

[James O'Donnell]

Hello I have three questions about toilets which i hope can be answered.
I have recently started up my own company after years of working as an engineer working on steam heating so there are a few trade secrets i need to catch up on.

1 when i have been fitting concealed cistern toilets i have been using the supplied nylon brackets to secure the toilet to the floor on a few occasions these flimsy brackets have broken, what does everyone else use as i cant be the only one having this problem.

2 At my local merchant they are worse than unhelpfull, I have fitted a few toilets to 3 1/2 lead soil pipes that run at an angle of about 20 degres. I cant find any fittings that can conect to this pipe without modification ( a flexi soil coupling is too close when i am fitting a close coupled pan) if any one could point me in the direction of who sell these that would be ace.

3 I have a toilet to fit for a client who has underfloor heating meaning i cant use the above mentioned securing brackets. Should bond the pan to the floor tiles? the reason i ask as it seems that if there was ever a problem later it would probbaly ruin the tiles to gain access.

Cheers for any help james

 

[tamz]

1. Don't be so heavy handed. If it is the side fixing ones you can buy fischer side fixing kits from screwfix

2. Learn to dress an offset on the 3½ lead then you can use a straight connector.

3. Underfloor heating should not have been fitted below the WC. If it has been....🙄 you could stick it down with floor tile adhesive but don't expect it to come out again in one piece. Square it with the cust first and blame the idiot who laid the underfloor....unless you did it😀

 

[WHPES]

2, McAlpine do a number of wc connectors to 3 1/2" pipework but you will have to order

3, if it is the underfloor heating pipe with metal in it you will be able to find using a metal detector

 

[James O'Donnell]

cheers people . wasn't me with the heating under the tiles and its electric as well.
Yeah it is those side fitting brackets but they seem so weak.

 

[GQuigley67]

they are solid with a fischer fixing, as long as you line them up correctly a little bit away from the inside of the pan and don't over tighten them, tighten them up as much as possible then loosen them very slightly, not even a quarter turn. When you have the pan in place and you're screwing the screws into the pan it will draw the brackets close into the pan, most times the pan won't budge, and if it does put a little bead of silicone around the bottom of the pan and it won't go anywhere even if the bracket is flimsy.

 

[NickH]

The fischer kits are a much better quality and a more flexible plastic than the cheap sets that come with some w/c's.

 

[WHPES]

The brackets look flimsy but they are solid nylon- try breaking one and you will see!

 

[BIG D4]

Hi James,
I had same problem over xmas in my parents house, but i went to local hardware store and they recommended to me SEALFIX. Its in an orange / silver cartridge and it unbelievably bonded down the toilet base and then sealed around the bottom of it to finish it neatly and it has'nt moved a mil ! You can use it even under water and comes in different colours too they say. I used white. Ooops just found the old tube, Solvall Sealfix.
Good luck!
D

 

[Dannypipe]

If there is underfloor heating under the pan, then clean and dry the tiles. Then fix the pan with silicon. It won't move.

Last year I fitted a very expensive toilet with no holes on the base. I called manufacturer to ask if there was some nifty fixing bracket missing. I was told that the WC was to be fitted with a cartridge adhesive, like silicon. So there you go.

For the record I ensure all my W.C's a well screwed down normally!

Oh and old skool method was to fix with cement...never done it, but broken a few out that have been fixed that way. It works!

 

[WHPES]

Cement - plenty done that way in schools. Great big pile of cement and sqaush the pan onto it - you're right - it doesn't shift!