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Tjw13188

Hi guys

First post so bear with me please. I'm seeking advice regarding the central heating in a home I have just bought, it's a first home and this is my first experience of heating systems. The house is in a rural area and uses a Worcester oil fired boiler, so far from what I can see with my uneducated eye is that the system consists of the boiler, a pump, room stat, water cylinder and 2 header tanks above. There doesn't appear to be any valves in the system and there is no stat on the cylinder. The boiler and pump are housed outside in an outbuilding and there is just one power supply going from the house to the outbuilding which supplies the pump and boiler. I'm assuming as there's no valves anywhere that the heating and water will always work together? There are thermostatic valves on each radiator except bathroom which i take it can achieve the same effect as having only hot water on when they are turned right down.

Basically the question is, can someone confirm what I have said above is correct based on the info I've supplied, and if I were to install something like the Hive (purely for the option to switch on remotely) would I be able to disconnect the existing room stat and just wire the supply currently going to the outbuilding into the hive receiver?

Thanks in advance for any response, and any suggestions or things you'd like me to check that I may have missed please fire them at me.

Cheers, Tom
 
Lady moved into new house and was delighted how little fuel was being used by her oil boiler, Xmas day she rings to complain, ( fruitful language lacking in seasonal goodwill) heating not working. No heating oil in tank. Didn't realise necessary to pull pin on tankmaster gauge to read oil level in sight tube.
Unlikely system has no valves, unless its really old with two pumps. Your boiler will require regular service. choose your service engineer now and discuss system with him before making alterations.
 
So far I can't comment on oil consumption other than knowing the tank is near empty just now. We've been in contact with the company who carried ot the servicing prior to us purchasing the house and plan on having them carry out a service as the last one was over 3 years ago. I'll lift some more floor boards and see if i can track down any valves or another pump. Theres only 2 pipes from the boiler if that makes any difference?

Thanks for your response
 
At your DHW cylinder a 22mm cold feed will enter bottom. Further around circumference, in bottom third of cylinder two pipes 22mm will connect. Track back along these pipes to locate motorised valve, starting with top pipe. If you have a cylinder stat. you will have a valve, even if it's an old cyltrol (unlikely).
 
Thanks Joni, I'm working just now but I'll go round to the house when i finish and trace them back from there, i had a look at the cylinder previously and didn't see any stat. The huse was built in 1905 and had a loft conversion in 1977 which I beleive would have been the last time any alterations were made to the heating other than the boiler and pump possibly being replaced at some point.
 
Given the dates a cyltrol valve becomes more likely. Expect to find it on the lower pipe.
 
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Looks like you have a simple system, with pumped heating and gravity hot water. Your water temperature is then controlled by the thermostat on the oil boiler. Heating is controlled through the timer, or thermostat. This switches the pump on. You can't have radiators on thier own, as hot water is always priduced.
Gravity hot water is simple in operation, but very inefficient. I wouldn't bother with the hive, as they work better with modern systems in a well insulated building.
 
Discounted gravity because boiler is outside original building, but if boiler has been relocated away from original position this would explain lack of MVs. Summertime heating controlled by turning off all rads or use of immersion heater for hot water.
 
Thanks for the responses, we will be getting a plumber in to go over everything before we lay all the new flooring etc but he can't get over for a few weeks hence why I'm trying to get my head round it myself (curiosity is getting the better of me). We've just finished insulating the house top to bottom so hopefully the heating won't be loaded too greatly. I'm just leaving work now so will have look shortly along those pipes.
 
I think you were right to doubt the system being gravity fed, having looked at it again it looks like it's actually fully pumped as the boiler only has 2 pipes to it and there are no branches off between the boiler and the pump. There's definitely no valves anywhere between the boiler and the cylinder, all that's under the floors other than pipes is a manifold for upstairs rads and a manifold for downstairs rads. Having had a close look at the cylinder looks like it's had a previous leak which has been bodged up so when the plumber is available I'll get his opinion and look at having the cylinder replaced and a valve added in to the circuit. Thanks again, i have a much better idea what we're dealing with now!
 
When installing new cylinder insist on S plan controls. more robust than Y plan and easier to zone off parts, such as loft conversion, to suit requirements. Insulation, improves comfort and greatly reduces heating cost. Your focus will bring lasting benefit. Please return to forum and let us know final outcome.
 
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