T
Tats
Hi all,
I recently had to condemn an old baxi boiler due to CO leaking into the kitchen. it was a system boiler on a C plan. Has 22 mm pipe to about a meter after the motorised valve and reduced down to 8mm microbore to feed the rads. The previous electrics were an absolute nightmare. The homeowner was an electrician by trade (retired now) And it seems that he passed time wiring everything he could into one timer which he was using as a junction box.
I got a Worcester green star 15 ri to replace the old one and bought the Honeywell s plan smart fit. The installation went fine with minimal snags. I drained down and cleaned out the pipes, installed two new motorised valves making it an s plan set up. The new electrics went in fine and now make sense!
The problem i have now is The boiler fires up for a few minutes then turns off, and back on again a few minutes later on both central heating and hot water. This repeats until the programmer is switched off. Also 3 out of 7 radiators are not working. One has never worked according to the homeowner however the other two did. I have bleed all the air out of everything I possibly can. One of the rads has heat in the pipe but it isn't going Into the actual radiator. The valve opens and closes fine. I've took it off and checked its insides and it works as if should so I can't understand why the rad isn't heating.
i have drained down the system multiple times, took the rads off the wall and cleaned them individually removing massive amounts off gunk from each one but still it's not playing ball! I realised that I misread the instructions and never installed an automatic bypass. A Y plan doesn't need one but S plan does. This will be fixed on my next visit! Could the lack of bypass be causing it to constantly cycle off and on?
The other thing I thought it could be is the flow and return are reversed. I checked to see what heats first from everything being cold. The return pipe by the cylinder seems to get a bit of heat before anything else but then my pipe leading to the pump etc gets boiling as it should so Im really not sure!
any ideas what else I could be looking at here? Blocked pipe work? Reversed flow and return? Any help is greatly appreciated!
I recently had to condemn an old baxi boiler due to CO leaking into the kitchen. it was a system boiler on a C plan. Has 22 mm pipe to about a meter after the motorised valve and reduced down to 8mm microbore to feed the rads. The previous electrics were an absolute nightmare. The homeowner was an electrician by trade (retired now) And it seems that he passed time wiring everything he could into one timer which he was using as a junction box.
I got a Worcester green star 15 ri to replace the old one and bought the Honeywell s plan smart fit. The installation went fine with minimal snags. I drained down and cleaned out the pipes, installed two new motorised valves making it an s plan set up. The new electrics went in fine and now make sense!
The problem i have now is The boiler fires up for a few minutes then turns off, and back on again a few minutes later on both central heating and hot water. This repeats until the programmer is switched off. Also 3 out of 7 radiators are not working. One has never worked according to the homeowner however the other two did. I have bleed all the air out of everything I possibly can. One of the rads has heat in the pipe but it isn't going Into the actual radiator. The valve opens and closes fine. I've took it off and checked its insides and it works as if should so I can't understand why the rad isn't heating.
i have drained down the system multiple times, took the rads off the wall and cleaned them individually removing massive amounts off gunk from each one but still it's not playing ball! I realised that I misread the instructions and never installed an automatic bypass. A Y plan doesn't need one but S plan does. This will be fixed on my next visit! Could the lack of bypass be causing it to constantly cycle off and on?
The other thing I thought it could be is the flow and return are reversed. I checked to see what heats first from everything being cold. The return pipe by the cylinder seems to get a bit of heat before anything else but then my pipe leading to the pump etc gets boiling as it should so Im really not sure!
any ideas what else I could be looking at here? Blocked pipe work? Reversed flow and return? Any help is greatly appreciated!
