Central Heating Pipes

[Mike78]

Hi all,

Earlier today I was trying to get a few floorboards up to get access and one of the 15mm pipes came out of its brass tee connector with the ensuing wet face and mad panic that a bar of water can give you. I popped a bucket under the fountain (it was pointing ceiling way) and ran down and drained the boiler down to zero to stop the flow. All shops are shut of course now, but so I am prepared for tomorrow, I was hoping I could get some advice:

1) I have (hopefully) attached a picture of what went wrong. The white (painted Copper) pipe popped out of the top of the tee connector, and the arrow shows that it is now definitely not going to get back in there securely. I don't know if it is on the hot or the cold side, but it has the TRV connected to it if that helps? We pretty much don't have the system on at all at present as it's not really got cold yet, so luckily I got a face full of cold water.

2) In terms of temporarily fixing this until I can get a permanent solution in place, I was thinking of trying to attach a compression stop end which I can pickup tomorrow. Will this work / is this sensible?

https://www.NoLinkingToThis/p/compression-stop-ends-15mm-2-pack/65021

3) In terms of the plan for this pipe, I want to re-route the piping to move the radiator about a meter away from where it current is. With tee connectors, do they always need to be pointing to the side as you look at them, or could the tee bit be pointing down towards the floor? I ask this as I want to run the pipe down towards the floor, though two beams and then up at the right spot. If I point it sideways I will need to lift a load more floorboards / cut through lot more beams. In essence, does it matter which way the tee bit points or must it point to the side?

Thanks for any pointers you can give.

 

[ShaunCorbs]

That’s a bad solder joint as you can see the joint wasn’t in that far only a matter of time before it went

the cap end won’t work on a fitting sorry to say

 

[Mike78]

That’s a bad solder joint as you can see the joint wasn’t in that far only a matter of time before it went

the cap end won’t work on a fitting sorry to say

Thanks for the reply. How should I go about fixing it? Compression fitting is about the extent of my plumbing knowledge. Is it going to need the tee removing and a new one putting in? The pipes are very rigid with only a few mm's of movement - If I was to cut the copper piping to install a plastic push fit tee would I need to cut through the tee itself, or can I cut out the tee and will that leave me enough pipe to get the plastic push fit on it?

 

[ShaunCorbs]

You would need two compression couplings
A compression tee
And a bit of 15mm tube

upto you or the services of a plumber / heating engineer

 

[Ben-gee]

As it’s going to be hidden under a floor I would strongly suggest it is soldered.

If that means you have to pay a plumber, do that. As it’s already drained down it really won’t (shouldn’t...) cost much.

 

[Mike78]

As it’s going to be hidden under a floor I would strongly suggest it is soldered.

If that means you have to pay a plumber, do that. As it’s already drained down it really won’t (shouldn’t...) cost much.

Thanks for the input. From what I have read the push fit (plastic or copper) kit is very robust, so that is what I am planning on doing. I will be leaving the floorboards up for a few weeks prior to getting the room sorted as there are various other things I need to do with the wiring and data cables, so will be able to monitor for any leaks or problems during that time. Assuming all well after a few weeks it would be safe to assume that all will be well for a number of years?

 

[ShaunCorbs]

I would suggest you invest in a 15mm pipe slice

 

[fixitflav]

Thanks for the reply. How should I go about fixing it? Compression fitting is about the extent of my plumbing knowledge. Is it going to need the tee removing and a new one putting in? The pipes are very rigid with only a few mm's of movement - If I was to cut the copper piping to install a plastic push fit tee would I need to cut through the tee itself, or can I cut out the tee and will that leave me enough pipe to get the plastic push fit on it?

Do you mean you no longer need the tee (as the rad is being moved)? As long as the pipe is completely drained you could clean up the socket and solder in a short length of 15mm pipe, with an end cap, if that doesn't foul the floorboards.
If you want to remove the tee you need 2 couplers and a short length of pipe. If lengthways movement is restricted one of the couplers needs to be a slip type (without the centre stop)

 

[WC1]

Op suggests push fit. It really is the lowest common denominator of plumbing but much easier for diy esp when there's no movement in the pipes. If you must then get a copper slice as per Shaun. The appropriate fittings, a bag of inserts and a length of "barrier" pipe and a cheap plastic pipe cutter (scissors looking thing). Make sure the fittings and pipe are all from the same manufacturer. Speedfit is as good as any and easily available.
Do some googling and youtubing and make sure you clean any paint off the pipes.
Give the other solder joints a bit of wiggle and make sure they're not ready to pop too.

 

[RSD]

Hi all,

Earlier today I was trying to get a few floorboards up to get access and one of the 15mm pipes came out of its brass tee connector with the ensuing wet face and mad panic that a bar of water can give you. I popped a bucket under the fountain (it was pointing ceiling way) and ran down and drained the boiler down to zero to stop the flow. All shops are shut of course now, but so I am prepared for tomorrow, I was hoping I could get some advice:

1) I have (hopefully) attached a picture of what went wrong. The white (painted Copper) pipe popped out of the top of the tee connector, and the arrow shows that it is now definitely not going to get back in there securely. I don't know if it is on the hot or the cold side, but it has the TRV connected to it if that helps? We pretty much don't have the system on at all at present as it's not really got cold yet, so luckily I got a face full of cold water.

2) In terms of temporarily fixing this until I can get a permanent solution in place, I was thinking of trying to attach a compression stop end which I can pickup tomorrow. Will this work / is this sensible?

https://www.NoLinkingToThis/p/compression-stop-ends-15mm-2-pack/65021

3) In terms of the plan for this pipe, I want to re-route the piping to move the radiator about a meter away from where it current is. With tee connectors, do they always need to be pointing to the side as you look at them, or could the tee bit be pointing down towards the floor? I ask this as I want to run the pipe down towards the floor, though two beams and then up at the right spot. If I point it sideways I will need to lift a load more floorboards / cut through lot more beams. In essence, does it matter which way the tee bit points or must it point to the side?

Thanks for any pointers you can give.

Sounds like you need a Plumber!

 

[Mike78]

Thanks all. I took the plunge and brought a blow torch and as suggested above, 1 coupler and 1 slip fit coupler with a solder ring. Installed yesterday and so far so good with no leaks etc. Am I correct in assuming that if nothing has gone wrong in the last 24 hours I have done a decent enough job for my first attempt?

In terms of a follow up question, I have quite enjoyed the process of working with the copper, and wish to now extend that pipe into a new circuit to feed the radiator that I am moving. From having the central heating on last night, I have identified that the pipe I have worked on is the hot feed. The cold feed runs about 2 inches parallel from it and unfortunately is in the direction that I wish to take the new pipe.

If I put in a tee connector, can I angle that downwards towards the floor to allow for me to run a length of pipe under the obstructing pipe, or must a tee connector only ever be installed level - i.e. with the tee bit pointing sideways? Hope that makes sense?
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Given that a picture paints a thousand words, please see attached photo.
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Actually, think I have just answered my own question as that hot line takes a turn about a foot along the cold one and then runs in the direction I need. So, I will need to take up a couple of floorboards where I need access and then put a tee on there and run the pipe towards the wall - assuming no other obstacles. Would be interested to know the answer to installing the tee though, and whether it needs to be sideways, or if it can be pointing a different direction - i.e. down or at 45 degrees.

 

[fixitflav]

Am I correct in assuming that if nothing has gone wrong in the last 24 hours I have done a decent enough job for my first attempt?

I suppose it's full and up to normal working pressure. I would check it with kitchen paper a few times and if OK you're good to go. Don't forget to wash/wipe off excess flux.

If I put in a tee connector, can I angle that downwards towards the floor to allow for me to run a length of pipe under the obstructing pipe

I don't think that's a problem. Any air pockets will soon be entrained and be vented.