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ColinJL

I have a conventional CH/Hot water system with motorised valves that are both power to open power to shut types. We had a loft conversion done some years ago and the upstairs radiators had a hot feed tee'ed into to the system at the pump. This feed was controlled by a third valve which is powered open, auto off. (Honeywell V4043H ). It has never been electrically connected, so consequently the upstairs radiators are on whenever the heating OR the hot water are on. In summer the manual overide to allow turn on, has been set to auto which in the absence of any power closes the valve; and back to manual force open in the winter. I assume I can wire this valve into the system by connecting the power open lead of CH (downstairs) valve direct to the power on lead of the CH upstairs valve. In other words I have two CH zones, plumbing wise, but only one zone electric wise. Hope that makes sense. The valve has L,N & E connections which I think need direct connection to the mains in. The valve also has a boiler/pump electrical connection, but in this case I assume I can leave this lead open circuit; as the existing wiring controls these items, and the new valve will only be open IF the downstairs valve is open. Are my assumptions correct.

I presume I can put an on/off switch in the power on/auto off lead so the upstairs can be manually switched off to only heat the downstairs when required. As this is a two pole on/off switch my first instinct was to wire the valve Neutral lead to one of the poles; but I am now thinking that this must be wrong, as the valve has a permanent live lead, I guess it needs a permanent neutral lead as well.

Can anyone confirm my reasoning? Looked on the honeywell site but the downloads aren't much help.

Not entirely certain I need the switch at all, as the all but one of the rads upstaits have themostically controlled valves. The other rad is very small, heating a small bathroom, and has a very short pipe run to the pump and return , less than the height of the the downstairs rooms, so I guess it doesn't wqste too much keeping it on.

Thanks for any help
 
What you need is to pay a heating engineer to do it properly for you. This is not DIY stuff.
 
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