Discuss Cutting tracks for pipework in the Plumbing Jobs | The Job-board area at PlumbersForums.net

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funinacup

Hi guys, first post here. Joined up to do a bit if research into a CH system we're having installed in the coming months.

Our flat has a concrete cap on the solemn, and no gap between joists and floor/concrete, so only way to go below floor is to cut channels/tracks into the caber floor/joists and sink the pipework into them in each room.

I have zero experience of this. My old man is a builder so could do the cutting in advance of the gas fitter doing his bit.

Gas fitter says he needs to run 22mm off the boiler then can go down to 15mm from there for each rad.

Caber floor is only 18mm I think so does that mean the joists will have to be notched to accommodate the 22mm?

How does the floor then regain support once the carpet/laminate goes back down as I don't want to feel any dips in the carpet when walking on it.

Any advice appreciated!

Cheers
Michael
 
Welcome to the forum,

First of all it all depends how big your system is but most likely I'd run pipes as well in 22mm and later reduce down to 15mm less problems for the future.

I'd just chase channels for piping ( deep enough so the caber floor will sit solid and flush to the floor

You won't feel any clips if the pipes are deep enough.

Pipe then caber floor then carpet or laminate

If I misunderstood your installation let me know
 
That sounds about right. So the actual caber floor wouldn't be cut, just lifted and the pipes cut into the joists?
 
That sounds about right. So the actual caber floor wouldn't be cut, just lifted and the pipes cut into the joists?


If the caber floor is been installed you will need to take it off. Afterwards chasing and installing pipe work. Refit those caber floors and make sure if you screw themselves down not to drill into pipe work :)
 
If the caber floor is been installed you will need to take it off. Afterwards chasing and installing pipe work. Refit those caber floors and make sure if you screw themselves down not to drill into pipe work :)
Yes caber floor is pre-existing. So that should be lifted, joists cut/notched and caber reinstated?

Any regs regarding depths of notches etc or a non-issue?
 
Yes caber floor is pre-existing. So that should be lifted, joists cut/notched and caber reinstated?

Any regs regarding depths of notches etc or a non-issue?

max notch 1/4 of dept and max hole 1/8 centre of joist
 
Isn`t there something about from end of joist as well?
 
So in order to have the pipes no more than 1/4 depth of the joist, the joist would need to be 90mm thick, which I'm guessing they aren't...
 
max notch 1/4 of dept and max hole 1/8 centre of joist

Other way round mate.

Maximum notch 0.125d (1/8 of joist depth). Maximum hole 0.25d (1/4 depth)

Notching is permitted between 0.07 and 0.25 of the length between supports.

Holes are permitted on the centre line between 0.25 and 0.4 of the length between supports. Holes must not be closer to each other than 3 x diameter of the largest hole.
 
So in order to have the pipes no more than 1/4 depth of the joist, the joist would need to be 90mm thick, which I'm guessing they aren't...

No, they would have to be greater than ~90mm DEEP. Joists are normally installed "standing up" so the width of the timber becomes its depth and the thickness of the timber is the width of the joist.
 
Hi guys, first post here. Joined up to do a bit if research into a CH system we're having installed in the coming months.

Our flat has a concrete cap on the solemn, and no gap between joists and floor/concrete, so only way to go below floor is to cut channels/tracks into the caber floor/joists and sink the pipework into them in each room.

I have zero experience of this. My old man is a builder so could do the cutting in advance of the gas fitter doing his bit.

Gas fitter says he needs to run 22mm off the boiler then can go down to 15mm from there for each rad.

Caber floor is only 18mm I think so does that mean the joists will have to be notched to accommodate the 22mm?

How does the floor then regain support once the carpet/laminate goes back down as I don't want to feel any dips in the carpet when walking on it.

Any advice appreciated!

Cheers
Michael

When we have worked on new build flats over the years I have seen different methods of chipboard flooring over the concrete floors,some just floating on insulation,some on wooden battens,some wooden batons thick plaster board then chipboard,so there are a lot of different constructions of floors out there,the construction was normally to help with sound transfer so we where never allowed to put any services within the floor,we had to put services in the MF ceilings,if the flats are not to old I would try and find the builder or architect,you could possibly do a lot of damage to the construction of the property.
 
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