Firebird Oylympic photocell replacement

[Kaegran]

Got a Firebird Oylympic oil burner which goes straight to lockout when switched on. I suspect the photocell; question is - how exactly is it replaced?

regards
Kaegran

 

[Dotty]

Firebird is the boiler. The burner will be a different make.is suspect a Riello R40. Pull the grey control box off after undoing the releasing screw. The photocell's under that. My money's on the control box rather than the photocell.

 

[kimbo]

If you remove the photocell and replace the control box and fire the boiler, if it fires and then goes to lockout it is the photocell, otherwise as croppie says.

 

[Kaegran]

Thanks. It's a a Riello RBL 171t burner with 530 control box. Next question is how to remove the control box without breaking it - I've removed the screw on the left hand side; as far as I can tell the box needs to be lifted at the front and pulled out - is this correct? Or does it just pull straight out horizontally without being lifted? It seems very tight. regards Kaegran

 

[Dotty]

It's very tight (Said the bishop to the actress, f'nar f'nar!) but it'll pull out horizontally. the photocell is attached directly to the box.

 

[Best]

Thanks. It's a a Riello RBL 171t burner with 530 control box. Next question is how to remove the control box without breaking it - I've removed the screw on the left hand side; as far as I can tell the box needs to be lifted at the front and pulled out - is this correct? Or does it just pull straight out horizontally without being lifted? It seems very tight. regards Kaegran

There is a couple of bolts that hold the control box on! Easy to not see the second one! The photocell is easier to change! :smile:

 

[Dotty]

Duh! I didnt spot the RBL!

 

[kimbo]

mectron burner undo left hand screw pupp back an inch and lift rear of box and pull out, as croppie says photocell on end of box I presume it is an 530se box

 

[Dotty]

Confused now. Can't be a 530 box on an rbl!

 

[kimbo]

The way the control box is described its definetly off a mectron probably a G3 or 5. The olympic is quite an old boiler

 

[Kaegran]

The way the control box is described its definetly off a mectron probably a G3 or 5. The olympic is quite an old boiler

It's definitely an RBL 171T burner, and a 530SE control box. The boiler is at least 13 years old, probably MUCH more than that. Not quite sure what a 'Mectron' is, guessing it's another name for this type or range of burners?

Anyway, control box removed and replaced with a new one OK, and I replaced the 4uF capacitor whilst I was at it - many thanks for help. Burner still goes straight to lockout; I think that the solenoid is OK and there are a couple of different noises during the 12 sec pre-ignition and 5 sec ignition phases, so I'm guessing that the motor is working (but I can't tell for sure).

I've got a new nozzle and it's been a while since the old one was replaced, so might as well replace that while I'm at it, but can't figure out how to replace it - so asking for help with this now, I don't know where it's located.

regards
Kaegran

 

[kimbo]

did you check the photocell?

 

[Kaegran]

did you check the photocell?

Yes; it was caked up with soot so I cleaned and replaced it. I incorrectly assumed that the new control box would have a new photocell, because the new control box being sold on ebay for £55 has the photocell attached. But no, the new box from PTS didn't have a new photocell, so I had to replace the old one. Local PTS don't have one, but can get one in a couple of days.

I've just found a couple of videos on youtube that show how to change the nozzle, which I'll do next - doesn't look difficult. However, one of the videos states that the fuel pressure should be 145psi. When I open the bleed valve on the lower front of the burner, the oil barely drips out during the pre-ignition and ignition phases - doesn't look like 1psi, let alone over 100. I'm now wondering if it's a fuel supply/bleed problem - the tap IS on at the tank; there is a filter of course near the tank before the tiger loop which I ought to check, and another filter in the left hand side of the burner/pump which I will also check, but the evidence is pointing to an airlock which I'm struggling to understand.

regards
Kaegran

 

[SimonG]

Stop now and get an engineer. Your combustion is all to pot and unless you are going to spend several hundred pounds on gear to set it up correctly then this is your cheapest option. Sometimes you have to hold your hands up and call in a pro.

 

[kimbo]

The symptoms still suggest the photocell do what I said originally and dont waste anymore money guessing as Simong says get an engineer out I still reckon its the photocell could be wrong though.

 

[Best]

You really shouldn't be working on the combustion part of the boiler without knowing what you are doing & as just said, you need basic gear to set it up. Try a new photocell as it's cheap. What exactly does happen when it goes to start? If the motor is turning (fan noise you will hear) first, then it could be oil pump. A decent engineer would sort it in minutes.

 

[Kaegran]

New photocell is on order. However, I don't think the fan is turning - there is a buzzing noise, but when I hold a piece of tissue paper near the fan inlet it doesn't move at all. If this is the case then that might also explain the low oil pressure?

 

[kimbo]

Get an engineer out and save yourself some money

 

[Dotty]

You've either mouse jam or a knackered oilpump or a shot capacitor.

Get someone in.

 

[SimonG]

or a duff motor!

 

[Best]

....or seized motor bearing(s). The list gets longer!

 

[Dotty]

Right!

So you've either mouse jam or a knackered oilpump or a shot capacitor or a duff motor or seized motor bearings.


Take your pick!

(Cheers guys!)

 

[Best]

Right!

So you've either mouse jam or a knackered oilpump or a shot capacitor or a duff motor or seized motor bearings.


Take your pick!

(Cheers guys!)

Yes, it's a lot of help, - just £300 of parts should rule all possibilities out! Lol!