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Hanging heavy rad on plasterboard wall

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Santini

I need to hang a 35kg rad (not including water weight when filled) onto a plasterboard wall. It comes with four supporting brackets but the fixings supplied are for a solid wall. Can anyone advise the strongest/best fixings to use to hold this safety in plasterboard?
 
I've bolted radiators back to back before on that 2" thick eggbox stuff.

My preferred method is to expose some studs and fit ply level with the plasterboard. If it's not possible to find any studs a piece of ply stuck to the wall with gripfill and fixed with multiple cavity fixings is a lot more secure than just using the holes in the brackets with cavity fixings.

You can also get floor mounting stanchions for radiators.
 
if i come across paramount boarding (egg shell) i cut out 3" sq where the fixings are and use 2to1 bonding and cement goes off in no time at all and really solid
 
Had a few jobs in the past quite simular to this, but the way I had to go about it was to take the measurements of the rad when hung, and cut away the plasterboard and fix battons to the solid wall behind and make good the wall before hanging back the rad.. If the wall where it has to hang is just a plasterboard party wall, the only thing would be to build battens to the existing wall partitioning.. Well I'll go and have read of your other prvious posts.. Good luck.. Bet yul do a good job..:tongue:
 
My glue and screw method ain't let me down yet and is a lot less hassle. I would only diff about with battens in the wall if the rad was a real monster

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:bulb2:As above remove plasterboard install wood tile over good job well done and no bad press when it falls off, hollow wall anchors and spring toggles are good and we always carry on van but no need for you to use i tiling
 
Recently tried to hang a big traditional 3 column rad in an old stone cottage. Wall was lime plaster on top of stone. Of course there was no solid stone behind the exact point that I needed for the rad bracket, just a large void between stones. Bought a Rawplugs resin kit, never used one before. Despite the instructions being poor and the kit being expensive, it was brilliant. Simply embedded a threaded rod into the resin which completely filled the void. Solid as a rock, excuse the pun. Certainly got me out of a hole - excuse second pun. Despite the cost it saved me hours of work and no worry about the rad coming away when it was filled.


Read more: http://www.ukplumbersforums.co.uk/p...eavy-rad-plasterboard-wall.html#ixzz2GeNfWYIl. How do these resin kits work just inject in the void and fill it so you have a hard solid surface to fix to?
 
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Stanley do 1 like above
 
Plasterboard and rads fit is a much asked question on here.
Just wish someone would put a good video on here of how to do it dead right.
With fixing selections and batten selections and why.
Did ask plumbers parts on youtube to put one together a video, but nowt showing and that was over a year go.
 
Unless it is a monster on 12.5 mm plasterboard the way to go

Spit Driva TP12 Panhead Fixings Metal 35mm Pack of 100 | Self Drills | NoLinkingToThis

In general work these are a life saver as "get me a spit" will sort the job - just be aware of the violence on insertion. Impact driver and no apology is the way forward with these brutal chaps.
 
These:
Hollow Wall Anchors 6-13mm M5 x 43mm Pack of 10 | Hollow Wall | NoLinkingToThis

Set with this:
Setting Tool | Builders Accessories | NoLinkingToThis

There is no better way.
 
What a lonnng thread. Always thought to bash a hole through the wall and batten up to the anchor rad brackets and be a chippy for extra half a day..or maybe two
 
Use hollow wall anchors but have never used the setting tool, put through the rad bracket into the wall then screw it until it's tight job done :smile5:
 
waste of money, just use a pozi drive to make a hole, slip in a hollow wall anchor and pull it up with a setting tool, and they are cheaper.
worst thing you can do with plasterboard is knock a screwdriver through to make the hole you should always drill if you bang through you get a neat hole at the front and a crater behind then your trying to get a fixing on board thats now half the thickness it was suitable sized spade bit with little pressure is favorite
 
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