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pollys13

Hi all,
Hope this is the right area to post this. When I moved into my house we knocked the fireplaces out. I've got a woodburner, my brothers a builder, we built a hearth and used concrete blocking to make a new fireplace, we put a ss flexable liner inside. Where the chimney enters the roof space, we are putting a metal space, we cut this out to go around the liner but but there are some gaps. How can we seal these gaps? Now we have the chimney fireplace built, quite a lot of heat seems to be going up the chimney any way to rectify this. I have heard about fireplace blowers but really expensive, his burner he has outside his fireplace, like that gives out loads of heat. We could I suppose extent the hearth and have it sitting outside the fireplace, this way would radiate a lot more heat.
Cheers.
 
Do you have a closure plate above the Woodburner where the flue enters the chimney?
 
Did you use the correct flexible flue liner (gas flue liners totally different to solid fuel) and is the liner fitted correctly/safely. Theres a lot more to installing a log burner than connecting it up to any old liner, filling it full of wood and lighting it
I don't know a great deal about them (I'm not HETAS, just gassafe) so wont give you any pointers
My advice would be to get a HETAS approved engineer around sooner rather than later, as should anything go t*ts up (or worse!), I doubt your household insurance would want to know

PS its not just gas that produces carbon monoxide, coal, logs etc do as well

You say your brothers a builder, no disrespect to him, but in situations like this they sometimes do more harm than good by not knowing enough, but thinking they do
 
needs a register plate, solid pipe to register adaptor (can be twin wall or single wall but must be suitable material for the fuel), solid fuel rated liner inside chimney to pot (be careful as solid fuel liners can only be fitted one way up), back fill with insulation like vermiculite fit a bird cage if needed. Must fit a co alarm and register with local building control. Make sure stove is suiltable if its a smokeless area.

normally easier to get a qualified person in to ensure its done right. Most stoves need fitting on the constructional hearth not the dress hearth or what ever the correct terms are......... memorys left me lol.

best to render concrete blocks with 50mm of heat proof render if they are within the clearance zones of the stove and flue.
 
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needs a register plate, solid pipe to register adaptor (can be twin wall or single wall but must be suitable material for the fuel), solid fuel rated liner inside chimney to pot (be careful as solid fuel liners can only be fitted one way up), back fill with insulation like vermiculite fit a bird cage if needed. Must fit a co alarm and register with local building control. Make sure stove is suiltable if its a smokeless area

normally easier to get a qualified person in to ensure its done right. Most stoves need fitting on the constructional hearth not the dress hearth or what ever the correct terms are......... memorys left me lol.

best to render concrete blocks with 50mm of heat proof render if they are within the clearance zones of the stove and flue.

My point entirely :stupid:
 
Hi all,
Hope this is the right area to post this. When I moved into my house we knocked the fireplaces out. I've got a woodburner, my brothers a builder, we built a hearth and used concrete blocking to make a new fireplace, we put a ss flexable liner inside. Where the chimney enters the roof space, we are putting a metal space, we cut this out to go around the liner but but there are some gaps. How can we seal these gaps? Now we have the chimney fireplace built, quite a lot of heat seems to be going up the chimney any way to rectify this. I have heard about fireplace blowers but really expensive, his burner he has outside his fireplace, like that gives out loads of heat. We could I suppose extent the hearth and have it sitting outside the fireplace, this way would radiate a lot more heat.
Cheers.

Damn, why did I spend all that money on training and qualifications for our biomass and solid fuel work? Could of just got Bob the builder in he'd av dun the job and only costs half as much as us...
 
don't all wood burners / stove need to registered with building control?
 
Yeh do us all a favour and get a carbon monoxide detector and if you got any kids I think social services will take them if your that intent on killing them. Dumb bum!
 
don't all wood burners / stove need to registered with building control?

So do all chimneys / flues (including alterations), and if you're not certified they need to be inspected by the local Building Control.
 
Better get a HETAS in then!

Oh but no one will come as they can't check the entire length of flue pipe to verify its one piece or what type it is or even if its the right way up!! and as they didn't supply the stove, check that it has a data plate for conformity and KW rating to determine the correct size for the ventilation that required!

have to coff up and get building control out then!!
 
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Looks like your brother has inadvertently shafted you. It's going to cost you more in the long run.
 
Better get a HETAS in then!

Now then - there are other bodies :) - We're BPEC/NAPIT after interesting discussions with HETAS about them being a Certifying body not a Regulatory body :)
 
Now then - there are other bodies :) - We're BPEC/NAPIT after interesting discussions with HETAS about them being a Certifying body not a Regulatory body :)

Interesting point that i did not know!! but still the same problems though!!
 
HETAS at least they know what they are doing and have good grounding from the solid flue advisory Board. NAPIT? BEPEC? certification yes, knowledge about solid fuel?
 
The history of almost all of the HETAS / BPEC courses is that they were jointly developed - my training course notes have both logos equally prominent on them:) And then HETAS / BPEC had a bust up so went their separate ways!
 
HETAS training is very good. As said the guy who does a lot of it for HETAS actually helped write the Woody Pellets BPEC syllabus. I do know that BPEC skimmed a fair bit out though deeming it un-necessary, which is a shame as the detail the HETAS course went into was what made it brilliant for me. The HETAS Biomass (H0005) is a full 5 days and they don't stretch it out either, whereas the BPEC was being offered as a 3 day at the time, not sure about now.

We are not registered with HETAS but that doesn't make me a cowboy, other registering bodies can offer the same support, it's not black magic. (unless its very sooty)

Annoyingly though the courses from HETAS now have a 5 year expiry date, meaning I have to re-sit my wet & dry again this year. :prrr:
 
so much can change in 5 years with solid fuels!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
 
The body you use to register your work is not important, it's the qualifications you have that counts.
 
And the need for a co alarm.

nothing a technical bulletin couldn't have sorted. It's all about the revenue!
 
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