Discuss Heat Only Boiler + S Plan+ + Weather Compensation Query in the Central Heating Forum area at PlumbersForums.net

Yes so normal heating sl 1

Cylinder demand sl 2

Wc is used if sl1 is calling

But goes to full rate if sl2 is calling you need to know if you have 1 or 2 sl terminals
Hi Shaun (or anyone else reading this)

I finally understand what you were referring to and have an update......
IMG_20230417_170657.jpg

There is no SL2 wire or spare wires installed......

Ideal Halo kit would solve the issue but that's looking like it will cost £420 + fitting!!!! And only works with Ideal equipment.....

Can we use this from EPH - EPH Transceiver Pack to create a wireless solution? Options 4 & 5 create a two way communication system - one (4) is 240V whilst (5) is Volt Free. I am going to assume that this would be 240V as its on the "Left Hand Side" and has nothing to do with connecting to either Opentherm or Weather Comp which are on the "Right Hand Side"
TR1TR2 Page 1.png

TR1TR2 Page 2.png
 
If I read your query correctly your boiler (regular) can still only fire at one set temp so how does a wireless connection help you? Your boiler still requires an ability to run at two temperatures the heating circuit at a much lower temp than the HW circuit.
 
Yes it will work but most of the time it’s easier and more reliable to install a new wire

As for wiring it’s stnd 240 no low voltage as it’s just switches etc I would use that for the hot water side
 
If I read your query correctly your boiler (regular) can still only fire at one set temp so how does a wireless connection help you? Your boiler still requires an ability to run at two temperatures the heating circuit at a much lower temp than the HW circuit.
Adding Weather Compensation decouples the Boiler Firing Rates (kw) for CH and DHW.
For CH it fires and modulates based on the curve set for the weather compensation.
For DHW it fires @ maximum rate of 15kw based on calls for heat from Programmer then Cylinder Thermostat.
However as Shaun had noted (which I hadn't completely understood) that this function requires an additional Switched Line to allow the boiler to facilitate this.
You might wonder why not just run additional wires.... Well first the wires go into the wall (behind the plasterboard) across the ceiling to the other side of the room then to about the middle of the kitchen/diner underneath where the Cylinder and Wiring Centre are all installed on the first floor. The house is less than 3 years old so unlike older house with floorboards has T&G Chipboard floors requiring a lot of mess/remedial works just to run in a couple of wires.
Hence the need for some way to wirelessly switch this from the boiler to the wiring centre and, presumably, back again.
 
Adding Weather Compensation decouples the Boiler Firing Rates (kw) for CH and DHW.
For CH it fires and modulates based on the curve set for the weather compensation.
For DHW it fires @ maximum rate of 15kw based on calls for heat from Programmer then Cylinder Thermostat.
However as Shaun had noted (which I hadn't completely understood) that this function requires an additional Switched Line to allow the boiler to facilitate this.
You might wonder why not just run additional wires.... Well first the wires go into the wall (behind the plasterboard) across the ceiling to the other side of the room then to about the middle of the kitchen/diner underneath where the Cylinder and Wiring Centre are all installed on the first floor. The house is less than 3 years old so unlike older house with floorboards has T&G Chipboard floors requiring a lot of mess/remedial works just to run in a couple of wires.
Hence the need for some way to wirelessly switch this from the boiler to the wiring centre and, presumably, back again.

Do you have down lights eg spot lights ?
 
Do you have down lights eg spot lights ?
Nope, nothing that would make the job any easier.

Here's what our boiler/kitchen layout looks like roughly. Boiler is inside what is presumably a specially manufactured cabinet (consisting of a side finishing panel, some parts of a base cabinet and a base cabinet door). Floor is solid concrete with self levelling screed laid over top (but only to the cabinet plinth locations).

Plus did I mention that everything not on show (95%) is in 15mm polypipe or for radiator drops in 10mm polypipe.

We are not even certain what type of joists have been used. I am guessing i-Joists but could be anything.

Kitchen Boiler Layout.png
 
I’m guessing the main fused spur for the heating is by the cylinder as well ?

Can you confirm what that grey wire does ?
 
I’m guessing the main fused spur for the heating is by the cylinder as well ?

Can you confirm what that grey wire does ?
No the Main Fused Spur is located next to the boiler in the kitchen (on the outside wall).

By Grey Wire I am guessing your asking about the wire that currently is wired into the L on Switched Line 1? If so, honestly I have no idea as there are 5 sets of grey outer sheathed wires (2Core+E & 3Core+E) when they finally exit the wall in the airing cupboard and are wired into the wiring centre.

I don't have the kit to easily test for continuity plus i'm not Gas Safe Cert'd so technically shouldn't be popping front of boiler off and dropping wiring control centre in the boiler to gain access.

Putting those issues to one side I would have to jerry rig something (aka isolate, remove fuse, switch off MCB then run some wire from boiler to wiring centre location) to test for continuity to determine exactly which wire this is in the Wiring Centre.

But I think I get where your going with the question. If the grey wire exits into the wiring centre this could be repurposed as the Switched Line 2 as the L is simply a Live wire that could easily be replaced with another Live connection (or even just linked from the L to the right of it)


IMG_20230417_170657.jpg


The system was almost certainly wired up like this originally (using Danfoss TPOneM (wired thermostat/programmer) and and TPOneB (wired thermostat). These were simply awful to use, even for me, and my elderly folks had no chance so were replaced with the Drayton Wiser Kit 3 by a sparky.

Kingspan Wiring Centre Plan.png


This is the current wiring centre attached to the Kingspan HW Cylinder along with the layout on the inside of the lid (when I mention Grey Sheathed Wires I am talking about Twin or 3 Core and Earth, some of the wires inside these also have grey sheaths)
Boiler Wiring Centre Layout.png


IMG_20230501_133608.jpg
 
Yes spot on need to have a look behind the boiler fused spur to see where it goes

And yes best to leave the cover on
 

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