Ideal Classic Slimline FF350

[willing2learn]

Hi guys, went to one of the above boilers earlier (first time working on one). Customer was complaining of it making a loud noise when running. So, having read about the fans being a common fault on the classics I thought it could be that. He also mentioned it hadn't been serviced in 7yrs and could I service it.

So I gave it all full strip down service, gave everything a good clean, put it all back together and fired it up. All fine, noise still there, I noticed that the noise was more of an electrical type buzzing noise and wasnt coming from the fan, but the pcb/gas valve area. Anyway, I went to drop the underside of it that holds the pcb to get to the gas valve to do the burner pressure and as I was undoing one of the screws there was a little 'pop' and spark, followed by that electrical burnt out smell. Obviously the boiler then died. I went to get my cheapo multi meter and realised the batteries had died on this...nightmare! So i couldn't check the fast blow fuse that I could see.

So, what do you reckon it could be? The buzzing noise they could hear previously was obviously related to what went pop when i was undoing the screw, any ideas guys?

PS

I'm off to get a decent multimeter first thing tomorrow!!

 

[smillsey]

Oh no, could of been arcing on a connection and the movement of the underside finally made the short to earth. but then again buzzing is usually solenoids.....

 

[smillsey]

You got an led torch? I changed over to led a while ago and jeez its so much better in there!!

 

[willing2learn]

Oh no, could of been arcing on a connection and the movement of the underside finally made the short to earth. but then again buzzing is usually solenoids.....

Yes, it sounded like it was coming from the gas valve, but couldn't be sure as it went pop before I got chance to investigate further!!

 

[smillsey]

check resistances of components you suspect, hopefully the culprit shows up.....

If not look for the burn marks!!!

Check that gas valve first, see what resistance you get accross the coil(s), then see if you got any continuity to earth on the live (L+N) on the gas valve....

If you havent got an Insulation resistance tester you you have to do it with your ohmeter on the multi.

Good luck! Sounds like a cracking fault!

pardon the pun

 

[willing2learn]

Cheers, couldn't believe my luck after I went to the van to get multimeter and batteries were dead! Bah! Hopefully the gas valve is fine and it'll just be the fast blow fuse.

 

[willing2learn]

Any idea what resistance should be across the coil on the gas valve?

 

[quality]

I would have it would be at least 2000 ohms