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Ideas on removing 4" cast iron stack

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I have to remove & replace a complete cast iron soil pipe from the rear of a house - in a small back yard.
It is well jointed by the looks of it & needs taken out of the clay sewer bend without damaging that also.
Any ideas how I should safely go about this - perhaps I could cut it into sections, but how & what blade? Been years since I had to remove one & this looks risky.
 
Don't know but do Ann Summers stock them?!?!

Looks a bit naughty to me! ;-)
You should know Tom your never out of there so I am told, keep asking the young sales assistant to model this one then that one then another but still you cant make up your mind !!!!!!!
 
haha oftec doesnt like us using boiling water to test a fire valve, and now we are discussing using molten lead:)
 
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There is a 40mm one on a diff page that looks ok
 
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Yes but use temaxol or something similar. Best boss cor CI is a timesaver one.
 
Thanks to everyone for all the good advice & ideas on how to remove cast iron soil stack safely.
Sadly the cast stack is now down & replaced with the modern plastic stuff, with the basin & bath wastes all into it.
Builder put scaffolding up & did most of it using a 4 1/2" angle grinder with blade for metal. Was a bit risky taking the top part off as it snapped after it was cut partly, but we had hold of it & all down safely.
 
Now you know how bleeding heavy the top sections are, remember cos you could kill yourself the next time, with out help & a tower !!
& I still say its much safer with Jones not an angle grinder. IMHO
 
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Yes, serious weight in the top part!
Tbh, if we had tried to take that part down from a ladder on each side, we probably couldn't have stopped it overbalancing & taking us down with it. Took an hour to errect scaffolding but worth it! Would have been madness & I am glad I initially assessed it as too dangerous to take chances with!
The men who put those stacks up all those years ago (think this is near 80 years old) must have been tough! :smile:
 
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Yes, serious weight in the top part!
Tbh, if we had tried to take that part down from a ladder on each side, we probably couldn't have stopped it overbalancing & taking us down with it. Took an hour to errect scaffolding but worth it! Would have been madness & I am glad I initially assessed it as too dangerous to take chances with!
The men who put those stacks up all those years ago (think this is near 80 years old) must have been tough! :smile:
We were ! but not that long age I will have you know.
 
I love doing these ladder up and stick an eye bolt in the wall near the top extend ladder up past the stack tie ladder of to eye bolt so it cant move
cut ba window out of the stack low down with 9 inch grinder bag stack to stop debris
tie the top length to a rope thats hung over the top rung of ladder tie other end of rope to bottom of ladder so its taking the strain on the top length break top length and let it swing on the rope
return to ground and untie rope and lower it down
repeat in stages down the stack
one of my favourite jobs
be aware falling pieces can bounce usually straight through windows
 
Thanks Steve for your advice earlier in the thread about using a grinding blade to stop any debris getting into sewer. Did that and was reassuring as there was no manhole if any blockage had occurred.
As to using a ladder, - always did that years ago, sometimes using a rope to tie the stack to prevent it falling. Just wasn't brave or mad enough to risk it. Scaffolding was a lot of work for builder though & in hot sunny weather. But happy it was safe.:smile:
 
i thought cast iron went out decades ago how much dose cost now days?
 
cast iron is cheap compared to copper or lead rain water systems you can still see being put up nowadays, copper by nutty victoriana fans down my way who went bust and lead on listed buildings is common.
 
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