Search the forum,

Discuss Leak on toilet inlet with new fill valve in the Plumbing Jobs | The Job-board area at PlumbersForums.net

Status
Not open for further replies.
Messages
3
I've fitted a new fill valve on my toilet as the old one stopped working properly.

In fitting the new one I've found the copper pipe that feeds the inlet isn't quiet straight and so pulls the valve on a slight angle.

As the new valve isn't sitting flat in the bottom of the tank so the rubber washer isn't making a seal and it's leaking around the inlet.

It's not possible to get tools around the new nut as there isn't enough clearance, and no matter how tight I'm able to get the nut (and bearing in mind the instructions say don't over tighten) it's still leaking.

What would you recommend I could do to stop the leak?
 
Rather than mess about cant you take the inlet back and swap for one that isnt defective?

Ive found they always leak if only hand tight so i always nip them up with a spanner or grips. The plastic back nuts can strip their threads easily though if you over tighten.

I replace them fairly regularly in work along with syphons and have never had to use any sealant.
 
Last edited:
Rather than mess about cant you take the inlet back and swap for one that isnt defective?

Oh I mean it's the actual pipework of the house that's not straight rather than the valve I just bought being defective.

I've just taken some photos, maybe these will help. So the pink line is the inlet pipe, it's hard to tell on the photo but it's not straight and so when tightened onto the valve it pulls it on an angle and leaks around the nut where the blue arrows are, I guess the rubber washer inside the tank isn't flat/tight.

IMG_9924.jpg

IMG_9928.jpg
 
Have you only tightened it finger tight then with you saying you cant get tools in there? They always leak if not tightened enough.

Could you get to it with one of these?

Adjustable Basin Wrench

ae235.jpg


Personally i would remove the cistern, tighten the inlet and then replace. Or, cut the copper pipe and replace with a flexi with a built in isolator to make things easier in future.

http://www.NoLinkingToThis/p/flexible-tap-connector-with-valve-15mm-x-mm-x-300mm/3558g
 
Last edited:
They always leak if not tightened enough. Could you get to it with one of these?
I tried with the new nut which I could only get finger tight, then on your advice tried the old nut which is shaped slightly different so I could get a spanner at it but even so it's still pretty hard to get at so I didn't manage to get it much tighter. Still leaky.

remove the cistern, tighten the inlet. Or, cut the copper pipe and replace with a flexi
Ha yeah I thought that might be where this is heading. I think I might just call a plumber tomorrow. It's getting a little beyond me now, it was just supposed to be a simple swap!
 
Status
Not open for further replies.

Reply to Leak on toilet inlet with new fill valve in the Plumbing Jobs | The Job-board area at PlumbersForums.net

Similar plumbing topics

Hi all I'm hoping someone can shine a light on this for me Since our stop tap on the pavement has now been filled with sand for whatever reason, we are relying on our property fitted stopcock (this is outside on our garage wall) Unfortunately turning this to the closed position only reduces...
Replies
3
Views
240
Hi, Can anyone advise as to why the cold water to my bathroom keeps airlocking? This originally happened about 12 months ago and has happened 3-4 times since. It’s an upstairs bathroom, fed from a tank in the attic. The tank is about 8 Meters away and feeds a bath, sink and toilet. The tank...
Replies
9
Views
316
Creating content since 2001. Untold Media.

Newest Plumbing Threads

Back
Top
AdBlock Detected

We get it, advertisements are annoying!

Sure, ad-blocking software does a great job at blocking ads, but it also blocks useful features of our website. For the best site experience please disable your AdBlocker.

I've Disabled AdBlock