New column rad cold devastated

[ShaunCorbs]

Need to remove the rad and put a piece of copper tube between the valves eg linking them and test like that if it works rads rubbish

 

[John.g]

Jyst remove the bleed vave at the end above the LSV and leave out, after first ensuring that both the TRV & the LSV are closed, the open the TRV fully, this proves that you have a good flow from/via the TRV, close the TRV and open the LSV fully, this then proves that the LSV has a good flow. All this proves is that both valves are working as they should.

 

[Elitecriteria]

Jyst remove the bleed vave at the end above the LSV and leave out, after first ensuring that both the TRV & the LSV are closed, the open the TRV fully, this proves that you have a good flow from/via the TRV, close the TRV and open the LSV fully, this then proves that the LSV has a good flow. All this proves is that both valves are working as they should.

Ah ok that makes sense

The other person said take the rad off

Ill try it this way as i think its easier

 

[Elitecriteria]

Jyst remove the bleed vave at the end above the LSV and leave out, after first ensuring that both the TRV & the LSV are closed, the open the TRV fully, this proves that you have a good flow from/via the TRV, close the TRV and open the LSV fully, this then proves that the LSV has a good flow. All this proves is that both valves are working as they should.

Just to confirm i only have one bleed valve on the trv side

The other side has a plain one thats all on the lsv side

 

[Elitecriteria]

Need to remove the rad and put a piece of copper tube between the valves eg linking them and test like that if it works rads rubbish

Oh man i hope not that means iv been ripped off

Ok ill try the othet way and join with copper pipe and see ifthe copperpipe heats up

 

[ShaunCorbs]

Just to confirm i only have one bleed valve on the trv side

The other side has a plain one thats all on the lsv side

Doesn’t matter where the water comes out but matters make sure the valves are off and open one check water comes out and close that one then test the lockshield etc

 

[Elitecriteria]

Jyst remove the bleed vave at the end above the LSV and leave out, after first ensuring that both the TRV & the LSV are closed, the open the TRV fully, this proves that you have a good flow from/via the TRV, close the TRV and open the LSV fully, this then proves that the LSV has a good flow. All this proves is that both valves are working as they should.

Bleed vavle is on top of trv

 

[John.g]

Above the TRV and on the top of the rad I hope.

 

[Elitecriteria]

Above the TRV and on the top of the rad I hope.

Yes sorry trv vavle bottom left the bleed valve top left

 

[Elitecriteria]

Hello guyS

I have not tried what youbsaid

But i have felt the first three columns are warm and the bar across atthe bottom is warm


The rest 11 bars towards right mostly top and middle area are cold

 

[John.g]

Hello guyS

I have not tried what youbsaid

But i have felt the first three columns are warm and the bar across atthe bottom is warm


The rest 11 bars towards right mostly top and middle area are cold

Is/was the full length of the rad top warm/hot?.
"Ordinary" single+double pannel rads start off heating initially like that. If you bring a rad into service with the CH water already up to temperature you will see this effect. The hot water will rise up in the first say150/200 MM length of the rad at the inlet end, it will then get hot all along the top and gradually heat the whole rad from the top down.
Its unlikely, but there may be a baffle somewhere in your rad, if NOT in the top (rad upside down) then you can check it by shutting the TRV&LSV, open the vent screw to check that the valves are tight, remove the both blank plugs on rad top, get bit of stiff wire or a bit of copper or plastic piping if its OD is small enough and you should be able to push it right through from one end to the other, you may be able to check it simply by holding a light up against one end. If it does then of course, more messy but the same could be done in the bottom.

 

[IND_Nick]

Morning, sounds like it's piped the wrong way round, try swapping it so flow goes through it the other way. Often the baffles are a column or two before the return.

 

[Elitecriteria]

Thank you john

The bottom is warmer

Top is not

Ill open the vavles and check through

Also it may not even help but im going to move my bleed valve to the other cold side to see if that helps and bleed on that side

 

[John.g]

Is/was the full length of the rad top warm/hot?.
"Ordinary" single+double pannel rads start off heating initially like that. If you bring a rad into service with the CH water already up to temperature you will see this effect. The hot water will rise up in the first say150/200 MM length of the rad at the inlet end, it will then get hot all along the top and gradually heat the whole rad from the top down.

This diverter is 145mm long and inserted at the inlet end.