Discuss Radiator off the wall - Am i able to remove radiator in the Plumbing Jobs | The Job-board area at PlumbersForums.net

Yes it will come to a stop. It shouldn't take a lot of force to close it either but to say how much is rather difficult to describe as you'll appreciate.

The important thing is to do your check at the bleed screw. Just remember you may initially get a small amount of water from there to begin with but would be less than a mug full. If it stops, keep the bleed vent open and watch it for a bit. No more water = the valves are closed properly.

The important thing is not to panic if the water does not stop because you can just do up the bleed screw to stop it. Only open the bleed screw between a half and full turn, no more because you don't want it coming out. If you need to close it you just apply enough pressure to stop the water and no more. That's all it needs.
 
Yes it will come to a stop. It shouldn't take a lot of force to close it either but to say how much is rather difficult to describe as you'll appreciate.

The important thing is to do your check at the bleed screw. Just remember you may initially get a small amount of water from there to begin with but would be less than a mug full. If it stops, keep the bleed vent open and watch it for a bit. No more water = the valves are closed properly.

The important thing is not to panic if the water does not stop because you can just do up the bleed screw to stop it. Only open the bleed screw between a half and full turn, no more because you don't want it coming out. If you need to close it you just apply enough pressure to stop the water and no more. That's all it needs.

Bleed worked! Must have stopped the valve in the process of snapping. No air, no water.

Screwfix tomorrow to get the bits and bobs then D-day Saturday. It would make sense I guess to replace the bit that snapped whilst going there.

Thanks for your help so far stig!!
 
you will have to drain down if your going to replace that part (aka the lock shield valve)
 
My pleasure. Pick up a half inch to 15mm compression 90 degree angle lockshield valve and if you want to look at changing the whole valve or just get the rad back up for now, either way one of us can help. It's up to you.

Also get a roll of white PTFE tape whilst at the stores, very inexpensive but gives a simple reliable way to seal the compression olives if you have any small weeps when reassembled, not for the valve threads but for the compression ring (olive) seals. I'd hate for you to get a weep and not have the stuff. Some people prefer jointing compound but that'll cost a lot more and you'll probably never use it again. PTFE is cheap and works very well.
 
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My pleasure. Pick up a half inch to 15mm compression 90 degree angle lockshield valve and if you want to look at changing the whole valve or just get the rad back up for now, either way one of us can help. It's up to you.

Also get a roll of white PTFE tape whilst at the stores, very inexpensive but gives a simple reliable way to seal the compression olives if you have any small weeps when reassembled, not for the valve threads but for the compression ring (olive) seals. I'd hate for you to get a weep and not have the stuff. Some people prefer jointing compound but that'll cost a lot more and you'll probably never use it again. PTFE is cheap and works very well.

Thanks stig.

I'll pick up a new valve - is it going to be much more hassle or do you think its worth doing whilst the radiator is off the wall?
 
It's doable and I would say yes, whilst the rad is down you might as well replace it. Where is the radiator situated? Is it upstairs or ground floor? Does your system have any radiators on any floors higher than it?

Basically three options.

Seeing as you can get tools on the broken spindle and turn it, just fix your brackets and get it back up and running. It may not need any more interference and give years of service - broken spindle head or not.

Replace the valve completely yourself with some advice from these forums.

Ask a plumber to do it, it's not a big job and they will know what to do but it'll cost you more of course.

Is your system sealed (pressurised) or is it open vent and fed from a small tank in a loft? Answers to these questions will help to determine how we go about doing this, whether to drain the system or do it by "trapping" the water in the system which can be a bit nerve-wracking when you aren't used to it.

I think a decision should be made on what to do when we at our end know what type of system we are dealing with.
 
It's doable and I would say yes, whilst the rad is down you might as well replace it. Where is the radiator situated? Is it upstairs or ground floor? Does your system have any radiators on any floors higher than it?

Basically three options.

Seeing as you can get tools on the broken spindle and turn it, just fix your brackets and get it back up and running. It may not need any more interference and give years of service - broken spindle head or not.

Replace the valve completely yourself with some advice from these forums.

Ask a plumber to do it, it's not a big job and they will know what to do but it'll cost you more of course.

Is your system sealed (pressurised) or is it open vent and fed from a small tank in a loft? Answers to these questions will help to determine how we go about doing this, whether to drain the system or do it by "trapping" the water in the system which can be a bit nerve-wracking when you aren't used to it.

I think a decision should be made on what to do when we at our end know what type of system we are dealing with.

Radiator is upstairs, no other radiators above it. Two others on the same floor at the same level.

Pressurised boiler system in the kitchen on the ground floor.

Cheers
 
Thanks for the info. If I was doing the job myself I'd change the valve with the system full and have my wet vac ready just in case. With the valves on the other two radiators on the same floor closed and no way for air to enter the system it should hold the water back when taking off the old valve. Or I might freeze the pipe but that's not really a good option for DIY.

It feels like it shouldn't work but it does which is the slightly nerve-wracking part!

The system pressure must absolutely be reduced to zero to do this though, normally doing this by opening the drain-off downstairs to drop the pressure before removing the broken valve off the pipe. I would drain the problem radiator first as described in my original post then with all of the rad valves in the house closed, open the drain off at low level until the water stops coming out. Then change the broken valve. The water will be locked in the pipework as long as air cannot enter the system higher up which is not a problem on a sealed system.

However, there being only two rads on the top floor with it, I'm tempted to suggest a partial drain down to do the work. Less scary.

I'd like to ask my esteemed colleagues on the forum which method they would advise in your situation? Any input very welcome at this stage!
 
Sideways but rad is off the wall - going to do some repair work, paint etc and get the bracket on then reattach tomorrow. Previous homeowner was a lazy sod!

No leaks from the pipes etc. Going to leave the valve for another time.

I could kiss you stigster!
 

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Well done, anagram! You have done mightily well. I remember tackling jobs like this when I was just starting out as an apprentice. I used to get so nervous back then, all in a day's work now though!

I'm proud of you mate, a lot of people wouldn't have done that themselves.

Come back any time you need assistance. I've enjoyed helping out on this one. Your valve with the snapped head is still fully functional so no hurry to replace.
 
Damn! That's torn it!

Only one answer now. You're going to need to change the valve. I'm sorry you have had some terrible luck as well as DIY triumph on this one.

As an absolute last resort, like there is a cold baby staying in the room or something similar, you could try cutting a slot in the spindle with a hacksaw and turn it with a screwdriver. You will not cause a leak on the valve doing that but things are getting silly by that point. If it was the only rad in a freezing spacestation that's what I'd do but realistically it's time to change it.

You've done so well so far and learned a lot about radiators at least.
 

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