Discuss Replaced PRV and still leaking in the Plumbing Jobs | The Job-board area at PlumbersForums.net

Should be as close to the boiler as possible mate (shouldn’t it)

Doesn’t matter aslong as there’s no valves on the boiler / between the boiler and prv
 
Doesn’t matter aslong as there’s no valves on the boiler / between the boiler and prv

I suppose if the pipes from boiler froze in severe weather (highly possible if boiler is in garage or an attic), then a remote prv could end up being isolated and no use
 
I suppose if the pipes from boiler froze in severe weather (highly possible if boiler is in garage or an attic), then a remote prv could end up being isolated and no use

Should have a frost stat and that wouldn’t make any difference anyway as unless it’s inside the boiler would be the same

Think of a standard heat only boiler where’s the vent connection / tee normally in the airing cupboard
 
Should have a frost stat and that wouldn’t make any difference anyway as unless it’s inside the boiler would be the same

Think of a standard heat only boiler where’s the vent connection / tee normally in the airing cupboard
On this instance though Shaun. It makes no sense to put the PRV where they have when they have fitted the external vessel next to the boiler. They cannot use the excuse of not having an external wall. It’s a garage, it will have at least 1.:p:p
 
Just one more thing, the boiler has had all components completely replaced, all the PRVs and
The hot water tank expansion vessel have been changed in the last two years.
The only two things that have not been replaced in the past two years is the red expansion vessel next to boiler and the actually hot water tank itself, could it be the hot water tank itself gone wrong?
 
Just one more thing, the boiler has had all components completely replaced, all the PRVs and
The hot water tank expansion vessel have been changed in the last two years.
The only two things that have not been replaced in the past two years is the red expansion vessel next to boiler and the actually hot water tank itself, could it be the hot water tank itself gone wrong?
Unfortunately we cannot say. You will need an G3 registered engineer to tell you that.
 
Yes it could in theory as it is an old enamelled steel type cylinder which I bet has not had the anode replace. If the internal heat exchanger has rusted the higher pressure domestic water could be leaking into the heating water raising the pressure so the heating safety valve discharges at 3bar.
As per other, get a good G3 engineer in (& disconnect that filling loop as per Water Regs).
 
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Yes it could in theory as it is an old enamelled steel type which I bet has not had the anode replace. If the heat exchanger has rusted the higher pressure domestic water could be leaking into the heating water. As per other get a good G3 engineer in (& disconnect that filling loop as per Water Regs).
The pressure in the heating doesn’t rise when off it drops.
 
Should have a frost stat and that wouldn’t make any difference anyway as unless it’s inside the boiler would be the same

Think of a standard heat only boiler where’s the vent connection / tee normally in the airing cupboard

I know what you are saying, but even on an open vented system, I always put a prv on the system, - and straight off the boiler pipes. Normally only oil systems, but also some gas.
If an open system feed and vent froze in the attic, the prv would be needed
 
I know what you are saying, but even on an open vented system, I always put a prv on the system, - and straight off the boiler pipes. Normally only oil systems, but also some gas.
If an open system feed and vent froze in the attic, the prv would be needed

and if the prv froze
 

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