Sunvic motorised valve help

[Magpieno1]

Hi.

I am hoping for some help (I'm afraid I don't know much about plumbing etc but will give all the info I know).

we currently hAve sunvic Dm5601 motorised valve which has become unreliable - it seems the pin gets stuck preventing the head from turning it but even applying grease has not helped. The motorised head itself is iffy - not always turning off etc.
anyway plumber suggested replacing it, which was fine with us. However he came to fit it and found that the dm5601 replAcement (I don't know what model I'm afraid but apparently the dm5601 has been discontinued), has 4 wires instead of 5 like the dm5601.
We are now looking at having to get a new junction box (and whilst we are at it, a new digital timer to replace the old round clock type one).

my questions are:
1) is what we are being told correct? Looking on google, it seems a number of places sell the dm5601
2) could we not find another motorised valve with a 5 wire system so that it would be compatible with our existing junction box?
3) do we have an old system that we would better off replacing anyway?
4) we have been quoted in region of £190 to 240 to replace junction box and install a new digital timer. is this a fair estimate?

sorry for the long message, but I want to understand what is happening.

thanks in advance!

 

[Mike Jackson]

Most of the sunvic valves require a relay box that is incompatible with most modern valves so, in my opinion, you are better off getting rid. He cost doesn't sound bad either.

 

[Magpieno1]

Most of the sunvic valves require a relay box that is incompatible with most modern valves so, in my opinion, you are better off getting rid. He cost doesn't sound bad either.

Thanks. So do modern valves tend to have 4 or 5 wires? Our current box is only compatible with 5 wires yet looking at other valves on the market, they also tend to be 5 wires. This is making me doubt whether our junction box does actually need to be replaced or whether we just need to look at a different brand of motorised valve.

 

[Rickster123]

An chance you could put a picture of the set up on here magpie?

 

[Magpieno1]

An chance you could put a picture of the set up on here magpie?

I can try - which bits should I focus on (box or valve or both?) is it easy to put photos on here?

 

[Magpieno1]

sorry - can't get photos on. File size seems too big and cannot make it smaller. If anyone can answer my post no 3 without a photo, I would be very grateful. Thanks anyway

 

[stevetheplumber]

withought looking up the model numbers you quote a lot of sunvic valves were motor on motor off
where as most others are sprung return sunvics were a bit of a nightmare in the fact that they did many different heads and valve bodies not all of which were compatible with each other my advice would be to upgrade to honeywell
sunvic momo valves had a yellow and a white wire for the two functions and most had no internal micro switch so to achieve seperate operation of heat and water a relay was needed this was integral with the sunvic junction box which was pre wired for their system which is probably why its now incompatible

 

[Magpieno1]

Thanks Steve. Looking at the box, it says Satchwell. So basically, the current junction box was fitted in conjunction with the sunvic valve. Anything other than the original valve wouldn't be compatible with this box. Have I got that right?

 

[WHPES]

My advice if you're having the programmer changed as well is to upgrade to a regular S plan (or y-plan if it's a 3 port valve) with the usual Honeywell motorised valves, 7 day programmer and programmable room stat as it's false economy trying to match something to an obsolete control system. Any reputable electrician will be able to assist, with a plumber to replace the physical valves.

 

[lame plumber]

a decent plumber should be able to do the lot, omho 🙂

 

[stevetheplumber]

my thoughts as well lame

 

[ManchesterGas]

4 wire = diverter?
5 wire = mid position?