Toilet Cistern Overflowing (Picture Included)

[Nelder]

Quick question please, the toilet cistern is constantly over flowing and I need to adjust the fill valve.

Am I right in assuming that the part circled should turn so that it can be adjusted? Or do I just need to bend the ball cock arm?

Thanks Phil.

 

[Nelder]

If you lift the ball cock up, it does stop the water.

 

[Harvest Fields]

Neither fit a new one.

 

[Nelder]

ok thanks.

 

[Rob Foster]

Just for your info the part you circle is not the adjustment

 

[WC1]

Not a difficult DIY job, do not use cheap parts, Youtube is your friend.

 

[Harvest Fields]

Not a difficult DIY job, do not use cheap parts, Youtube is your friend.

You tube get me so much work.

 

[Burger]

Neither fit a new one.

Making sure you fit a part 2 or 3 and an isolation valve in the pipe feeding it. If you get like for like you need a double check valve also.

 

[Nelder]

Thanks for your advice everyone.

 

[Nelder]

Making sure you fit a part 2 or 3 and an isolation valve in the pipe feeding it. If you get like for like you need a double check valve also.

Sorry what do you mean by part 2 or 3? Im guessing the check valve requirement is due to the lack of air gap?

 

[Rob Foster]

Sorry what do you mean by part 2 or 3? Im guessing the check valve requirement is due to the lack of air gap?

Look it up on Wras website
Rob Foster aka centralheatking

 

[Best]

That is a fairly old HP ball valve.
It also has a bend on the ball valve arm to keep the float off the side of cistern.

Choice is to renew all the parts inside that valve (HP rubber washer, nozzle, brass split pin and probably washer for valve body to tail), or install a brass part 2 brass valve if it suits.
The float angle and height on part 2 valves is adjustable by a brass bolt

 

[Ben-gee]

To be perfectly frank if it shuts off fine when you lift the arm up -
1) replace diaphragm washer as it’s probably got stiff/distorted
2) if it still needs lifting to shut it off, bend the arm.

 

[Burger]

Sorry what do you mean by part 2 or 3?

Sorry, the float valve you have is part 1 (old type) part 2 is brass and part 3 is plastic both with air gaps

Im guessing the check valve requirement is due to the lack of air gap?

- correct but not needed if you install a part 2 or 3, an isolation valve is a requirement of water regs regardless, unless you opt for the repair option as suggested by some members.

 

[Tommo25]

Replace with fluid master fill valve (brass shank) model.