- Messages
- 4,113
Hi Friends
i did 2 jobs today.
First was to replace a mixer tap with a Brita filter tap. Got the old mixer off ok, assembled the Brita ok and fitted it. The issue was that the flexi connectors were long and kinked. I got the cold on ok but the hot leaked from the isolation valve. Put a bit of ptfe around the thread and still dripped. Had to use all my strength to tighten it until drip stopped. Then, the green light on the tap bottom wouldn't come on, I was perplexed, kept trying to reset it, after 10 mins I had enough and called Brita, low and behold there is now no green light if the sticker at the reset button is red!!!! Learned something anyway.
so first question is what would you have done with the isolation valve drip?
Next job was to replace a shower pump with same upgraded model. So, closed gate calves under bath, isolated electric. Undid all 4 flexis on pump, drained water into bowl, all ok so far. Push fit flexis to 22mm pipes would not budge, hard to get to also. Then, water started coming out of hot, tried to tighten gate valve more but nothing! Had to be quick, put a towel under, anyway hot all connected ok. Cold flexi at bottom needed a washer with a mesh, had a massive problem getting it on, very hard indeed and cold water started leaking as per hot. Anyway, did it in the end, connected electric and all ok.
So, my questions here are, what's the best way to get old push fit connectors off pipes? And what do you do if valves leak?
also how li g should it take to swap a mixer tap and how long to swap a pump. It took me 2hrs each.
It was good for my confidence today, learned and enjoyed it.
look forward to receiving advice.
thanks
Rocket
i did 2 jobs today.
First was to replace a mixer tap with a Brita filter tap. Got the old mixer off ok, assembled the Brita ok and fitted it. The issue was that the flexi connectors were long and kinked. I got the cold on ok but the hot leaked from the isolation valve. Put a bit of ptfe around the thread and still dripped. Had to use all my strength to tighten it until drip stopped. Then, the green light on the tap bottom wouldn't come on, I was perplexed, kept trying to reset it, after 10 mins I had enough and called Brita, low and behold there is now no green light if the sticker at the reset button is red!!!! Learned something anyway.
so first question is what would you have done with the isolation valve drip?
Next job was to replace a shower pump with same upgraded model. So, closed gate calves under bath, isolated electric. Undid all 4 flexis on pump, drained water into bowl, all ok so far. Push fit flexis to 22mm pipes would not budge, hard to get to also. Then, water started coming out of hot, tried to tighten gate valve more but nothing! Had to be quick, put a towel under, anyway hot all connected ok. Cold flexi at bottom needed a washer with a mesh, had a massive problem getting it on, very hard indeed and cold water started leaking as per hot. Anyway, did it in the end, connected electric and all ok.
So, my questions here are, what's the best way to get old push fit connectors off pipes? And what do you do if valves leak?
also how li g should it take to swap a mixer tap and how long to swap a pump. It took me 2hrs each.
It was good for my confidence today, learned and enjoyed it.
look forward to receiving advice.
thanks
Rocket
