Adding new radiator to heating system

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Ian Auckland

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Hello I would like to add a radiator to my current heating system and would like to take some advice on how to achieve this?

Thanks
 
what heating system do you have

combi
cylinder

pressurized
open vent eg tank in the loft approx 1x1 foot

10mm to the rads or 15mm etc
 
Can you count how many rads you currently have, and how many panels they have? Also can’t remember from previous posts what boiler you have?
 
You will have to drain the system down after turning the f&e tank off turn off all the rads at both ends. Then hang your radiator after working out the best pipe routes for the flow and return. The rule is two medium sized rads per 15mm pipe run 3 at a pinch. Start at the rad or the t junction end and bang it all in. you can use copper ...best or plastic bit ugly if its on view. turn water back on , check your work then open new rad check again. open all the closed rads. go round and bleed bottom ones first. check again, switch heating on sweat in this heat. switch off sit down award yourself a few beers
already in the fridge. Simple who would get a plumber for this !
Rob Foster aka centralheatking
 
Rob Foster said:
You will have to drain the system down after turning the f&e tank off turn off all the rads at both ends. Then hang your radiator after working out the best pipe routes for the flow and return. The rule is two medium sized rads per 15mm pipe run 3 at a pinch. Start at the rad or the t junction end and bang it all in. you can use copper ...best or plastic bit ugly if its on view. turn water back on , check your work then open new rad check again. open all the closed rads. go round and bleed bottom ones first. check again, switch heating on sweat in this heat. switch off sit down award yourself a few beers
already in the fridge. Simple who would get a plumber for this !
Rob Foster aka centralheatking
Click to expand...
Do it soon winter is on the way
 
Worth flushing the new pipework before connecting to the rest of the system. Sentinel tells me that flux (and oils inside the new radiator) often remains in the system and the dissolved copper it holds can actually prevent inhibitor from working correctly. And the oils can damage EPDM rubber in systems - quite a bit of rubber in some Valliant boiler models.

Best practice is to fill the whole system with new systems cleanser to get the flux out, circulate as per manufacturer's instructions and then drain. It is doubtful how many people will go to that length, particularly for a small modification such as yours, but if the labour's free, it's only the cost of the F3/X300 (etc.). Many people would be happy with an old-school cold flush, then hot flush, and then refill (i.e. refill the system and check for leaks, circulate the water and drain, refill again heat the water and circulate and drain, and finally add inhibitor and refill) and hope that gets most of the flux etc out.

You can use a hose to siphon the crud out of the F & E rather than drain it into the system. It can be one of the most satisfying plumbing tasks.
 
I think I have found the flow and return pipes to and from the boiler and these are 22mm would this be right?

Could I tee straight from these and then reduce the pipe down to 15mm. I will be using plastic pipe and fittings, this will not be on display its just for my fish room.
 
You can get 22-15-22 saves a joint...do not put plastic too close to the boiler...sounds like a great plan...how old is the centralheating
system ...if old beware of 3/4 inch pipe looks like 22mm but you would need 3/4 t
centralheatking
 
Perfect thanks, copper it is. The flow and returns are running around the top of the cieling so I will run the pipe work down from the top to the rad valves. Which end of the rad valves corrospond with which flow of pipe?
 
Ian Auckland said:
Perfect thanks, copper it is. The flow and returns are running around the top of the cieling so I will run the pipe work down from the top to the rad valves. Which end of the rad valves corrospond with which flow of pipe?
Click to expand...
just use lockshields and it does not matter, if wasting dosh on trv then the pipe that heats up first is the flow
centralheatking
 
Don’t tee into the boiler primary’s else you will get the rad coming on with the hot water
 
Ian Auckland said:
When I put the heating on the first pipe to heat up out the the two 22mm is the flow out and the other is the return?
Click to expand...

Does said pipes get hot when the hot water is on ?
 
In short if they heat up when either heating or hot water is on or both these are the pipes direct from your boiler

If you install the rad on these you will have it heating up anytime the boiler is on

Best to find the heating circuits even if it’s 15mm
 
ShaunCorbs said:
In short if they heat up when either heating or hot water is on or both these are the pipes direct from your boiler

If you install the rad on these you will have it heating up anytime the boiler is on

Best to find the heating circuits even if it’s 15mm[/QUOT

ShaunCorbs said:
In short if they heat up when either heating or hot water is on or both these are the pipes direct from your boiler

If you install the rad on these you will have it heating up anytime the boiler is on

Best to find the heating circuits even if it’s 15mm
Click to expand...

Thanks. Where would you normally find the heating circuit?
Click to expand...
 
In your opion.

I'm doing research and learning and asking questions. I understand there is a heating circuit and hot water circuit so there must be a manifold that diverts the hotwater to the Rads. I've re read my question above and yes it sound dumb.
 
I also understand why you cant tap in to the boilers main supplies and you need to tap into the heating circuit only or it will be heated by both hotwater supply and heating supply. It makes sense. What I meant by question where my cylinder is would there be a manifold there where it diverts hotwater to the heating system?
 
Ian it may be wise to phone a local plumber and explain what you want to do, pay him £30 to come and look at your system and point you in the right direction.

I have done this for people in the past, I like it when people try to help themselves rather than just get someone in for every little job.

Then you have someone who’s seen it on your side if you get stuck ( no reason you will), and if the worst comes to the worst they can sort it for you.

Good luck
 
Ben-gee said:
Ian it may be wise to phone a local plumber and explain what you want to do, pay him £30 to come and look at your system and point you in the right direction.

I have done this for people in the past, I like it when people try to help themselves rather than just get someone in for every little job.

Then you have someone who’s seen it on your side if you get stuck ( no reason you will), and if the worst comes to the worst they can sort it for you.

Good luck
Click to expand...
My first hour's £45.00, but not a bad idea otherwise. The OP seems to be researching how a heating system is plumbed and may be able to work out if it's S plan or Y plan (or C, W, etc plan), but some people are able to look at a mess of pipework and make sense of it and others really struggle. But obviously it's easier to identify if you do this every day.
 
Ric2013 said:
My first hour's £45.00, but not a bad idea otherwise. The OP seems to be researching how a heating system is plumbed and may be able to work out if it's S plan or Y plan (or C, W, etc plan), but some people are able to look at a mess of pipework and make sense of it and others really struggle. But obviously it's easier to identify if you do this every day.
Click to expand...
Are you Plumbing only?
 
DuncanM said:
Are you sure they are heating pipes and not water. Where are your port valve/s? Near tank or pump? Brass body with a wee box on top. This will give you a better idea.
Click to expand...

They certainly were not
DuncanM said:
Are you sure they are heating pipes and not water. Where are your port valve/s? Near tank or pump? Brass body with a wee box on top. This will give you a better idea.
Click to expand...

There was no heat to them when the hot water was on. I will take some pics tomorrow and up load.
 
That’s good least you know now
 
If your confident yes just need to make sure you connect them up right if your fitting trvs eg flow to trv etc
 
Pic of boiler please and said pipes
 
ShaunCorbs said:
Pic of boiler please and said pipes
Click to expand...

20190730_234858.jpg


20190730_234901.jpg


20190730_234938.jpg
 
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