Aqualisa Quartz 9.5kw Electric Shower - Only getting cold water?

[everson]

Hello All,

New to the forum so apologies if do any faux pas. But I have an Aqalisa Electric Quartz Shower 9.5kw (8 years old) and currently it is only giving out cold water regardless of where the temperature control is placed, the only difference is the more you move to the dial to the cold setting , you get more pressure.

Little back story, about a month ago it was struggling to turn on. You would press the on button and it would illuminate for a split second and then turn off. I replaced the front cover (with built in switch mother board) and that seem to resolve the problem, but now a month later this issue has arisen. Are they linked or is it just coincidence?

via Youtube I have checked the TCO and getting continuity and also checked the heating element and getting continuity. The trouble shooting manual states possible of "second stage thermal trip operated" can anyone tell me what this is?

thank you any help appreciated.

 

[fowlerboi]

I had an issue one a little while ago and after looking at the cost of replacement parts I just stuck a new engine in, it just wasn't worth the faff.

Aqualisa Replacement Quartz Electric Shower Engine - 9.5kw 435902

Not quite what you are looking for? Click here to view the Aqualisa Quartz Electric Shower Range. The Aqualisa 435902 is part of the product range available to buy online at Trading Depot.

www.tradingdepot.co.uk

 

[everson]

Thank you for getting back to me. Whilst I hear what your saying. My want is to try diagnose first before throwing parts at it. These showers were put in as standard at the new build site I am at and haven spoken with some neighbours they have had it replaced 2-3 times (seems like I had a lucky one). But if I was to replace it and it went again within 6 months to a year say, I would always be thinking is it just rubbish Aqualisa unit or is there something more sinister at work causing it to fail. It's the suddenly fail of this part after changing the front cover that also gets me as it is having me back and fourth to the above. Is it just unlucky, poor Aqualisa unit or is there something bigger at play.

 

[fowlerboi]

Thats just electric showers I'm afraid, they fail. Those Aqualisa quartz are pretty bad for it though but they will come with a 2 year warranty. 8 years out of it is about right

 

[everson]

Thats just electric showers I'm afraid, they fail. Those Aqualisa quartz are pretty bad for it though but they will come with a 2 year warranty. 8 years out of it is about right

View attachment 85083

Thanks for this. in regards to the "Second stage thermal trip" shown in your image , is this Aqualis's jargon for a TCO? or is it something else? I am intrigued to see what it is. Is it visible in my pictures?

 

[Deleted member 120897]

You don’t test for continuity on the heating element, you test for a resistance reading. I would also check the shower feed for correct voltage.

 

[fowlerboi]

I completely missed you wrote continuity. If you're not capable of testing the circuit safely I would get someone in. Don't risk killing your family if you're unsure on how to work on electrics.

 

[everson]

Yes that is what I did I would have to do again now as I forget the readings i got , but I had it on ohms with the audible noise on, just a habit of saying continuity . Can confirms the resistance ratings you should expect to see for correct operation?

 

[everson]

I completely missed you wrote continuity. If you're not capable of testing the circuit safely I would get someone in. Don't risk killing your family if you're unsure on how to work on electrics.

Yes I understand what your saying but no this wa as just a means of habit talk, abit like when you say nut to mean a bolt lol

 

[Deleted member 120897]

Continuity uses the buzzer, so use just the ohms setting

 

[ShaunCorbs]

Can I ask why not just change the shower as it’s 20 year old etc ?

 

[everson]

Can I ask why not just change the shower as it’s 20 year old etc ?

Hey Shaun, I hear what your saying. The shower is 8 years old, but its just how it work. I am not a fan of throwing parts at a thing without diagnosing it. So hence why all the test, I ideally would like to know what went wrong for future testing and diagnosis.

 

[everson]

Continuity uses the buzzer, so use just the ohms setting

So I ordered a new shower engine and carried out some tests:

Heating Element Resistance Tests: NEW ENGINE:
Positive to Positive- .023 ohms.
Negative Bar to Positive- .012
Negative Bar to Positive (lower pin)- .010
Negative Bar to Negative Bar - .000

TCO Continuity Test: NEW ENGINE:
0.01 - With Aubile bell.

Voltage Test: OLD ENGINE
240V from Live - Earth
240v from Live - Neutral

Now these numbers pretty much match to the old faulty unit. So I take it as two outcomes.
1) The new engine is faulty fresh out the box.
2) the "second stage thermal trip" is another item somewhere built into Engine and is not serviceable or testable and swapping out whole shower is only option.

 

[everson]

So not to be that person who does not come back and tell you where things stand. I replaced the old shower.for a.like for like model that I ordered detailed above. The shower is now up and running again. Thanks to all who chimed in with some.help. thank you