Cast iron soil pipe jointing method

[Deleted member 96286]

Hello Cailean,

I have often used `PC4` Cold Caulking Compound - not on full Stacks but where I just had a couple of joints - for example where I was installing a 6ft length of Cast Iron pipe and an Access pipe at the bottom of a Plastic Soil or Rainwater Stack.

This would have been in either narrow access paths between Buildings or where a narrow access road for vehicles - some which had no pavement adjacent the bottom of the Stack - the Cast Iron section being more robust than Plastic.

Rather than bring the `Full Lead Melting & Pouring Kit` for just 2 joints I would use `PC4` at the connections to the Access pipe and the Cast to Plastic Cast Iron Adapter.

When I first used it many Years ago [40+] I wonder if it was `Asbestos Free` then ?

You are right about the Plumbing `Traditional Skills` not being taught at Colleges and the fact that there are plenty of Buildings where Cast Iron Stacks and Roofing Leadwork etc. still exist and need Plumbers capable of working skilfully on them.

I remember many years ago when `Nuralite` was first brought to market as a cheaper alternative to Lead for Flat Roofing, Flashings, Capping Brickwork, Structural Concrete etc.

It was stated that `Any Plumber could fit the product using their existing Leadwork skills and Tools`.

While the Roofing sheet was a flexible membrane type of material the `Board` was as the word suggests - `as stiff as a board` and not at all easy to work with regarding `Folding & Creasing` plus sticking it down in the case of Cappings and Flashings - FAR from `just as easy as working with Lead` !

I only worked with it on one Site where I was Capping parapet walls and installing Flashings - using Nuralite for the Capping on that Site was ridiculous as Capping stones would have been far more effective for `Weathering` and much better looking.

I hated working with it as the Black `Tar like` Adhesive was almost impossible to get off your hands and clothes and there were no `Surgical` / Latex gloves readily available to buy in those days - because of precise bending of the Nuralite sheet material `Rigger gloves` or similar could not be worn regarding your hands dexterity.

The Adhesive really did damage your hands because it got well `ground in` as did the attempts to clean it off using Diesel !

`The Good Old Days` ?

EDIT: I just looked for `Nuralite UK` online and found that the Company had ceased trading in 1998 - that was probably about 18 years after I had used it as described above.

Having used it I would not have been surprised to find that the Nuralite Board did not catch on in the UK to `replace Lead for Flashings etc.` - but I am surprised to find that Nuralite products are very well used in the New Zealand Construction / Roofing Industry and probably Australia.

Chris

Hi Chris, I remember Nuralite well and the big tin of Number 10 tar like adhesive that got everywhere. I hated working with it and half of Glasgow had it installed in the 80's during the roof renovations. I remember even going out to the pub at night with my hands still jet black, because I couldn't get the stuff off and people giving me funny looks as though I didn't wash myself! Nuralite itself was a crap product. I remember splitting the edges of it to make feathered joints, and burning the tips of my fingers. However I still do lead work and lead burning. Our cities here in Scotland still have many Victorian era buildings and also grade A listed buildings, so everything has to go back the same.

The original PC4 was pure asbestos cement rope. When you opened the tin, all the asbestos dust flew up in your face and no one thought anything about it. All of a sudden, one year it became PC4AF, with "AF" meaning asbestos free. A similar lack of safety was the norm when we worked on old boilers back then, as they were lined with white asbestos.

As to the OP, don't use molten lead mate, unless it's strictly specified. This is something that is bloody dangerous to work with, even breathing in the fumes is hazardous and something that you need a bit of training to get right. Use PC4AF and follow the instructions on the tin. It's safe as houses and gives a superb joint.

 

[Deleted member 96286]

3.125KG PC4AF Cold Caulking Compound

 

[Sharp Point]

Guess what I’m doing today?

 

[ShaunCorbs]

Have fun

 

[Sharp Point]

Have fun

It’s not! Sat on some scaffolding and this wind is making my frozen to the core AND I’ve come down with a stinker of a cold

 

[rpm]

Guess what I’m doing today?

View attachment 35058

Hanging yourself?

 

[Sharp Point]

Hanging yourself?

Yes, the thought of maybe another referendum and we vote again to stay....

 

[Ric2013]

Guess what I’m doing today?

View attachment 35058

Well jealous!

 

[Sharp Point]

I bottled out of using lead and gone for the ct1 sealant way of capping off. I would’ve liked to of poured a joint, but the expense of sourcing the equipment and knowing I’ll never probably do one again, putme off.
I followed the method from a Tuscan brochure.

 

[Ric2013]

To be honest, if the BCO won't accept a puttied and painted seal as an acceptable joint in the event that the lead is not 100% airtight, I think that's unreasonable.

As the lead or cord will keep the joint permanently positioned so the putty is less likely to fall out, and the putty or sealant will hold well for at least as long as a proprietary rubber seal if applied properly. Ever tried dismantling a cast iron rainwater pipe that's held together by putty? I have, and it ain't easy!

 

[ShaunCorbs]

Chicken

Please say you used black ct1 ?

 

[Chalked]

To lead them. All you need is scrap lead, a metal tin ( I use a decorators meatball paint tin) melt it and pour in. Holds the joint so tight. Your method will be ok,but when doing an offset at the top you will have nothing to hold it.

 

[Sharp Point]

Chicken

Please say you used black ct1 ?

Nope, actually grey. I asked the customer to get me black, but the merchants were running low, So he came back with 1 black and 3 grey, the first three joints will be black and the rest grey.
Don’t ask... he’s so impatient

 

[Sharp Point]

To lead them. All you need is scrap lead, a metal tin ( I use a decorators meatball paint tin) melt it and pour in. Holds the joint so tight. Your method will be ok,but when doing an offset at the top you will have nothing to hold it.

I haven’t considered that part yet lol, guess I best start getting some stuff together then