P
phill bri
Hi there, please help dont have a clue how to set this up. Ive recently installed a complete new central heating system in my house myself. The system is up and running and works okay but I feel it could work alot better if it were setup properly. Im not a plumber and really understand how parts of the system work. I know the radiators need balanced, the circulation pump needs setup properly, as does the automatic bypass valve etc.
However im not sure where or which component to set up first or how they might need re-adjusted as i adjust the rest of the system. So im after some help of how to set things up please.
Details of system:
1930's 2 double bedroom house, 1 medium living room (rad), large kitchen diner (underfloor heating), upstairs large bathroom with towel rad, all rooms with radiators apart from kitchen with UFH. Underfloor heating system connects to central heating circuit like a radiator would, has a blending valve to set temperature, also a grundfos circulation pump. UFH system also has a temperature sensor so pump on comes on when pipe temperature achieved.
The house is due to have a extension with a further 2 bedrooms and games room (if you were thinking boiler maybe a bit big atm.
Worcester greenstar danesmoor utility Regular 18/25 oil boiler. fitted on ground floor (floor standing boiler) open vented regular boiler
Honeywell DU144 automatic bypass valve fitted between flow & return, instructions say to refer to table with boiler min flow requirement & pump curves for pump head, however i cant find this information? how do you work out pump head?
Vented indirect hot water cylinder (not yet heated by boiler, awaiting larger tank before connecting up, pipework currently isolated between mid position valve & tank inc return of course
Worcester magnetic filter fitted just before circulation pump which is just before boiler
Wilo -Yonos PICO 25/1-6 circulation pump fitted to boiler return pipe, between magnetic filter & boiler (always been advised to fit pumps to return pipe by old school plumbers, as pumps last longer due to less heat.) This is one of those differential pressure pumps that can be set to either variable or constant & both at different speeds.
All rads have TRV's & lockshields apart from towel rad in bathroom which just has manual valves.
Honeywell T6r smart thermostsat programmer
Honeywell V4073A MID position valve
Honeywell 10 way connection block
everything wired up and working apart from cylinder stat, will wire this up when cylinder changed out. The Hw system is turned of via programmer.
Rads and system all bled, rads all get nice and hot.
Boiler is on ground floor, magnetic filter and circulation pump next to it, bypass valve & mid position valve in airing cupboard with cylinder, header tanks in loft as vented system, pipework runs in 22mm circuit in ceiling with 15mm outlets & returns to radiators, inc underfloor heating.
I plan on balancing rads with my heat gun, i could also use this to see boiler flow & return temperatures, if thats helpful
Circulation pump wired into boiler, pump comes on with boiler, do I need pump overun?? (boiler manual states nothing on this.)
Current noticable problems:
biggest noticable problems - Boiler seems to be what id say is cycling, boiler doesnt run until the room stat reaches demanded temperature, will demand 21 & boiler will cut out when only 17 or 18c, a few minutes later boiler will re-start itself. The house will eventually reach temperature but shouldnt the boiler run untill temperature is reached? No ofset on stat either.
Now ive wired it exactly how all manuals state and the stat on the boiler itself is set to max. Could this be the boiler stat taking control or is the water in the boiler reached its max temp and stopping boiler? water is then cooling an then boiler comes back on? or is it a flow problem, water not moving through boiler fast enough or moving through rads too quick.
Other problem:
TRV's whine, whinning goes if you move trv, too much pressure from pump? bypass valve incorrectly set? (im overwhelmed as to what to adjust first and how it might effect other things.
UFH seems to have hot spots, is that normal? no cold spots
Sounds like a disaster when I read it back! im sure it just needs a good solid intial setup and then little fine tweeks.
hope you guys can help.
thanks
However im not sure where or which component to set up first or how they might need re-adjusted as i adjust the rest of the system. So im after some help of how to set things up please.
Details of system:
1930's 2 double bedroom house, 1 medium living room (rad), large kitchen diner (underfloor heating), upstairs large bathroom with towel rad, all rooms with radiators apart from kitchen with UFH. Underfloor heating system connects to central heating circuit like a radiator would, has a blending valve to set temperature, also a grundfos circulation pump. UFH system also has a temperature sensor so pump on comes on when pipe temperature achieved.
The house is due to have a extension with a further 2 bedrooms and games room (if you were thinking boiler maybe a bit big atm.
Worcester greenstar danesmoor utility Regular 18/25 oil boiler. fitted on ground floor (floor standing boiler) open vented regular boiler
Honeywell DU144 automatic bypass valve fitted between flow & return, instructions say to refer to table with boiler min flow requirement & pump curves for pump head, however i cant find this information? how do you work out pump head?
Vented indirect hot water cylinder (not yet heated by boiler, awaiting larger tank before connecting up, pipework currently isolated between mid position valve & tank inc return of course
Worcester magnetic filter fitted just before circulation pump which is just before boiler
Wilo -Yonos PICO 25/1-6 circulation pump fitted to boiler return pipe, between magnetic filter & boiler (always been advised to fit pumps to return pipe by old school plumbers, as pumps last longer due to less heat.) This is one of those differential pressure pumps that can be set to either variable or constant & both at different speeds.
All rads have TRV's & lockshields apart from towel rad in bathroom which just has manual valves.
Honeywell T6r smart thermostsat programmer
Honeywell V4073A MID position valve
Honeywell 10 way connection block
everything wired up and working apart from cylinder stat, will wire this up when cylinder changed out. The Hw system is turned of via programmer.
Rads and system all bled, rads all get nice and hot.
Boiler is on ground floor, magnetic filter and circulation pump next to it, bypass valve & mid position valve in airing cupboard with cylinder, header tanks in loft as vented system, pipework runs in 22mm circuit in ceiling with 15mm outlets & returns to radiators, inc underfloor heating.
I plan on balancing rads with my heat gun, i could also use this to see boiler flow & return temperatures, if thats helpful
Circulation pump wired into boiler, pump comes on with boiler, do I need pump overun?? (boiler manual states nothing on this.)
Current noticable problems:
biggest noticable problems - Boiler seems to be what id say is cycling, boiler doesnt run until the room stat reaches demanded temperature, will demand 21 & boiler will cut out when only 17 or 18c, a few minutes later boiler will re-start itself. The house will eventually reach temperature but shouldnt the boiler run untill temperature is reached? No ofset on stat either.
Now ive wired it exactly how all manuals state and the stat on the boiler itself is set to max. Could this be the boiler stat taking control or is the water in the boiler reached its max temp and stopping boiler? water is then cooling an then boiler comes back on? or is it a flow problem, water not moving through boiler fast enough or moving through rads too quick.
Other problem:
TRV's whine, whinning goes if you move trv, too much pressure from pump? bypass valve incorrectly set? (im overwhelmed as to what to adjust first and how it might effect other things.
UFH seems to have hot spots, is that normal? no cold spots
Sounds like a disaster when I read it back! im sure it just needs a good solid intial setup and then little fine tweeks.
hope you guys can help.
thanks
