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Same principal when tiling a bathroom Kyle , put your cutter on it saves you bending down all the time
 
Same principal when tiling a bathroom Kyle , put your cutter on it saves you bending down all the time

I always put my cutter on top of its case, on top of my hop up.

For tiling above a bath, get a bit of old worktop/ply with a bit of nice soft carpet stuck to it.
 
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get the snazzy bosch hole saw sets with the quick release arbor.

as they wear out you can take out the quick release section off the old holesaw and put on most other brands !!
the quick functionality of the quick release with any hole saw

*looks online for new starret hole saws to fit his bosch arbor*
 
I keep a small piece of 9mm ply about 800mm x 400mm in the van.

I wrap it in a dust sheet and lay it across a bath when working on taps or showers. The same for a basin when changing taps and washers.


Stops you from dropping a spanner and damaging things and can slide under your toolboxes in van so doesn't take up any room.
this reminded me always put the plug in or pop up down when working on tapssaves taking the trap of to find the screw or nut youve dropped in the basin
 
Haven't read all the thread so I might be repeating what someone has already posted but, I always keep a couple of spare test nipples, old rad air vents and the top off a thumb screw air vent
I once dropped a thumb screw air vent cap whilst filling (on my own) and couldn't find it anywhere, ended up tying my jumper around it while I ran back to the drain off........
Lesson learnt
 
When removing things like monobloc taps keep backing plate/washer and on CH pump keep bleed screw. You can guarantee they will find the only hole if dropped....never to be seen again !
 
Try to plan ahead and have a second way of getting the job finished before you even start if you get part way through the job and isn't going according to plan !
 
Window fitters use about a hundred mastic tubes per window....ask them for a handful of left over unused nozzles, they have hundreds of them, very useful for us.
 
Service engineer mate of mine showed me this tip today.

for boiler expansion vessel replacement or testing ( with braded hose) he uses a brake pipe clamp to clamp the flexi hose, then replace vessel or test without draining the boiler or system.

one of these.
 

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Service engineer mate of mine showed me this tip today.

for boiler expansion vessel replacement or testing ( with braded hose) he uses a brake pipe clamp to clamp the flexi hose, then replace vessel or test without draining the boiler or system.

one of these.

That is genius, unless it could damage the line?
 
Service engineer mate of mine showed me this tip today.

for boiler expansion vessel replacement or testing ( with braded hose) he uses a brake pipe clamp to clamp the flexi hose, then replace vessel or test without draining the boiler or system.

one of these.

Not sure I like the idea of crushing a braided hose. Pinching the hose alone wont allow you to test the expansion vessel unless you also detach the hose before testing the charge. Flexible break hoses are quite different to braided plumbing hoses. You can buy schrader valve extensions from truck supply stores which can make connecting to concealed valves easier. They are intended for lorries with double wheels each axle end to allow the inner wheel valve to be reached from the outer wheel but they work great for expansion vessels.
 
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