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anz

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Plumber
Gas Engineer
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Got an Ideal isar, blank display, not working at all, checked all the usual, power getting to boiler, etc.

Usual suspect pcb, changed both, no change fault still same.

Before me customer had one of them handyman plumber dudes to have a look, apparently it was working and showing a fault code, and then he touched it and blew something and ran off.

I don't know what he's done, I've checked wiring, etc

Anyone any ideas, for what it might be? Maybe something obvious I've missed.
 
I had this once it was the spark generator playing up some how

Interesting, that's something I wouldn't have suspected at all.

I'll take a look into it.
 
Me either it was a guy in suppliers who mentioned it and I thought why not give it a try. Never had it again nor heard anyone else with it.
 
control pcb connector lead, if the isar has one loose/faulty, cant remember ideal models as i tend to avoid the blighters, as all to often the new pcb is also knackered!!
 
have you plugged the user control pcb straight onto the main board to ensure the link cable is not damaged?
 
Have you checked to make sure the power coming in is the correct polarity? Has the fuse on the board? Has it tripped the main fuse board?
 
Did you check your fan before installing the new pcb as i believe when the fan goes on these it can blow the pcb and then when installing a new pcb with the faulty fan still connected it will instantly blow the new pcb.
 
had the fan blow the pcb more than once always disc the fan and check for short often caused by water ingress from flue
 
I checked the fan, that was good.
Display board connector ok.
Thinking about it now, I'm thinking he might have got the wires mixed up on the pcb.

As it is, the ones that go to the power button are on the top left when it is folded up, but could also go at the bottom, anyone know for sure which is the right one?
 
the only multiplugs you can cock up and fit to the wrong ones are the main power in (front of the pcb on the left) and the loom to the power switch (bottom left).

The wires going into the main power (top left of pcb) should be brown, blue and black (3 wires into a 4 pin multiplug).
The wires from the switch (bottom) should be black and red again in a 4 pin multiplug.


Also silly point but make sure the main power plug (black 5 pin) is pushed fully home as if its the old M series the suppressor dislodges it when the pcb is put in the upright position.
 
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I'm sure the gas valve connection can be plugged in the wrong way around on these models. Not that this would cause the issues your having!

if I was you, I would get your multimeter out and start from the beginning of the power supply and work your way through.

Start with fused spur, then power plug, then power harness to pcb, fuse on pcb, wire harness to control panel switch etc

there's gotta be a break somewhere along the main power supply
 
Update: Problem solved.

The multiplugs were mixed up, as armourer says.

Once I put these right, the boiler turned on, old PCB was ok.

Original fault was flashing HF. This is a flame sensing probe problem.

The wire coming from the probe had melted on to the heat exchanger, causing the fault. Took this off, checked the wire, reinsulated it and boilers up and running.

So in the end no parts used, only wish I'd been called first time, before someone else messed with it. Would have saved a lot of time.


Thanks to everyone for their help.
 
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