Megaflo Tundish

[Steveo0189]

Hi. been called to a job with a leaking tundish, never touch these things and wondered how to go about changing it. Looks like 2 22ml comp fittings either end of the tundish, is it just a case of undoing both ends and fitting new Tundish or is there a procedure with shutting of valves etc. would app a response as the leak is enough to fill a cup or two a day. Ta chaps

 

[REDSAW]

just change it,
10 minuite job.lol

 

[wnjswozo]

you need to be qualified to work on unvented,you need to be able to see if its installed properly,a tundish is a two min job to replace

 

[Steveo0189]

Thanks matey, just checking to make sure, didnt want to flood the place!!

 

[prs1]

if it passing hot water through tundish its likley the ex bubble will need replenishing.
if its passing cold could need a new pressure relief valve or be a problem with the combination set.
basic service as per MI may be due!
hope this helps
paul.
you may even get away with resealing tundish if its not damaged.

as allready said must be qualified to work on these unvented units!

 

[Steveo0189]

Yeah, i realise the implications of the qualifications etc, would'nt touch these as a rule, i am a heating engineer but not with the unvented side of things.....looked a simple swap but as mentioned not 100% on isolating valves etc. Ta

 

[Puddle]

Hi. been called to a job with a leaking tundish, never touch these things and wondered how to go about changing it. Looks like 2 22ml comp fittings either end of the tundish, is it just a case of undoing both ends and fitting new Tundish or is there a procedure with shutting of valves etc. would app a response as the leak is enough to fill a cup or two a day. Ta chaps

The tundish is not leaking,the tundish is just there to give a visual sign of any leakage from safety valves leaking

as said cylinder may require re priming,instruction should be on the side of cylinder
if any thing else would advise passing on to a more qualified person

 

[WHPES]

If you mean the tundish is overflowing, the pipe past the tundish is probably blocked with debris. You need to clean it out through to where it discharges outside. Use a length of wire.

If the tundish is leaking because it has split at the bottom due to misalignment of the pipework, you need to fix the original problem or it will happen again.

Otherwise as the previous poster says, if it is just that you can see water passing through the tundish, then there is nothing wrong with it, rather there is a problem further upstream, in which case you shouldn't touch this unless you are qualified.

 

[nick99]

Do you have to be qualified to fit say a 10L undersink water heater (unvented)? Some posts state anything under 15L in size you don't need to be qualified others state over 15L you have to be certified. Different plumbers are stating different quotes, im left confused.
Any reliable posts would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks guys.

 

[mickie]

changing a tundish is hardly messing on with the tanks/boilers sefety as long as all he is doing it changing a tundish i dont see a problem

 

[tackleburger]

How can a tundish be leaking? It should be dry if there is water anywhere near it that needs fixing. If it is not passing the water it may need attention in addition to the problem you must fix the cause of the water flow first, then worry about the tundish G3 ticket is required.

 

[PlumbBobBob]

this post is old.

 

[mickie]

not any more !

 

[nick99]

I was asking if your fitting the new undersink system if you have to be certified when fitting a 10lL undersink (unvented)? Not just changing a tundish. Thanks

 

[diamondgas]

nick99 - Can you identify the components of something unvented? Know how they are supose to be installed? And know when they've been installed incorrectly? If something went wrong and a person was hurt, regardless of fault, would you be able to prove compitence?

If you can answer yes to all, and probably more, of the above then go ahead. Otherwise G3 or not I'd leave well alone!

 

[SimonG]

We had this one before. G3 is for above 15 litres. 15 and under you don't need G3 but you do need to follow the instructions around pressure relief, check valve, expansion and first draw off points.

 

[BLOD]

Since 2010 G3 is for all hot water storage - vented & unvented.

 

[SimonG]

Not applicable for 15 litre and under, should be, but isn't.

 

[BLOD]

Maybe I've misunderstood it, but the link below clearly states G3 now covers all hot water storage vented & unvented.

Amendments to Part G of the Building Regulations

 

[SimonG]

I stand corrected, section 3.19 of document G3 " Water heaters with a capacity of 15 litres or less that have appropriate safety devices for temperature and pressure will generally satisfy the requirements set out in G3(3)."

Good call Blod.

 

[dontknowitall]

Bloomin red tape ...

 

[mickie]

its all over this site..

 

[SimonG]

Bloomin red tape ...

It's not so much the red tap as the ambiguity of the statement in the G3 regs they have a set of regs upto 500 litres but then make special mention of under 15 litres. So why don't the 15 litre and under come under the upto 500 litres.

 

[PlumbBobBob]

they couldn't be bothered to rewrite all of the regulations and just changed the parts that had changed.

 

[mickie]

15 litres burting isnt going to bring a house down

 

[SimonG]

Sounds like a challenge for the Mythbusters!

 

[mickie]

YouTube - ‪MythBusters - Exploding Water Heater‬‏

cant find a small 15litre one being blown up

 

[GrahamM]

15 litres burting isnt going to bring a house down

It might not bring the house down, but if installed incorrectly it still has the potential to become a pressure cooker and burn your skin off if it was breached suddenly.
At 3bar pressure the boiling point is approx. 150°C. If that is suddenly vented to atmosphere it will instantly turn to steam.

 

[leakeee]

if water is even getting to the tundish it means you got problems. not might be a big one but an issue that should be looked at.